Emergency

[Charlie G]

Hi. Looking for some help.
On 7/19. I noticed my orange hammer not opening. I also have a Goniopora not opening much. Rest of the corals seem ok.
I’ve posted this issue on R2R and it was suggested that it looked annoyed. Tabk parameters stable except for my phos dropping from its consistent 0.22 (for 8 months or more) to 0.1.
One suggestion was that a cleaner shrimp I introduced into the tank a couple of weeks prior may have been irritating it. The shrimp always hung around the hammer. It took some time but I finally caught it about a week ago.

On Tuesay, I noticed something coming out of the mouth. BJD?
I did a search on R2R. One protocol I saw that sounded promising was to:
Dip in 2 cups tank water and witch hazel (or peroxide) fir 15 min.
Then 2 cups tank water and 1/3 packet furan 2 for15 min.
Then dip in 2 cups tank water and iodine for 15 min. Rinse and put back. Repeat other days if necessary.

I did not have furan2 so did the peroxide and iodine.

I did that and looked ok. Still not opening much but not expelling anything else.

Then today I saw it expel ‘brown stuff’ again.
I’m including a picture and some video.

Hope someone can confirm if it’s BJD.

I dipped in peroxide and iodine again yesterday.

Question:
1- is it bjd
2-is this a death sentence or is there an accepted protocol. I would like a protocol where I remove from the tank and dip. Don’t want to medicate my tank unless absolutely necessary.
3-any other suggestions appreciated.
4-It’s been about 4 weeks. Is that the hammer has not opened. Is there anything more I can do.
I am attaching a picture of what it looked like before this happened l, what I first noticed and the last two pictures and the two videos are what I observed on Tuesday. . Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

the brown stuff comes from the mouth of the coral, that is poop. There is no mistaking brown jelly, it will literally like a blob of brown jello right on top of the coral. So if you been concerned since 7/19 about brown jelly, then put it out of your mind, brown jelly kills the coral in 1-2-3 days, hammer would be long gone, its not brown jelly.

If the coral is closed for 4 weeks, and all parameters are fine (your parameters not listed), then it comes down to lighting and flow. Have you tried a different spot in your tank yet?

 

[Charlie G]

the brown stuff comes from the mouth of the coral, that is poop. There is no mistaking brown jelly, it will literally like a blob of brown jello right on top of the coral. So if you been concerned since 7/19 about brown jelly, then put it out of your mind, brown jelly kills the coral in 1-2-3 days, hammer would be long gone, its not brown jelly.

If the coral is closed for 4 weeks, and all parameters are fine (your parameters not listed), then it comes down to lighting and flow. Have you tried a different spot in your tank yet?

 

[Charlie G]

Thank you so much for clarifying that.
I really am concerned that it hasn’t opened up for so long as I heard that itself can kill it.
The hammer was the best and most robust coral I had in my tank since October. absolutely beautiful.

Around the same time I put my shrimp in the DT I also changed the light schedule because I added a few coral frags (acros-for the first time) from

Biocube LED Schedule

1 (whites) 4 pm - 7 pm (16:00-19:00)
2 (colored/ramps) 3:30 pm - 11:30 pm (15:30-23:30)
3 (blues) 6 pm - 11:30 pm (18:00 - 23:30)
Total 8 hrs


Change to:
1 (whites) 12:30 pm - 6:30 pm (12:30-18:30)
2 (colored/ramps) 11:30 pm - 11:30 pm (11:30-23:30)
3 (blues) 12:30 pm - 10:30 pm (12:30 - 23:30)
Total 12 hrs (with 1 hour ramp before and after

Flow hasn’t changed. I have two Hygger wavemakers same position.

Last time I tested was 8/3
Salinity 1.026
Alk 8.4
Nitrate 9.4
Phos 0.09
For maybe a year my phos level live at 0.22 (with no issue with my Euphyllia. I also have a torch that’s doing well)

I will test maybe this morning but I usually test at night and always thought testing around same time important.

