Don't have a GFCI outlet? Get one! Almost died!

I've actually been learning a lot from this thread.
 
Right, but is the wire in your room 14/2 rated at 15 amps or 12/2 rated at 20. What is load of the tank what's in the room? Yes, gfci measures the in current and compares it to the out, it also measures everything in the room behind it too. I can go for 8 hours or more without being able even be near my phone. I really feel strongly about a deadicated circuit for your tank stuff.
This was just not towards you, but all of us. I was really just trying to help.
 
For those of you worrying about false trips, etc.
Like anything in this hobby you get what you pay for.
I use Hubbell products at work, I literally put my life in their hands.
You can go with commercial to industrial to hospital grade GFCI

Here is a data sheet, the prices go up as you get to the bottom, and go up from left to right (Residential grade to Hospital grade)

http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/Press/PDFS/H5212.pdf

They even build these now with a frequent self test.
 
Right, but is the wire in your room 14/2 rated at 15 amps or 12/2 rated at 20. What is load of the tank what's in the room? Yes, gfci measures the in current and compares it to the out, it also measures everything in the room behind it too. I can go for 8 hours or more without being able even be near my phone. I really feel strongly about a deadicated circuit for your tank stuff.

GFCI does not measure NET Current, only Differential Current. Net Current protection is done by the feeder breaker (Your 15 panel breaker)
 
Right, but is the wire in your room 14/2 rated at 15 amps or 12/2 rated at 20. What is load of the tank what's in the room? Yes, gfci measures the in current and compares it to the out, it also measures everything in the room behind it too. I can go for 8 hours or more without being able even be near my phone. I really feel strongly about a deadicated circuit for your tank stuff.

You can put a 20amp GFCI outlet on 15amp line connect to a 15amp breaker the breaker will pop first which I would rather have because they are more reliable. All my high draw pieces of equipment are on their own dedicated 20 amp breaker run with the proper gauge wires. Like my 800W heater, 480 Watt ATI Sunpower, the lights to the other 2 tanks on the system, skimmer and a couple other small draw non essential things. My return, vortechs, other powerheads are on a 15 amp breaker that runs into the adjacent room which I just played with not 10 min ago to find out what else in the house is on that breaker. Which is only the outlets in the adjacent room that the display is in only a TV and couches is in that room along with room lights which are LED bulbs.
 
You can put a 20amp GFCI outlet on 15amp line connect to a 15amp breaker the breaker will pop first which I would rather have because they are more reliable. All my high draw pieces of equipment are on their own dedicated 20 amp breaker run with the proper gauge wires. Like my 800W heater, 480 Watt ATI Sunpower, the lights to the other 2 tanks on the system, skimmer and a couple other small draw non essential things. My return, vortechs, other powerheads are on a 15 amp breaker that runs into the adjacent room which I just played with not 10 min ago to find out what else in the house is on that breaker. Which is only the outlets in the adjacent room that the display is in only a TV and couches is in that room along with room lights which are LED bulbs.
No you cant. Because if you do, you are violating electrical code. If your house burns or you die, no money for you.

http://www.freenec.com/images/Table_210_24.jpg
 
Wow.. this thread changed from when I last looked at it.

I've seen some pretty bad and false statements on here but I'm just going to let much of it go since it isn't going to kill anyone.

I think it is important to talk about the purpose of a ground probe in an aquarium. It functions a bit differently with a GFCI and without a GFCI. It is important to remember that the glass of an aquarium acts as an insulator preventing electrical faults from going to ground. This means a faulted piece of equipment may create a dangerous condition in the tank without any current flowing to ground.
If you have a heater that faults on a GFCI circuit, it may not trip until you put your hand in the tank. If you have a ground probe installed the GFCI will trip as soon as an electrical fault occurs.
If you have a heater that faults on a regular outlet the ground probe will prevent a dangerous voltage from building in the tank. If the electrical fault is severe enough it will allow the circuit breaker to trip and clear the fault.

I plan on having a GFCI for my heaters and powerheads. I will not have my return pump, lights or controllers on a GFCI for reliability reasons. I will use a ground probe to make my tank safe for these critical components. As long as you understand the risks and function of your protective devices you can establish a safe and yet reliable aquarium electrical system.
 
Well my tank almost killed me last night. First I'll start off by saying when I first had a dedicated breaker and outlets run to my fish room months ago. I specifically asked the electrician to install a GFCI/AFCI breaker so I didn't have to use multiple GFCI/AFCI outlets. There must of been some sort of miscommunication obviously because he just out a regular breaker in or I wouldn't be on here talking about it.

Well last night I was putting the finishing the final touches on a new isolated tank I had installed in the fish room for nudibranch breeding. The last step was taking one of the 200W Aqeon Pro heaters out of my RO/DI holding drum and putting it in the new tank. Well unknown to me and unseen to the eye the gasket where the cord goes into the heater had become bad, so once I plugged it in I had 2.27 amps running ungrounded in the new tank. The reason I know the amps being drawn is because that's what my Archon controller told me it was drawing. Now that I look back on it I should have tested the water with a multimeter to be safe but at this point I thought I had the proper breaker installed.

