Dosing Schedule
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G8trBait16
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I saw results in about a month and a half. I was running Red sea coral pro salt which had my dkh at 12.5 or so. It took a few weeks to bring it down to 7.5-8. Like anything else in reefing patience is key, sometimes you can notice things faster, but more often than not it is a slower process.
I have been on it AF products for about 3 months now and my acros are coloring up/growing nicely. The only thing I am working on now is trying to get the settings on my Hydra 52 HD's dialed in.
G8trBait16
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Just to show you an example. Below is 2 pictures. The first one was taken 4/24/16 and the second was taken 7/6/16. Not a huge difference, but some noticeable in my SPS and LPS. Hope this helps out. If you need anything else please let us know. Patience is the key.
Just to show you an example. Below is 2 pictures. The first one was taken 4/24/16 and the second was taken 7/6/16. Not a huge difference, but some noticeable in my SPS and LPS. Hope this helps out. If you need anything else please let us know. Patience is the key.
Thanks, I appreciate you putting that up. Was the April shot BEFORE you started AF?
G8trBait16
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The April shot was 2 days before I started the AF system.
G8trBait16
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I dose 3 drops of Coral B & E every night (Lights off) and Coral Amino and V Every other night (lights off). 3 times a week I feed the AF power food (lights off). NP pro and Pro bio S every morning before lights come on (no specific reason, just habit). Also manually dose 25mL of component 1+, 2+, 3+. I have a BRS dual reactor with Phosphate minus in the first reactor, 2nd one I have zeomix and Carbon (change out once a month). Last but not least I do a 12-16g water change every week with Probiotic Salt. Oh yea and feed my fish 1-2 times a day with LRS and Mysis and 2 drops of Fish V. I know you didn't ask for all of that, but thought I would help out as much as I can, with at least what I do. I am sure others do different, but it seems to work for me.
Is the dropper for B & E the same? I started both at same time and with same number of drops each time.
However my B level is now lower than E. Observed that drop from E dropper is of smaller size. Is it intended to be like that?
However my B level is now lower than E. Observed that drop from E dropper is of smaller size. Is it intended to be like that?
Gary Wilkinson
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The droppers are the same size, the fluids have a different viscosity though, hence the droplet size
Gary Wilkinson
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Yes its as expected, the dosing is a guide, each system is different you should observe the corals and the aquarium, AF Energy (Coral E) may make corals lighten so the dose is reduced AF Amino mix (Coral A) may make colours darken so the dose is reduced, AF Build ( Coral B ) can't be over dosed.
I'm seeing my corals turn a light brown. I'm not getting great color at all. I did a triton water analysis and basically every level was spot on other than low iodine. I'm wondering what I need to do at this point. I have a 60 gallon and I was putting 2 drops of everything. Should I go down to 1? My nitrates are less than 1 ppm and phosphates .01. I am hesitant to feed heavily. I thought all of these bottles I bought were the "food" for the corals. I'm over a month in right now and I'm not seeing results.
miggs76 this takes time, and color shifts can take months, just stay the course, feed your fish as heavy as you want if your nutrients are as low as you indicated, this will ultimately serve as coral food, and the fish will be happy too. Dose close to instructions, and over the course of time, the colors should come, make sure and visit lighting and make sure you are good there too. Cheers
My lighting is an 8 bulb ATI. It is on 100% for 7.5 hours. I also have a reefbrite attached to it that stays on for 12 hours. The par from that is only like 50. If the colors are looking light brown, which one of the AF bottles should I decrease? They are looking worse over time, not better.
miggs76 lets start here:
1. Tank Size(in gallons or liters is fine, just specify)
2. Skimmer(type and specs rated for)
3. Type of corals kept(softy, lps, mixed, sps)
4. Bioload(low, medium, heavy)1
5. Ozone or UV, yes or no:
6. Refugium, yes or no:
7. Additional medias(siporax, matrix, media block)
8. Newly established or conversion(If newly established, how old)
9. If Probiotic Conversion, which type of system?
10. Current parameters, Alk, Ca, Mag, NO3, PO4, K, Salinity
1. Tank Size(in gallons or liters is fine, just specify)
2. Skimmer(type and specs rated for)
3. Type of corals kept(softy, lps, mixed, sps)
4. Bioload(low, medium, heavy)1
5. Ozone or UV, yes or no:
6. Refugium, yes or no:
7. Additional medias(siporax, matrix, media block)
8. Newly established or conversion(If newly established, how old)
9. If Probiotic Conversion, which type of system?
10. Current parameters, Alk, Ca, Mag, NO3, PO4, K, Salinity
Ok here goes...........
