Do I need GFO?

Jakepen · Mar 13, 2016

Getting everything together, to start my fusion 30l. Will be running a ghost skimmer, and fill a reactor with carbon. Plan on changing 25% water weekly. Was wondering if I should get some GFO right now, will I necessarily need it? Will throwing it in a bag than in a chamber be enough?

Diesel · Mar 13, 2016

Nope no GFO yet or maybe never.
Why you think you need GFO?
Your tank need to be cycled first before you do a WC.
Test for ammonia and nitrite first when that is in check you switch to nitrate and Po4.

Jakepen · Mar 13, 2016

Diesel said:
Nope no GFO yet or maybe never.
Why you think you need GFO?
Your tank need to be cycled first before you do a WC.
Test for ammonia and nitrite first when that is in check you switch to nitrate and Po4.

Oh I don't mean now, by no means hah. I don't even have water in, than I understand the long cycle process. I just meant in the future, was wondering if it's critical in a algae free tank. Always see people running it. Was wondering if light feedings, and regular water changes would eliminate the need for GFO

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 13, 2016

You will typically need some way of exporting phosphate, and GFO is just one of many methods.

Jakepen · Mar 13, 2016

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
You will typically need some way of exporting phosphate, and GFO is just one of many methods.

Okay. Will GFO in a mesh bag do the trick? Or should I plan on mixing it in with my reactor.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Mar 14, 2016

It is best used in a method that forces water through it, and preferably in a reactor. The particles are pretty small, so a bag can just become a clump.

If you want to use a bag, I'd use larger media, like aluminum oxide which goes by numerous brand names such as Seachem Phosguard or Kent Phosphate sponge.

Jakepen · Mar 14, 2016

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
It is best used in a method that forces water through it, and preferably in a reactor. The particles are pretty small, so a bag can just become a clump.

If you want to use a bag, I'd use larger media, like aluminum oxide which goes by numerous brand names such as Seachem Phosguard or Kent Phosphate sponge.

I have a reactor, but I planned on running carbon in it. Should I instead run the GFO in it?

Diesel · Mar 14, 2016

Lets go back a little........... you have a fusion 30L or 30G?

Either way I would try your skimmer first and water changes before I jump on the GFO train.
Yes randy is right that you need some sort of phosphate export but GFO is IMO super aggressive.
Of course with the proper use of it you will come a long way.
But why not save here some $$$$ and go a long with a water change first.
It's easy enough to hook up Carbon and GFO but IMO not needed at all.
First get your tank wet and go a week or 4 through your cycle, while doing that test with a trusting test kit (not api) for ammonia, nitrite first and move over to the nitrate, phosphate and PH.
Good luck my friend.

Jakepen · Mar 14, 2016

Diesel said:
Lets go back a little........... you have a fusion 30L or 30G?

Either way I would try your skimmer first and water changes before I jump on the GFO train.
Yes randy is right that you need some sort of phosphate export but GFO is IMO super aggressive.
Of course with the proper use of it you will come a long way.
But why not save here some $$$$ and go a long with a water change first.
It's easy enough to hook up Carbon and GFO but IMO not needed at all.
First get your tank wet and go a week or 4 through your cycle, while doing that test with a trusting test kit (not api) for ammonia, nitrite first and move over to the nitrate, phosphate and PH.
Good luck my friend.

Fusion 30l. For test kits I have Hanna alk and phosphate, and Red Sea for the rest. I'm all for not having to use GFO, I'd like to avoid it with proper maintanance. The only reason I'm asking, is because I would like to know about it, before I start. That way if I do run into phosphate issues, I'll have knowledge on how to begin treating them. But yeah, I'm going to try running my tank for a while without them.

Jakepen · Mar 14, 2016

I'm sorry. It's a 30 gallon. But abbreviated 30l, the L standing for "long".

FlyinBryan · Mar 14, 2016

Run it on my 30g. When I didn't i had massive uncontrollable gha within days! Im just using the brs mini carbon/gfo and it's awesome. It helps as a buffer for those weeks you miss your weekly water change.

Kungpaoshizi · Mar 14, 2016

Easier to carbon dose. GFO is kinda old school anymore and it's a huge extra cost for the reactor and constantly buying media.
Check out nopox/reef energy, one of the easiest laid out systems for carbon dosing and feeding.

ReeferBob · Mar 14, 2016

GFO will need a reactor it clumps bad when just sitting there. Consider an algae scrubber instead they are very effective. But 25% water changes, starting with RO/DI and limiting feeding will go a long way to reducing excess nutrients. It is good to think of this now and get some ideas going. Algae control is a constant struggle.

Jakepen · Mar 14, 2016

ReeferBob said:
GFO will need a reactor it clumps bad when just sitting there. Consider an algae scrubber instead they are very effective. But 25% water changes, starting with RO/DI and limiting feeding will go a long way to reducing excess nutrients. It is good to think of this now and get some ideas going. Algae control is a constant struggle.

When you say algae scrubber, do you mean a magnet that cleans the glass?

ReeferBob · Mar 14, 2016

Jakepen said:
When you say algae scrubber, do you mean a magnet that cleans the glass?

No - It is a (usually) homemade device using PVC and needlepoint plastic frames along with a grow light to provide a place for algae to grow in your sump. Once established, algae will grow in this location and consume all the nutrients in your tank leaving it virtually algae free. It is a more natural solution to algae problems.

Jakepen · Mar 14, 2016

ReeferBob said:
No - It is a (usually) homemade device using PVC and needlepoint plastic frames along with a grow light to provide a place for algae to grow in your sump. Once established, algae will grow in this location and consume all the nutrients in your tank leaving it virtually algae free. It is a more natural solution to algae problems.

Interesting. Any threads on this anywhere? Is it basically a refugium than?