In the time between me plugging the heater in and give the tank a final look over. The air stone in the tank had become dislodged and was floating at the surface. So not thinking anything about the heater the moment I stuck my hand in the water considering ohm's law I had to of had well over 1 amp running threw my body. For those of you that don't know much about electricity 1 amp + stops your heart not mentioning all the other nasty things that type of power does like burning internal organs, bursting veins, stopping breathing etc.... Back to my story my hand is in the water and instantly I lose all control of my body. I straightened up flatter then a board. It must have looked like I got hit by a police tazer gun. Luckily I was leaning away from the tank, so when I lost control I was thrown through an open adjacent door and hit the ground faster the a sack of bricks.

The only reason I believe I'm still alive today or not in a hospital bed getting skin graphs needing new organs, is due to the fact that I had wet socks on wet carpet. This gave the electricity a path to follow which prevented it from doing severe damage elsewhere. Ok if you have gotten this far reading and still thinking this can't happen to me well I didn't come out of this without some wounds. Here's a picture for thought.

image.jpeg

This is the aftermath and I'm lucky to have only this. After I left the ground the electricity it made its way up my arm towards my watch and stopped at my bicep when my hand finally left the water. Left a nasty electrical burn.

Moral of the story....make sure for certain you have a GFCI breaker or outlet that your aquariums are plugged into it may save your life someday!! I'm certainly lucky to still have mine. Think about it this way without a GFCI safety in place your putting your life in the hands of that $10-$100 heater you bought.[/Had an Aqueon 500 power head do the same thing to me it had been damaged when tube came of an Instant Ocean Protein skimmer and shot water on my coralife power strip. Had noticed a blue hippo tang about 2" insize getting what appeared to be lateral line and had a disformed tail that wasn't like that when I bought him. Had put my hand in the tank to move a rock and got zapped. Figured out where the source was cut the plug off the power head and replaced with a hospital grade plug. Only use that power head to mix salt with now. Blue Hippo recovering nicely tail is the only sign shaped like a V with a thumbs up all the coloration is back and he is real healthy and active.
I have had heaters crack just from a slight tap when moving something in the tank. Quickly un plugged and removed to trash. I do not use heaters any more for that reason. When testing the power head with it in the sink had an arc from outlet when pugging it in burn a hole in my index finger about the size of a pencil lead.
 
I don't mean to doubt you or question the dangers of electricity, but are you sure that you didn't just scrape your arm and hand on the edge of the tank after feeling the shock?
Then the exorcist must have been in the room to throw him after he cut himself. And I venture to say by the looks of the pictures those are more than just scratches.
 
This thread has taken some twists and turns. Lot of advice(some good, some bad) and a lot of opinions. In the end the this is a great post to bring up the SAFETY of our hobby. Whether you install a GFCI outlet or a GFCI breaker........ Please install a GFCI on your tank circuit. The safety of your tank is more than just you for a large number of aquarists. We have family and friends that we love to show off our tanks to. Our families probably do a lot to help at times when we are not able to feed fish or add top off water or whatever. It would be horrible that one of our family or friends were hurt by our tanks for something that is completely preventable. Yes it could cost as much as a good, rare coral or a prized fish to install the proper protection. I have had the unfortunate experience of trying to save someone that was shocked by water from an unprotected circuit. If you have money for anything in this hobby, a GFCI should be the first thing to spend it on.
 
Please, if anyone finds a fault (pun intended) with my advice, calculation, please bring it to my attention. I will issue corrections if the concerns are valid.
 
Please, if anyone finds a fault (pun intended) with my advice, calculation, please bring it to my attention. I will issue corrections if the concerns are valid.

In my opinion you have been making very accurate posts.

The only thing I saw you post that I took exception to is if he had received a shock of 100mA across the chest he wouldn't be here. That is not necessarily the case. Electric shock is considered to most likely be fatal at levels greater than 100mA for 2 seconds. That 2 second part is critical and if not for that a GFCI would be much less effective. The GFCI does not reduce the magnitude of the shock, it reduces the duration of the shock. The persons physical condition and overall health also have an impact on how large of a shock they can survive.

As I believe I posted earlier in this thread, a high voltage contractor who works for me got into a 34,500V system (at a different facility) and took >50A across the chest. I believe it was around 200A. Fortunately for him this system had differential protection relays which isolated the fault in under 5 cycles (0.08 seconds). He still had some nasty burns at the entry and exit points but that was it.
 
In my opinion you have been making very accurate posts.

The only thing I saw you post that I took exception to is if he had received a shock of 100mA across the chest he wouldn't be here. That is not necessarily the case. Electric shock is considered to most likely be fatal at levels greater than 100mA for 2 seconds. That 2 second part is critical and if not for that a GFCI would be much less effective. The GFCI does not reduce the magnitude of the shock, it reduces the duration of the shock. The persons physical condition and overall health also have an impact on how large of a shock they can survive.

As I believe I posted earlier in this thread, a high voltage contractor who works for me got into a 34,500V system (at a different facility) and took >50A across the chest. I believe it was around 200A. Fortunately for him this system had differential protection relays which isolated the fault in under 5 cycles (0.08 seconds). He still had some nasty burns at the entry and exit points but that was it.
Yes but for the purpose of this convo Im not going to get into I2T.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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