Does everyone just end up buying an RODI system eventually??

[jeffrey750750]

Yup

 

[SPitts6654]

I have a system and can/do make my own water. I recently moved and just started buying water again from my LFS to give me a reason to stop in every week.

 

[FastandCurious]

Wait what exactly is the problem? Which parameters are you trying to get to 0? Where are you trying to get them to 0? In the tank or freshly mixed saltwater or from the freshwater source?

You said your pH isn’t getting down to 0 but it shouldn’t be.

Your tap water has ammonia and nitrites in it? Even after filtering it as your drinking water?

I’m assuming at that point you’re talking about in the actual tank.

Has this tank been cycled?

Edit: I’m not against getting a rodi system but just want to clear up any confusion you might be having. If you already have a filtration setup that your LFS says will work it might not be necessary to get a RODI system and from what you’ve posted so far I don’t see anything about why your freshwater isn’t good enough. What’s the TDS of your filtered water?

Ok, my pH is actually not that bad it's 7.8, but my ammonia is starting to creep up at 0.5-1.0 currently and my nitrites are higher than I would like at around 0.25-0.50. My nitrates are somehow fine. Yes I cycled the tank. My numbers were never 0 to begin with but they were pretty close. I've been testing everyday and keeping a log for the last month and don't like that my numbers seem to be going up and not down. So instead of buying all these crazy amounts of dosing chemicals to try to fix the water I have now I think I'm just going to invest in an RODI system and do a large water change and then test again and go from there. (Also I will be checking my cities water parameters as well)

 

[FastandCurious]

Yup

Nice

 

[FastandCurious]

A pH of zero is not possible nor wanted. That measures acidity and <1 would be unbelievably caustic. 7 is middle and perfectly neutral water. Most reefs hover in the 8.3 area (slightly basic). RODI water however will likely be 7 out of the filter, which is desired.

I didn't mean I wanted my pH zero, I meant I wanted my other levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates to be zero. My pH isn't great, it's at 7.8 but I would love to see it at 8.2-8.3. I am dosing a pH buffer but I haven't seen any change.

 

[FastandCurious]

Yes they are in series. I don't know the answer regarding if it need to be replace more often or not.

It is a question that how long will the 2nd membrane last, will it be more expensive to replace the 2nd membrane vs the water bill?

Maybe @Bulk Reef Supply can chime in on this one

I agree I am looking for the same thing. How expensive are we talking for the 2nd membrane replacement? And how often? @Bulk Reef Supply hook us up lol

 

[abbypoodle]

Short answer: Yes

I was excited to setup and install a system. Not only does it provide pure RO/DI water for my tank, I have a pressure tank for drinking water on the same system.

I used to get drinking water from one of those stands at the store. I tested the water and it was around 50 TDS! So the water I paid and lugged around wasn’t even that good.

 

[JumboShrimp]

In one word: “YES”

 

[kpoj9]

Yup

 

[magicwhistle]

Ok, my pH is actually not that bad it's 7.8, but my ammonia is starting to creep up at 0.5-1.0 currently and my nitrites are higher than I would like at around 0.25-0.50. My nitrates are somehow fine. Yes I cycled the tank. My numbers were never 0 to begin with but they were pretty close. I've been testing everyday and keeping a log for the last month and don't like that my numbers seem to be going up and not down. So instead of buying all these crazy amounts of dosing chemicals to try to fix the water I have now I think I'm just going to invest in an RODI system and do a large water change and then test again and go from there. (Also I will be checking my cities water parameters as well)

What’s the water quality after you filter it though. For drinking water. Whats your TDS at? Does the filtered water still have chlorine or chloramines present?

Your ammonia should have been 0 after cycling. Nitrites should also be 0. (Well both shouldn’t register on hobby testing equipment). What’s fine for nitrates?

I don’t think changing to a different water filter is going to help unless your current water situation is introducing ammonia (most drinking filters will handle this though so I’m not sure that’s the case).

Regardless if your tank fully cycled should be able to go from 1ppm down to 0 in like 12 hours max. So even if you were introducing ammonia to the tank it shouldn’t be noticeable after a while and it shouldn’t be increasing. And with you using LFS water now I highly doubt their water is suspect. Meaning you should definitely currently have 0 ammonia and nitrites...

I think something else is going on here. Anything dead or missing in the tank? Do your rocks look like the algae is having mass die off? have you introduced a lot of animals really quickly?

Getting a RODI will def still be beneficial but I don’t think it’s the solution for what’s going on with your tank right now. And without more info it’s hard to know what is the issue. What’s all your parameters in the tank? pH ammonia nitrites nitrates KH phosphates Sg. What tests are you using to get these numbers?

What exactly is making you suspect it’s your filtered water? Even though your LFS said it should be fine? (Which you wouldn’t think they’d easily do when someone is regularly buying water from them...)

 

[abbypoodle]

Don’t forget about having full control!

Chloramines: add specific unit from BRS or more carbon!
Well: need to consider impact of co2 on resin.
Silicates: got units for that.

I have only encountered chloramine but the BRS chloramines monster resolved my concerns. Also a good idea to stock up on resins and filters during sales like black friday.

 

[Philly Reefer]

I didn't mean I wanted my pH zero, I meant I wanted my other levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates to be zero. My pH isn't great, it's at 7.8 but I would love to see it at 8.2-8.3. I am dosing a pH buffer but I haven't seen any change.

You dont want nitrate to be 0. 5-10 is fine.
Don't use ph buffer. If you have a skimmer, you can connect an airline hose to the air input, then run that line to outside.

