Do most anthias die from uronema or starvation?

My question was for miamireef.
I don't even acclimate more than temp acclimation.
In the tank it goes. I live life on the edge lol.
D
I'm a bit old school. I don't want the QT cops to come in on us. I don't do it myself, I trust my stores to do it for me and I don't pay much more for it.

Side note... My usual gig I deal with for fish recently rolled craps with a leopard wrasse. That bastid brought in flukes, 50 percent mortality over the past 2 weeks before I figured it out last friday. My gal was coming over to check the fish for me, one - two dead, daily. Came home to massive GHA and 10 less fish after traveling for work over a week.
 
I wonder if they pick up uronema at the LFS then it slowly kills them, possibly the stress of shipping could help it by stressing them and a stressed fish is often a weak fish. Just a thought.
That's how it was explained to me. Anthias in general don't ship well.
 
I don't even acclimate more than temp acclimation.
In the tank it goes. I live life on the edge lol.
D
This is what I do, and it’s one of the biggest reasons I try find fish that have been in the LFS for a week or longer. Obviously this isn’t always the case, if I saw a nice tilefish I’d probably snag it the instant I see it. I did this with a Flashing Tilefish - Which is still thriving in my tank. It was in the LFS for 3 weeks before I saw it but when I saw it I reserved it and picked it up the next Friday.

The thing I like about temp acclimating is how the fish can see eachother and get used to eachother with a barrier even if you don’t have an acclimation box.

You’d think with me owning several fish that are over £100 ($135) I’d QT but no, I leave it to my LFS to QT because I find a big risk to QT is also a chance of death, possibly the same chance as if you put a fish straight into an established reef.

Those fish are:
- Genicanthus melanospilos £119 ($161.79)
- Hoplolatilus chlupatyi £108 ($146.83)
- Siganus magnificus £130 ($176.74)

I didn’t pay that much for a foxface however, if I saw a similar sized one (4-5”) it would be about the same price now. I bought him for £99 ($134.60) as a 3” specimen, my LFS has a 1.5” specimen for that same price.
 
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That's how it was explained to me. Anthias in general don't ship well.
This is what I have seen, not just in anthias but also in many of the other fish people say are tough in their tanks.
 
This is what I have seen, not just in anthias but also in many of the other fish people say are tough in their tanks.
Likewise. Wrasses, butterflies and especially tangs. Frankly the rabbits and Hawkfish that have survived the flukes in my current situation are survivors. Especially the Lo, it's been through ich, twice!
 
I assume that Siganids have a much thicker slime coat than their close relatives of Acanthuridae do then, if you guys have had yours survive ich, brook, velvet, uronema ect?
 
I wonder if the anthias uronema issue is helped with tank bred specimens? One of my LFS will get in about 20 lyretail anthias every 6 weeks or so, supposedly bred by a local guy. It takes awhile for them all to sell, so I'll see many (I believe they are QT'ed to some degree before sale, as they do that with their wild-caught fish for sure) stay in their holding tanks for weeks. They've always outwardly looked healthy, and while obviously most diseases aren't obvious to the naked eye, I wonder if the lack of shipping + being raised in tank conditions could help with the issues OP and others are seeing in wld-caught specimens?

I wonder because I've had an eye on a Lyretail Anthias for awhile now, but between concern about potential aggression to my assessor and (hopefully future) purple tilefish, as well as diseases persisting past the 14-21 day QT my LFS provides, I haven't pulled the trigger just yet
 
Lyretails I have had a little success with but just like Cromis they kill each other off one by one until only one left. Best luck I have had is with Ignitus. Put in 9 and after a year I still have 8. 6 weeks ago I added 4 Purple Queens and have all of them. They are feed every 90 min with freeze dried Calanus on an Auto feeder and frozen in the AM and PM before and after work . Most Anthias are semi aggressive. Ignitus and Purple Queens are Peaceful along with a few others , and seam to do better for me.
Tank is 150 gallon.
 
"Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum
  1. Take some freshwater (RO is best) and heat it up to the same temperature as the tank
  2. Adjust the pH of the freshwater to match the tank using a commercial pH buffer.
  3. Catch the fish and pop it into the freshwater bath, watch the fish carefully and be prepared to remove it if it becomes very distressed. ...
  4. Catch the fish and put it back into the tank. ... "
 
borbonius anthias do quite well in reef tanks once you get them to eat, BRS' display ones are huge.
 
Lyretails I have had a little success with but just like Cromis they kill each other off one by one until only one left. Best luck I have had is with Ignitus. Put in 9 and after a year I still have 8. 6 weeks ago I added 4 Purple Queens and have all of them. They are feed every 90 min with freeze dried Calanus on an Auto feeder and frozen in the AM and PM before and after work . Most Anthias are semi aggressive. Ignitus and Purple Queens are Peaceful along with a few others , and seam to do better for me.
Tank is 150 gallon.
Funny about the chromis, I had a small shoal of 5 fish for years. Stuff would go to hell in the tank and I'd lose one. I had a pair left for a few years until the bout of flukes I'm dealing with, I'm down to one. Also had a pair of ******* blue/yellow damsels, they both croaked :( over flukes.
 
Likewise on the uronema. I've bought a harem of lyretails and sunburst anthias over the past year. I know I have uronema in my tank (blue/green chromis lived through it). I feed them heavy, they never make it. They are as elusive to me as a copperband, my total achilles heel fish.

Btw, both sets survived 30 days of QT @ LFS, they die off within a month once I get them home.
i had 5 dispar in my 90 and they lived for a week, as soon as they started settling in and forming their social structure and had any sort of stress one after another they died week after week. tried it with a trio of lyretails aswell and same thing. both groups 30 days copper safe.
 
i had 5 dispar in my 90 and they lived for a week, as soon as they started settling in and forming their social structure and had any sort of stress one after another they died week after week. tried it with a trio of lyretails aswell and same thing. both groups 30 days copper safe.
I have a 5 fish harem now of lyretails, one male to 4x females. They have lasted a year as of this August. Healthy as can be, only difference between them and now is I went from a 40w to a 57w uv.
 
I have a 5 fish harem now of lyretails, one male to 4x females. They have lasted a year as of this August. Healthy as can be, only difference between them and now is I went from a 40w to a 57w uv.
did you buy small or large ones? was one already a male or all females? my S/O really wants anthias in our living room DT but ive tried the lyretails for her and they didnt yield great results.
 
did you buy small or large ones? was one already a male or all females? my S/O really wants anthias in our living room DT but ive tried the lyretails for her and they didnt yield great results.
I went with 5x females and one transitioned to male. They werent total runts but about 1.5-2" long. They are all now 3" or so.

You can see some of them roaming about with the tangs in the video.

 
I am starting to believe that most anthias are dying from uronema.

If anyone has recently lost an anthias, did you see red sores on it?

In the past before I was observant with fish diseases, I would lose new anthias within 1-2 weeks. It never made sense because they were eating at least twice a day.

Even if they would slowly lose weight, I don’t think it would happen within 2 weeks. It should take much much longer.
Without reading why others have said from my experiences most Anthias die from being bullied by another Anthias.
 

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