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That is the only design I would use I did the same one. It's cheap very easy to build and easy to enclose!So the red and yellow get bigger with larger tanks, the rest is 2X4. You don’t need bigger. Notice the purple pieces are BETWEEN the top and bottom so they carry the weight, not screws/nails/glue. Use kiln dried and seal the wood, avoid the treated stuff. You don’t need the center brace in most cases.![]()
Looks good- Attach a base for sumpSo the red and yellow get bigger with larger tanks, the rest is 2X4. You don’t need bigger. Notice the purple pieces are BETWEEN the top and bottom so they carry the weight, not screws/nails/glue. Use kiln dried and seal the wood, avoid the treated stuff. You don’t need the center brace in most cases.![]()
I have built many just like this with out any issues and have had a 125 on one also. A thin piece of weather strip foam around the perimeter of the top and piece of plywood on top if that ensures proper weight distribution and no pressure points or warp when the tank is full. If your not exact with the measurements of the leg pieces you can easily build a warp into it and knot know it.So the red and yellow get bigger with larger tanks, the rest is 2X4. You don’t need bigger. Notice the purple pieces are BETWEEN the top and bottom so they carry the weight, not screws/nails/glue. Use kiln dried and seal the wood, avoid the treated stuff. You don’t need the center brace in most cases.![]()

Do I really have to seal the wood? They'll charge me like an extra $200+ for 'sealing', I don't think most people with stands(only frames) seal their frames unless it has the cabins, levels, etc. I should've mentioned this earlier but I think I made it pretty obvious-I can just use a frame instead of a whole complete stand with doors, levels, etc. correct? I was thinking of buying a 6 feet long iron stand for $320 at my lfs but it will rust very quick, I'd rather use this frame(no sump)So the red and yellow get bigger with larger tanks, the rest is 2X4. You don’t need bigger. Notice the purple pieces are BETWEEN the top and bottom so they carry the weight, not screws/nails/glue. Use kiln dried and seal the wood, avoid the treated stuff. You don’t need the center brace in most cases.![]()
Vette theres no sump, just one fx6 canister..Looks good- Attach a base for sump
Seal it yourself 40.00Do I really have to seal the wood? They'll charge me like an extra $200+ for 'sealing', I don't think most people with stands(only frames) seal their frames unless it has the cabins, levels, etc. I should've mentioned this earlier but I think I made it pretty obvious-I can just use a frame instead of a whole complete stand with doors, levels, etc. correct? I was thinking of buying a 6 feet long iron stand for $320 at my lfs but it will rust very quick, I'd rather use this frame(no sump)
I used rigid insulation foam from home Depot on top of the plywood topI have built many just like this with out any issues and have had a 125 on one also. A thin piece of weather strip foam around the perimeter of the top and piece of plywood on top if that ensures proper weight distribution and no pressure points or warp when the tank is full. If your not exact with the measurements of the leg pieces you can easily build a warp into it and knot know it.![]()
Its open top(frame only)I used rigid insulation foam from home Depot on top of the plywood top
What do you mean by sealing it though? There are two or more different meanings here i believe, any youtube link would help... im confused, ive been told only professionals can do it as it is very hard, I can paint and stain it but sealing comes afterwards, thats why they charge $200+Seal it yourself 40.00
How do you get to your kitchen now haha?Here’s mine if you curious. I used rocket engineer design with 2x6 (overkill, but simplistic). I omitted some of the extra vertical accessory supports because I skinned mine (not pictured here)
Both designs not recommended. Shear forces on the nails/screws on the vertical columns...not good. Better to place the main vertical columns under the horizontal braces and therefore put the posts in compression. Additional vertical side posts secured in shear forces for stability is OK (side screws), as well as side/back braces for lateral forces. Flat sheets of plywood or diagonal braces will work for this...In case of Earthquakes, etc. A sheet on top will distribute the weight more evenly on the bottom of the aquarium and further add to torsion resistance. Or you can just use the stand, since it is already made, and add the top plywood, and hope there are no earthquakes in your area.The company selling this claims it is more than secure(it uses 2x4 wood) but my handyman says it is not and that he can build me a sturdier one for an extra $40 (no cabinets or shelves/levels just the frames) with 2x6 wood, what do you guys think? Can I use the one from the company??
This is from the company's:
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This is from the handyman:
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Two coats of primer paint and two coats of outdoor rated paint would be more than enough.What do you mean by sealing it though? There are two or more different meanings here i believe, any youtube link would help... im confused, ive been told only professionals can do it as it is very hard, I can paint and stain it but sealing comes afterwards, thats why they charge $200+
Use a non toxic outdoor paint. Make sure all surfaces are covered with 2 coats. Are those photos you showed being sold by professional?What do you mean by sealing it though? There are two or more different meanings here i believe, any youtube link would help... im confused, ive been told only professionals can do it as it is very hard, I can paint and stain it but sealing comes afterwards, thats why they charge $200+
There’s a lot of different products, but hit up your local hardware store for a tub of polyurethane or marine spar varnish (1/4 gallon) and a small bag of stain sponges and a box of disposable gloves. Lightly sand it and then wipe the dust off. Use a sponge to put a clear coat of poly/varnish over the whole thing - do this either outdoors or in a very very very well ventilated space like a garage with a box fan pointed out the door. Cover every surface with a thin coat. Come back the next day and repeat. I’d then lightly sand the whole thing and then put a third coat on for a smooth finish, but I just like woodworking so that’s me.What do you mean by sealing it though? There are two or more different meanings here i believe, any youtube link would help... im confused, ive been told only professionals can do it as it is very hard, I can paint and stain it but sealing comes afterwards, thats why they charge $200+
The first one also appears to be treated lumber which has a tendency to bow as it dries, so that would make me nervous on a stand.
Center bracing will help. Ive seen cheap stands support large tanks and the water weight will prevent this rocking mentioned.@RocketEngineer @vetteguy53081 @Cichlid Dad @PotatoPig @Gtinnel @luilui
This is what my handyman wrote in reply to the drawing:
"The concern with your drawing is what happens when someone stands at the short end of the stand and pushes the top of it. With the heavy aquarium on it there is no diagonal support. The pic that I sent you has additional cross pieces to stop the uprights from tilting down when pushed diagonally. Again I'm happy to build it like your drawing. Just let me know."-this is the pic he sent me:
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