I agree I am looking for the same thing. How expensive are we talking for the 2nd membrane replacement? And how often? @Bulk Reef Supply hook us up lol

RO Membrane is $35 from BRS. But I don't know how often it need to be change though

 

[K7BMG]

I didn't mean I wanted my pH zero, I meant I wanted my other levels of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates to be zero. My pH isn't great, it's at 7.8 but I would love to see it at 8.2-8.3. I am dosing a pH buffer but I haven't seen any change.

Yes I understood this, others did not.
You were simply asking if a RO/DI was a wise investment and what most do in the hobby.
Yes it is, and yes they do.

Some are nutz like MYSELF case in point my RO/DI system.

First side, Input water into two big blue sediment canisters 25 micron.
Then into three BRS sediment filters two 5 micron followed by a 1 micron.
Then to carbon filter stages two 5 micron down to two 1 micron.
Then to the pump.

Side 2
RO unit 200gallon per day Dow Corning membranes in series.
then to my DI stages. These are 20 inch canisters.
Starting with three canisters of Cation.
followed by three canisters of Anion
followed by three canisters of mix bed.
I use the swap method.
When the first canister of a particular resin is depleted its removed cleaned and refilled.
Canister two is moved into position one and canister three is moved into position two and the fresh canister goes to position three.

This is my RO/DI storage and salt water mixing station.
300G Norwesco tanks cleaned and sterilized before implementation.
RO/DI is on the right. Saltwater tank on the left.
I use the RO/DI as my auto top off as well as just storage.
The same with the saltwater. I have not completed this part yet but will use it as an auto water change tank as well.

If I need RO/DI water I turn on the pump and use the ball valve to dispense into a bucket.
If I am in need of a water change I turn on the mixing pump and dispense saltwater through a NuClear filter. This way any sediment will be filtered out before it gets into the tank.

After doing my research this is the start of my reef tank build, long before the tank itself.

 

[magicwhistle]

Yes I understood this, others did not.
You were simply asking if a RO/DI was a wise investment and what most do in the hobby.
Yes it is, and yes they do.

Some are nutz like MYSELF case in point my RO/DI system.

First side, Input water into two big blue sediment canisters 25 micron.
Then into three BRS sediment filters two 5 micron followed by a 1 micron.
Then to carbon filter stages two 5 micron down to two 1 micron.
Then to the pump.

Side 2
RO unit 200gallon per day Dow Corning membranes in series.
then to my DI stages. These are 20 inch canisters.
Starting with three canisters of Cation.
followed by three canisters of Anion
followed by three canisters of mix bed.
I use the swap method.
When the first canister of a particular resin is depleted its removed cleaned and refilled.
Canister two is moved into position one and canister three is moved into position two and the fresh canister goes to position three.

This is my RO/DI storage and salt water mixing station.
300G Norwesco tanks cleaned and sterilized before implementation.
RO/DI is on the right. Saltwater tank on the left.
I use the RO/DI as my auto top off as well as just storage.
The same with the saltwater. I have not completed this part yet but will use it as an auto water change tank as well.

If I need RO/DI water I turn on the pump and use the ball valve to dispense into a bucket.
If I am in need of a water change I turn on the mixing pump and dispense saltwater through a NuClear filter. This way any sediment will be filtered out before it gets into the tank.

After doing my research this is the start of my reef tank build, long before the tank itself.

You really genuinely think that changing to homemade RODI water is going to stop their ammonia and nitrites rising and reduce them to 0 and bring their nitrates to normal levels and also raise her tanks pH. Over LRS water?

Really? Really really?

 

[wranodj]

Best piece of equipment bought

 

[magicwhistle]

So bizarre.

Clearly something is going on with their tank beyond what their source water is. They’ve been using LRS water for water changes... and have increasing ammonia and nitrites. 0 nitrates. Lowish pH and they’re using a pH buffer. These are the issues they’ve brought up they intend to try and fix in the OP.

But it’s being ignored to promote RODI systems and RODI knowledge and setups.

Again, RODI systems are great. Get one if you can. I don’t see it fixing your current situation though which I’d see as the bigger concern here.

 

[Philly Reefer]

So bizarre.

Clearly something is going on with their tank beyond what their source water is. They’ve been using LRS water for water changes... and have increasing ammonia and nitrites. 0 nitrates. Lowish pH and they’re using a pH buffer. These are the issues they’ve brought up they intend to try and fix in the OP.

But it’s being ignored to promote RODI systems and RODI knowledge and setups.

Again, RODI systems are great. Get one if you can. I don’t see it fixing your current situation though which I’d see as the bigger concern here.

The title of this thread is
Does everyone just end up buying an RODI system eventually??

 

[magicwhistle]

The title of this thread is
Does everyone just end up buying an RODI system eventually??

And the actual original post highlights more than that including reasoning for why they’re deciding to get a RODI filter.

They say they already have a filter that their reef store said would work fine. So what info do YOU have over that to say an RODI system is what they need to fix these issues they’re having?

EDIT: Let me put it this way... if I was having issues with my tank and I thought that a certain solution would fix it and asked the community about it and they ignored the issues and just harped on about how great the technology was but it didn't end up fixing my actual issue after spending say 100-300$ I'd be kinda cheesed to say the least.

 

[Philly Reefer]

And the actual original post highlights more than that including reasoning for why they’re deciding to get a RODI filter.

They say they already have a filter that their reef store said would work fine. So what info do YOU have over that to say an RODI system is what they need to fix these issues they’re having?

I agree that these conversations should be helping her more with those issues.

But due to the title of this thread that are making these conversations goes toward rodi systems.

 

[magicwhistle]

I agree that these conversations should be helping her more with those issues.

But due to the title of this thread that are making these conversations goes toward rodi systems.

That's fair.

Their tank has quite a bit of fish in it though (looking at the build thread) and it doesn't take long for rising ammonia to kill fish.