DIY stand frame slightly uneven

[dbleoh7]

So I made a standard DIY stand frame that is 48" x 18 " x 36" (L x W x H). I just measured every corner and they're not exact... Two are 36", one is 36 1/16" and one is 35 7/8". The short and long ones are next to each other, 48" apart. Is this going to be a big deal? Is there a way to even it out? I used wood glue so there's no undoing it that I'm aware of... I'm going to be putting a nice plywood over it, staining it and painting it.

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

Just shim up before putting the top on. Simple.

 

[ichthyogeek]

Well, the one that is 36 1/16", I bet you could sand down (or cut) to 36". And then there are these things that I think are called shims? You stick them under one of the feet of the stand to correct for balance. They're like, tiny wood blocks.

You might also be able to get away with using some sort of board (like plywood) that will help even things out as well.

 

[dbleoh7]

Just shim up before putting the top on. Simple.

So you're saying put a shim on top of the short corner before I put on the plywood top? Wouldn't I have to shim gradually across the entire length of the stand so that the weight is evenly distributed
?

 

[K7BMG]

What tank are you putting on the stand?

Glass or Acrylic?

If it is a rimmed tank like an Aquean or other tank that has a plastic rim wrapped around the top and bottom of the tank, you have a lot more leeway.
If Acrylic no wories at all.

Either way the bigest concern is level.
You can shim the stand between the floor and the stand with PLASTIC shilms.
All the wood should be coated in a water sealer as it will be exposed to salt water.

Once level and in ace make sure the level you use is at least a 48 inch.
Make sure the stand is flat and parallel with the level.
If there is a dip or rise in the wood do your best to sand it flat.
Then use a sheet of foam cut to size.
The foam can be bought at all big box construction stores and or some local hardware stores.
1/2 inch thick will do.
You dont want the stuff that breaks apart and used for packagees.
Use the stiffer insulation board foam.
This will fill in any SLIGHT gaps or rised in the wood.

 

[dbleoh7]

What tank are you putting on the stand?

Glass or Acrylic?

If it is a rimmed tank like an Aquean or other tank that has a plastic rim wrapped around the top and bottom of the tank, you have a lot more leeway.
If Acrylic no wories at all.

Either way the bigest concern is level.
You can shim the stand between the floor and the stand with PLASTIC shilms.
All the wood should be coated in a water sealer as it will be exposed to salt water.

Once level and in ace make sure the level you use is at least a 48 inch.
Make sure the stand is flat and parallel with the level.
If there is a dip or rise in the wood do your best to sand it flat.
Then use a sheet of foam cut to size.
The foam can be bought at all big box construction stores and or some local hardware stores.
1/2 inch thick will do.
You dont want the stuff that breaks apart and used for packagees.
Use the stiffer insulation board foam.
This will fill in any SLIGHT gaps or rised in the wood.

Rimless low iron glass aquarium. 50 gallons - 48 x 18 x 14. Definitely frustrated for not measuring this out prior to glue setting. I'm not sure how I'll be able to put plywood on top and around it since it's kind of uneven

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

Just even it up. What am I missing here? The top isn’t on yet. Make all the legs the same via shim or sanding.

 

[dbleoh7]

Just even it up. What am I missing here? The top isn’t on yet. Make all the legs the same via shim or sanding.

It's my first DIY stand so I'm probably just stressing about it. Just don't want to get to the final product and then have to scrap it because it's terrible.

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

Just make sure your legs are the same height. The tank will be on the top, which is smooth. It will provide a level of flex as well, then you will probably have a yoga mat or equivalent under tank for imperfection and micro-leveling. I think you will be fine. I would lay the top on and shim it where you want it with a bit of weight on it and fasten her down. Or, as suggested, sand the other leg down. Either way. You will be fine.

 

[dbleoh7]

This is the stand so sanding it will be a pain since I'll have to sand it as like a gradient from the longer leg to the shorter ones

 

[GK3]

This is the stand so sanding it will be a pain since I'll have to sand it as like a gradient from the longer leg to the shorter ones

Ok so are you saying the vertical legs aren’t even or are you saying the height to horizontal board the plywood would sit on isn’t even? If it’s the first one, it doesn’t matter, if it’s the second one I would so one of two things:

1. Take the screw out, grab one end of the board and pull to pop the glue. Then even out and redo. You may have to sand some glue. If used nails, that’s a bit harder.

2. shims as others have said. Just make sure it is properly shimed. If you don’t put enough of that actual shim under the load, then eventually the load will just start to squash or crack your shim.

 

[Aggro]

So you're saying put a shim on top of the short corner before I put on the plywood top? Wouldn't I have to shim gradually across the entire length of the stand so that the weight is evenly distributed
?

Don’t shim under the plywood top with the weight it’ll create a pressure point on that spot best bet is to shim the bottom of legs. Use composite shims

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

It won’t create a pressure point through 3/4” plywood.

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

Your stand might need some tweaking. It will probably work, don’t get me wrong, but your load bearing rim is in shear. The columns aren’t supporting the sides as much as they could be... are those 1x4? Just curious.

 

[Aggro]

It won’t create a pressure point through 3/4” plywood.

That’s 400+ pounds sitting ontop over time the potential for creating that pressure is there especially with it being tweaked and different measurements but honestly to the OP that’s the least of tour worries right now with using 1” material it’s fine if that is being screwed to the plywood that skirts the stand giving it its rigidity right know your vertical studs are 1” from your ply tour going to be skirting it with the 1” year s going to bow.

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

Absolutely 0 chance there will be a pressure point. We will just have to disagree here which is fine, but I agree the stand has more pressing issues. It could be ok because the plywood up top will distribute the load, but I think the OP is going to run into bowing and lateral stability.... potentially. I over engineering stuff though. At the least I would screw and glue additional 1x4s to the columns

 

[Aggro]

Absolutely 0 chance there will be a pressure point. We will just have to disagree here which is fine, but I agree the stand has more pressing issues. It could be ok because the plywood up top will distribute the load, but I think the OP is going to run into bowing and lateral stability.... potentially. I over engineering stuff though. At the least I would screw and glue additional 1x4s to the columns

Ya he would need to glue another to the vertical stud like you’re saying so it will fit between the top and bottom frames. If it was 2x4 it would work but not 1x4. I over built my stand as well 5 ft and I had a total of 4 vertical on each long side.

 

[Tiki Reef Joshua]

Yea I’m in camp 2x4 at a minimum. Maybe scabbing another 1X solves the issue of height making our disagreement moot. He could cut all new supports and shim to the new (current longest) height. It would provide more surface area.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

Check your Floor, it may not be level where you are putting your tank at. Your uneven stand may level it out. I don’t like the looks of a tank that’s unlevel, as far as the water line goes, especially on rimless.

 

[Aggro]

Yea I’m in camp 2x4 at a minimum. Maybe scabbing another 1X solves the issue of height making our disagreement moot. He could cut all new supports and shim to the new (current longest) height. It would provide more surface area.

Ya but I’m guessing he glued everything as he went. As long as they’re screwed I say pull the screw and snake the gram down cut the studs down to the smaller measurements then put back together. Nothing a sluggo can’t fix as we say in the carpenter world over here in Washington lol