Dream build starts now - 270 gal with 252 LEDs

reeferdale · Oct 13, 2011

I have actually had this tank since last December! I finally am going to make the time to get this up and running. I am going to document this and post progress as well as pictuers over the next several weeks. I just finished sanding and buffing the entire tank last week - looks like new.

Today I recived 252 CREE XP LEDs, six 10x18 heatsinks and 5 Inventronics 150 watt drivers (EUC-150S070DT). Going out tomorrow to pick up a butt load of PVC so I can design the plumbing layout.

Here is the main overview of what I am planning to build:

72 x 36 x 24 acrylic tank - mixed reef (heavy SPS/Chalice) + lot of fish this time
sump/fuge is 48x24x16
bashsea 8x30 skimmer
baracuda gold pump
using my old Calcium reactor setup not sure of the name
tank was drilled 6 times for a closed loop (back and one side). no closed loop for now since I want to try to use only 1 pump for everything. I am going to use these holes for return from my Sump. I can always convert over to a closed loop later
2 Koralia magnum 7's (up to 27,000 GPH each) connected to an Apex controller for non linear water movement.
Apex will also control the LED array once I figure out how to do that!
252 CREE LED array
6 sinks with 42 LEDs each (20 CW, 4 NW, 15 RB, 3BL)
5 Inventronics 150 watt drivers (36 - 60 LEDs at 700mA in series). I wanted to go with lower voltage and higher amp drivers for saftey but I just couldn't seem to design a comfortable plan as to how to do the parallel wiring with the correct resistors and fuses, and binning, etc. I think I know how to do it parallel but I just can't risk plugging it in and have $1500 worth of LEDs fry. So I will just do the serial wiring with these drivers and be careful.

For those interested stay tuned. Also, by the time this is done, I should be able to provide help to anyone that has LED questions!

Demonic · Oct 13, 2011

Nice tank, I have the same dimensions and love it. Is the flow on the Koralia's accurate though?

reeferdale · Oct 14, 2011

Demonic said:
Nice tank, I have the same dimensions and love it. Is the flow on the Koralia's accurate though?

I am sure the Koralias will not push that much, the box says 11k to 27k. With six return lines on the gold pump + these I think I should be able to create enough in-tank flow. If not, I a have a couple mag 12s and an 18 I could use for return, then use the baracuda for a closed loop. with this build I really want to try to see how much I can cut cost of running a tank. Based on heat, pumps, lightings (bulbs and elec) I am hoping I can run this for about 1/2 of my 180

reeferdale · Oct 20, 2011

ok so I am going to try to get used to how to post pics here. I have all the LEDs and sinks. I received all my aluminum angle to build the frame.
I am waiting on all the resistors, fuses and terminal blocks and I sent back the 150Watt drivers and I am waiting for 4 new HLG drivers instead (48v 5A). I am going to do the parallel design after all.
So I started the plumbing of the tank. not much to show but I did make a stand for my sump, it is on wheels so I can pull it out a bit if I need to. I have most of the return lines dry fitted and I am working on building a baffle to feed all my reactors and skimmer. The front of the tank will have 6" a granite surround ledge around it, and I will need to build a top canopy with doors once I get the tank running and the lighting in. I still have a looong way to go, but after 10+ months of waiting, at least this is progress!

front of tank

LEDs, fans, cords, etc. with 6 10 x 18 heatsinks
can't believe this is 252 LEDs!

plumbed return lines - rolling sump stand

ReefMP · Oct 20, 2011

Great idea on the removable sump stand...I'll have to keep that in mind for my next build

Battlecorals · Oct 20, 2011

Just a little curious how come your returns are that low in the tank?

reeferdale · Oct 20, 2011

Battlecorals said:
Just a little curious how come your returns are that low in the tank?

Hey Adam, the montis are doing good.

This tank was drilled for a closed loop. You can see the 2 large bulkheads near the bottom.
I do not want to run 2 pumps so I am not using the closed loop. I am going to plug these bottom holes and I have an idea to create a siphon break for these returns so if I lose power they will not drain to that level. I am also going to put a check valve in just incase one of the siphon holes gets plugged. I have used the siphon hole on a stand pipe for 15 yearas and I have never had an issue. I am doing this in such a way that if I ever want to setup and use a closed loop, I will be able to do it without draining the tank. (I think):smile:

Battlecorals · Oct 20, 2011

Gad to hear it about the montis. That is a great looking tank by the way.

I saw that lower bulkheads were for a CL but the actual returns you have plumbed look kind of low to me as well. Were you thinking along the lines of extending them up some inside the tank or something like that?

I am sure you'll figure out whatever you need to do.

good luck with the tank!

SunnyX · Oct 21, 2011

Great setup. I would love to swing by one of these days and check out the LEDs as I have the same dimensions.

I'm looking forward to the new pics.

Thanks,

Sonny

reeferdale · Oct 21, 2011

Battlecorals said:
Gad to hear it about the montis. That is a great looking tank by the way.

I saw that lower bulkheads were for a CL but the actual returns you have plumbed look kind of low to me as well. Were you thinking along the lines of extending them up some inside the tank or something like that?

I am sure you'll figure out whatever you need to do.

good luck with the tank!

I bought this tank used so this is what I have to live with, I am just making the best of what I have. And yes, I plan to add add risers and add a siphon break hole in them. Some of them I will add an elbow and some I am going to add a Tee. That way some will discharge closer to the top and some will remain lower. I would really like to find some black fittings and tubing to do this. I think ABS stiff is black. I am going to use white so I can get this running for a while, then I can switch it over to black. If you notice on the front view, there is a bulk head showing in the living room side. I have to just plug that hold and the best I could do was to use a bulk head. I was thinking of using weldon to fill the hole with a plug and add an MP40 there, but the bulk head actually looks better.

reeferdale · Oct 21, 2011

SunnyX said:
Great setup. I would love to swing by one of these days and check out the LEDs as I have the same dimensions.