-maybe I can try changing the light schedule back to previous.
-any other suggestions ? I am happy to hear that it’s not BJD. I have never seen it before so wasn’t sure.

 

[trapphd]

It looks like a wall hammer, which are known to be difficult to keep long-term (especially compared to a branching hammer). Unfortunately, my wall had the same pattern — thrived for several months and then gradually diminished. There’s not really a lot you can do in terms of intervention, it’s just an issue with this type of hammer. Hoping for the best either way!

 

[Charlie G]

That’s ashame. It seemed to be so healthy and vibrant for a long time.

Anyone ever see it turn around? Wondering if there is anything else I can do to help it.

 

[kevgib67]

You didn’t share your calcium or magnesium values. If you haven’t tested you need to. I went through a period where my torches, hammers and frogspawn started retracting and not looking good. I found both my calcium and magnesium were suboptimal. I hadn’t been testing thinking my 12.5% water changes would keep it at the desirable level. I increased both and rose my magnesium above 1400 and they have never looked better.

 

[Northern Flicker]

For some reason, and this is anecdotal, my hammers do not appreciate strong white light. Everytime I try to adjust my whites higher, they expel zoo and start to bleach. Has happened 3 times.

 

[Charlie G]

Thanks for the reply.
Last time I tested Ca and Mg was 7/22

Ca 390 (dosed 3.3 oz)
Mg 1350 (dosed 8.7 to bring to 1450)

I dosed to bring Ca to about 420 and mMg to 1450.
Admittedly I have not tested since then as it wouldn’t change much and at times I felt that 15% water changes would take care of but I should not assume.

I will text tonight and follow more closely.

Also good point about the white lights. I had increase the time I kept white lights as I was trying to save some acro frags that I was trying my hand at. But traditionally I kept longer period of blue lights. That being said I have a Biocube 32 g with stock hood and lights so not much I variability. But my change to a longer light period, longer white light and the cleaner shrimp introduction were all new things that occurred over the pst 4-6 weeks. And those are things I can change to see if it brings a better response.

 

[Northern Flicker]

I think a lot of people who are having success with the Biocubes growing Acros are either switching the lights completely, or upgrading using Steve's Retro fit kit.

One tank off the top of my head is @90's reefer cube build (not a Biocube) which uses Noopsyches.

I know that's a huge diversion from what you have now, just thought I would bring it up in case it's helpful. It would mean removing the top, though, which can create new issues (jumpers, evap).

 

[kevgib67]

My Biocube grows birdsnest and monti cap well but I wouldn’t put an acro in it. Obviously Lps and softies do well also.

 

[X-37B]

I think a lot of people who are having success with the Biocubes growing Acros are either switching the lights completely, or upgrading using Steve's Retro fit kit.

One tank off the top of my head is @90's reefer cube build (not a Biocube) which uses Noopsyches.

I know that's a huge diversion from what you have now, just thought I would bring it up in case it's helpful. It would mean removing the top, though, which can create new issues (jumpers, evap).

First I know nothing of that light except from other reviews.

I would focus on stability and choose a range for each and focus on keeping them in range. This requires a plan.
This will require dosing. Take alook at A4R. Its a 1 part and I run it in my 20g. Very simple and stable results. I dose daily by hand.
Once stable you can test once a week.

I would also get enough KZ flatworm stop and run it for 6 months to start. It helps strengthen corals and may help your situation. It wont hurt or cause any unwanted issues in your system.

Lighting is hard to guess without a par meter. Going back to the old schedule wont hurt. Raise time by 30 minites every week or two until you reach your desired setting.

I only have a few lps. An almost 7 year old frogspawn and a 3 month old yellow hammer. Both are getting 200+ par with whites at 50%.

 

[Lavey29]

Numbers look good and tank looks healthy in the video. As others stated wall hammers are difficult to sustain compared to branching hammers. One thing I learned with all my hammers is they really prefer low flow. Just enough to gently sway them. When i had my flow a little higher my hammers struggled. Low flow and they have produced multiple heads of growth now. They sit in 125 to 160 par.

