Do you cover your Red LEDs?

[Steverd]

I got this light box because my LFS is using them over their coral.
They cover the four Red LED with blue painters tape. They said it reduces the Reds
when reduces algae growth.

So, is this true? Or does covering the Red LEDs only reduce the PAR value into the tank?

Thoughts?

 

[Daniel Waters]

That fixture has 60 LEDs. Covering 4 red LEDs isn't going to make that much of a difference, especially given that there are 16 white LEDs that are also providing red spectrum. If they or you are getting too much algae growth, you need to look at other solutions such as increased nutrient export and proper type and # of cleanup crew critters.

 

[jda]

There is enough red in the white diodes to grow algae. Algae will grow with just about any kind of light. This is not anything to worry about.

 

[John3]

I’m surprised the tape doesn’t burn. The leds on my radion would def burn it up.

I like a little red for some added color pop. I have no algae issues at all. My red runs at 20%.

 

[Steverd]

I’m surprised the tape doesn’t burn. The leds on my radion would def burn it up.
I like a little red for some added color pop. I have no algae issues at all. My red runs at 20%.

Just tested the temp with a laser thermometer and the hottest spot at 100% power was 84'f
Maybe I need to replace my black box light with a Radion?
The max PAR I can get is 200 PAR at the bottom of the frag tank.
Is that too low?????

Thank you!

 

[Daniel Waters]

The max PAR I can get is 200 PAR at the bottom of the frag tank.
Is that too low?????
Thank you!

It depends on what you are trying to keep. 200 par is a good target for a lot of SPS. A lot of acropora would appreciate more light, but I think many could be kept at those levels (kept does not necessarily mean best coloration and best growth rates, though). LPS and softies don't need near that much light.

 

[Mark Gray]

No never

 

[sawdonkey]

Just tested the temp with a laser thermometer and the hottest spot at 100% power was 84'f
Maybe I need to replace my black box light with a Radion?
The max PAR I can get is 200 PAR at the bottom of the frag tank.
Is that too low?????

Thank you!

I’d be surprised if that light only produces 200 PAR in a frag tank. That seems really low. 200 PAR at 100%?

If you don’t like the red, swapping out diodes in these black boxes is fairly easy and cheap. You can buy 3w diodes off eBay and soldering them in is super easy.

 

[jda]

Which meter and sensor? Some need correction factor applied to them.

 

[John3]

Just tested the temp with a laser thermometer and the hottest spot at 100% power was 84'f
Maybe I need to replace my black box light with a Radion?
The max PAR I can get is 200 PAR at the bottom of the frag tank.
Is that too low?????

Thank you!

When I first got my radion I was sitting on the couch and plugged it in to program it. I didn’t realize by default it would turn on. It was laying with the leds against the couch. It literally burned a hole in my couch, smoke and everything. It was only on for like 5 seconds when I saw the smoke

 

[Steverd]

Which meter and sensor? Some need correction factor applied to them.

I am using a Seneye, and know from the BRS videos that can be upto 10% off at times.
I only have Zoanthids in this tanks, so I've set the PAR value to about 110 in the hot spot.
The measurements are from the Fusion Lagoon 25, with about 10 inches of water.
These are pretty rough numbers as I try to get the Seneye meter in between frags.

 

[Coralreefer1]

Algae definitely responds favorably to light from the red end of the spectrum. Having said this, unwanted algae growth as well as good algae can also thrive via other means. Phosphate, nitrates, foods, increased bioload, not enough janitorial crew to handle the algae bloom. The amount of time you leave the lights on is another determining factor that can spur unwanted growth. Advection and diffusion have also been associated with elevated nutrients in your benthic and palegic areas, especially under rock work and coral.
These are just some stepping stones that should be considered to try to combat the hair and bubble algae as well as Cyanobacteria.

 

[OhDumb]

That's good PAR range for Zoas. I would only cover the red LEDs if it makes the tank more pleasing to the you eye. Otherwise it really isn't doing much in my opinion.

 

[oreo54]

If one is so inclined.. best to just de-solder the red diodes and solder a jumper wire in between the 2 empty contacts.
there is a "slight" chance the string voltage goes below the driver minumum but, to be honest, that driver is outputting about 90V DC and you will lose about 9V by removing the diodes..

Depending on the driver it is more likely, though still slim adding anything other than low voltage reds may push the string voltage above the max voltage of the driver..

Is any of this necessary.. no...

 

[Velcro]

That layout is awful.

 

[rock_lobster]

its mostly a myth. Yes red spectrum might grow algae 5% faster than blue or white light but algae will grow extremely well under any spectrum from 420-700 if there is enough phosphate and nitrate in the water.

 

[Velcro]

its mostly a myth. Yes red spectrum might grow algae 5% faster than blue or white light but algae will grow extremely well under any spectrum from 420-700 if there is enough phosphate and nitrate in the water.

There's more to it than phosphate and nitrate being in the water. I have 32ppm no3 and 0.4ppm po4 with zero algae other than coraline.

 

[rock_lobster]

There's more to it than phosphate and nitrate being in the water. I have 32ppm no3 and 0.4ppm po4 with zero algae other than coraline.

yes of course algae needs more than just that. Either you have some major trace element deficiencies or else a great clean up crew. Those are the exact parameters I use for my macro grow tank with regular 10k t5 bulbs and it produces about a a basketball sized clump per month.

 

[Velcro]

yes of course algae needs more than just that. Either you have some major trace element deficiencies or else a great clean up crew. Those are the exact parameters I use for my macro grow tank with regular 10k t5 bulbs and it produces about a a basketball sized clump per month.

Probably not a deficiency. I change about 200 gallons every 1-2 months in a 150 gallon system.

 

[rock_lobster]

Probably not a deficiency. I change about 200 gallons every 1-2 months in a 150 gallon system.

Then it should be ideal for algae growth