1. 60 Gallons
2. Bubble Magus Curve 5 Rated for up to 140 gallons
3. 90% acros (most are mini colonies, a couple are small colonies, a couple are frags)
4. Small to medium bio-load (2 clowns, 1 anthia, 2 yellow damsels, 1 kole tang, 1 royal gramma, 1 cleaner skunk shrimp)
5. No ozone, no UV
6. No refugium, but space for one.
7. I use a marine pure ceramic block in the sump.
8. Tank is 4 years old. Last summer (2015) I went bare bottom and took out my rocks and replaced them with bonsai structures.
9. Only probiotics I use are the Aqua Forest Pro Bio S
10. Alk dkh 7.5 Calcium 460 Mag 1370 No3 .5 Po4 .01 K 430 Salinity 1.025 (all of this was professionally tested by triton just a week ago)
1. 60 Gallons
2. Bubble Magus Curve 5 Rated for up to 140 gallons
3. 90% acros (most are mini colonies, a couple are small colonies, a couple are frags)
4. Small to medium bio-load (2 clowns, 1 anthia, 2 yellow damsels, 1 kole tang, 1 royal gramma, 1 cleaner skunk shrimp)
5. No ozone, no UV
6. No refugium, but space for one.
7. I use a marine pure ceramic block in the sump.
8. Tank is 4 years old. Last summer (2015) I went bare bottom and took out my rocks and replaced them with bonsai structures.
9. Only probiotics I use are the Aqua Forest Pro Bio S
10. Alk dkh 7.5 Calcium 460 Mag 1370 No3 .5 Po4 .01 K 430 Salinity 1.025 (all of this was professionally tested by triton just a week ago)
Thank you, I will actually have a sticky soon that will aid the support team in the future, I appreciate the response. Ok, so we need to use NP Pro along side of Pro Bio S, this is a food source for the bacteria, so fairly important in the maintenance of any bac driven system. The tank does sound a bit too clean, so my suggestion is to use 2 drops of Amino Mix and Vitality, and alternate with 2 drops of Energy and Build. I am not sure of how often you feed, but I would be using a quality frozen food 2 times per day, like PE Mysis, and/or LRS, Reef Frenzy, they seem to make the fish fat and healthy. I have found that well fed fish typically show signs of healthy colorful corals. The supplements are just that, supplements. They do help, but not to forget basic husbandry along the way. You could also use AF Power Food, you could use it nightly as a food source for corals as well, they love it What salt are you currently using, and how often on water changes? Also, what are you using to maintain Ca, Mag, and Alk? Are you dosing any trace? Do you see any polyp extension from your corals? Thanks miggs76!
What salt are you currently using, and how often on water changes? Also, what are you using to maintain Ca, Mag, and Alk? Are you dosing any trace? Do you see any polyp extension from your corals? Thanks miggs76!Thank you, I will actually have a sticky soon that will aid the support team in the future, I appreciate the response. Ok, so we need to use NP Pro along side of Pro Bio S, this is a food source for the bacteria, so fairly important in the maintenance of any bac driven system. The tank does sound a bit too clean, so my suggestion is to use 2 drops of Amino Mix and Vitality, and alternate with 2 drops of Energy and Build. I am not sure of how often you feed, but I would be using a quality frozen food 2 times per day, like PE Mysis, and/or LRS, Reef Frenzy, they seem to make the fish fat and healthy. I have found that well fed fish typically show signs of healthy colorful corals. The supplements are just that, supplements. They do help, but not to forget basic husbandry along the way. You could also use AF Power Food, you could use it nightly as a food source for corals as well, they love it
I appreciate the response---- I'm already pretty much doing everything you suggested exactly: I am already using NP Pro along side of Pro Bio S. 2 drops of each every day. I am doing 2 drops of Amino and Vitality every other night. I am doing 2 drops of energy and build every night. I use LRS reef frenzy too or PE Mysis as my food.
The salt I use is DD H2Ocean. I change 5 gallons every week. I have automatic dosers for Alk and Calcium that maintain my levels. I am not dosing any trace. I have great polyp extension from only my bubble gum milli. The rest of the corals have very little polyp extension.
Is the skimmer wet or dry? That is my last poke at what I can think of what is happening... I would look at dropping your dosage of Pro Bio S and NP Pro to 1 drop per day, see how it impacts the nutrients. With you test results showing on Triton .5 NO3 and .01 PO4, that is more like 5ppm and 0.08 with standard test kits. That said, I feel the water is too nutrient poor, by backing off on Pro Bio S and NP Pro to one drop, that will allow for nutrients to slowly go up, this will likely show with a positive coral response, IMO. Please keep us informed... Cheers!