I'm looking forward to the new pics.

Thanks,

Sonny

Sure, I can PM you when I get them running. In all honesty, it will be after the new year before this tank is running with LEDs. I sort of know who you are by name from here and MI REEF so I won't forget to let you know. As long as the LED project goes as planned, I should be able to help others in the SE MI area after the new year!

Battlecorals · Oct 21, 2011

reeferdale said:
I bought this tank used so this is what I have to live with, I am just making the best of what I have. And yes, I plan to add add risers and add a siphon break hole in them. Some of them I will add an elbow and some I am going to add a Tee. That way some will discharge closer to the top and some will remain lower. I would really like to find some black fittings and tubing to do this. I think ABS stiff is black. I am going to use white so I can get this running for a while, then I can switch it over to black. If you notice on the front view, there is a bulk head showing in the living room side. I have to just plug that hold and the best I could do was to use a bulk head. I was thinking of using weldon to fill the hole with a plug and add an MP40 there, but the bulk head actually looks better.

Right on man. I know how that goes. You might consider clear pvc and sch 80 fittings for inside the tank It cost a little more and will probably end up covered in coraline anyway but it looks pretty slick.

You could laminate a piece of acrylic over the hole on the inside. Once the tank is set up you will probably not even notice it.

reeferdale · Oct 21, 2011

Battlecorals said:
Right on man. I know how that goes. You might consider clear pvc and sch 80 fittings for inside the tank It cost a little more and will probably end up covered in coraline anyway but it looks pretty slick.

You could laminate a piece of acrylic over the hole on the inside. Once the tank is set up you will probably not even notice it.

yeah, I figure I can tank scape to cover a lot of it, and since it will all be covered in coraline after a while, it will blend in. Since this is getting really expensive already, I will probably just use the white stuff I already have and wait for it to blend in. But once it is done, I can always swap out the internal plumbing with clear or black. As for the extra hole, I am using the bulk head first, if I don't like how it looks, then I can try to patch it or fill it. I figured if I go this route with the bulk head then I still have other options. Once I patch, fill, or glue something on the hole, I am pretty much stuck with it.

I will need to contact you in the spring for some corals. I just need to get this setup and arrange all my current stuff first. I am probably going to get rid of a bunch of corals I already have when I transfer my 180 and 55 into the new tank so I should have some $$

Battlecorals · Oct 24, 2011

Once the tank if full of life, my guess is you wont even notice the bulkhead either. I'd probably just plug it too. You never know maybe you'll have a use for it sometime down the road.

Looking good so far!

About corals. Contact me anytime. :smile:

Reef Breeders · Oct 24, 2011

Definitely following this build!

reeferdale · Oct 26, 2011

OK, here some pics. I am stumped now on what is the best/correct way to plumb these inlets avoid a back siphon. I have three options
1. I have internal risers on all the bulkheads and they will have an anti-siphon hole drilled in them. It takes up room in the tank and I really do not like the look of all the PVC in the tank, even though I will cover most of it. I am sure this will work and would be safe.

this is the back of the tank. you can see all the PVC that has been added to the inside of the tank

this is the inside with all the PVC - keep in mind there are six of these inlets - a lot of junk to try to hide.
My other option is to do external siphon breaks. I like this idea (thanks to Jim, 'on the spot'). It will keep the inside of the tank clean. The issue is whether I can do just one break on the main inlet line, or if I need to do a break on each individual inlet line? I would hate to plumb this and find out the way I chose does not work. I would prefer to have just one break on the main pump line flowing into the tank. here are pics of the two options. I need some opinions on which one if either of these will even work.

single siphon break. Pipe is above water line and the tubing will be secured just below the water line

individual siphon breaks. Pipes can be raised above water line if needed for now the pipes are lower but each piece of tubing rises above the water line and will be secured just below the water line inside the tank.
The idea here is that once the water in the tanl drops below the flex tubing, theywill draw air into the main pump line into the tanl, and break the siphon. Once I get this tested and know that it works, I will also be adding a check valve to the pump return as a backup.

Reef Breeders · Oct 26, 2011

One check valve will do it, use the george fischer ones. It willrun you $75 for a 1.5" one, that will handle it all at once. Put it right before the elbow, it should work like a charm.

aquafrags · Oct 26, 2011

anemonekeeper said:
One check valve will do it, use the george fischer ones. It willrun you $75 for a 1.5" one, that will handle it all at once. Put it right before the elbow, it should work like a charm.

I agree, right off the discharge of the pump and no more back siphon worries

reeferdale · Oct 26, 2011

so if I were to raise the main 1 1/2" pipe from the pump to run along the top of the tank and feed the bulkheads from the top down, then I should not have any gravity issues, and the anti-siphon issues would be removed if I can just break the siphon with the airline intakes right?

I do not want a closed loop on this tank and I do not want to run >1 pump

reeferdale · Oct 26, 2011

so I have moved the plumbing to the top of the tank. This should eliminate any gravity feed issues, and I am going to try to use the single siphon break on the main discharge pipe. I can always mod this to add individual lines, as long as one of the lines introduces air into the pipe, then it should break the siphon. I will change the fitting on the pump outlet to a Y fitting and I am going to use spaflex to connect it to the top manifold. I just need to build some support for the top header pipe, maybe some acrylic tubing just to add a little support.
Anyone else with feedback please let me know. I am going to wait till the weekend to glue this up.

top plumbing - back of tank

top plumbing back of tank angled