 

[Charlie G]

Hi all,

I love this community. I really appreciate the help and all I have learned from you.


-I’ll check all my parameters and keep them consistent.
-I’ll changed my lights back for now with more blue.
-not sure if flow an issue but can’t hurt to give it a break from the flow it has currently.
-any downside to kzflatworm? I’m always nervous adding anything to DT as it seems to be stable (and would like to avoid another stressor). Also goi g away for a week so want to leave the DT as safe as possible.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi. Looking for some help.
On 7/19. I noticed my orange hammer not opening. I also have a Goniopora not opening much. Rest of the corals seem ok.
I’ve posted this issue on R2R and it was suggested that it looked annoyed. Tabk parameters stable except for my phos dropping from its consistent 0.22 (for 8 months or more) to 0.1.
One suggestion was that a cleaner shrimp I introduced into the tank a couple of weeks prior may have been irritating it. The shrimp always hung around the hammer. It took some time but I finally caught it about a week ago.

On Tuesay, I noticed something coming out of the mouth. BJD?
I did a search on R2R. One protocol I saw that sounded promising was to:
Dip in 2 cups tank water and witch hazel (or peroxide) fir 15 min.
Then 2 cups tank water and 1/3 packet furan 2 for15 min.
Then dip in 2 cups tank water and iodine for 15 min. Rinse and put back. Repeat other days if necessary.

I did not have furan2 so did the peroxide and iodine.

I did that and looked ok. Still not opening much but not expelling anything else.

Then today I saw it expel ‘brown stuff’ again.
I’m including a picture and some video.

Hope someone can confirm if it’s BJD.

I dipped in peroxide and iodine again yesterday.

Question:
1- is it bjd
2-is this a death sentence or is there an accepted protocol. I would like a protocol where I remove from the tank and dip. Don’t want to medicate my tank unless absolutely necessary.
3-any other suggestions appreciated.
4-It’s been about 4 weeks. Is that the hammer has not opened. Is there anything more I can do.
I am attaching a picture of what it looked like before this happened l, what I first noticed and the last two pictures and the two videos are what I observed on Tuesday. . Any help or guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks

Wall hammer can be challenging even for the most experienced hobbyist. The calcium while not low a little low for this type of euphyllia. In addition assure not too much water current or bright light. They can tolerate medium intensity but not intense. In the pic, it seems to be expelling zooxanthelle often due to high brightness which causes this inner algae to overproduce and expel the excess algae
Verify phosphate and salinity is not elevated also

 

[Northern Flicker]

First I know nothing of that light except from other reviews.

Lighting is hard to guess without a par meter. Going back to the old schedule wont hurt. Raise time by 30 minites every week or two until you reach your desired setting.

PAR for the stock lights can apparently reach 300 at the waters surface for the 32g version, I've seen people grow Monti caps right near the surface. I've seen birdsnest a couple inches from the top.

Did a quick search and got wildly different results, some saying as low as 60 PAR 8" down and others much better, so not sure what to believe. I think the highest I've seen is 300 near the surface though, so I suppose you could grow Acros near the top.

Edit: here's a video OP might find helpful - he's getting 300+ 6" down and 100 at the sandbed

 

[Charlie G]

Thanks all.
I’ll check and correct parameters and bring the lights back to what I had before.

Once again I appreciate all the feedback. If you have more keep it coming.

I’ll be sure to post any findings or update.

It’s seems somewhat reassuring to an extent (I understand that wall hammers may behave this way) that it’s not BJD and that possibly can be corrected. Hopefully not too late.

 

[Charlie G]

Thanks for that info.

Checked parameters tonight
Salinity 1.026
Nitrate 12.1
Phos 0.08
Alk 7.4 (dosing it now to get it to 8.5)
Ca 380 (will dose to get to 420)
Mg 1395 (should I leave or aim for higher)

Will also change my light schedule back to what I had before which was about 8hrs mostly blue.

Anything else I can or should do at this point?

 

[vetteguy53081]

PAR for the stock lights can apparently reach 300 at the waters surface for the 32g version, I've seen people grow Monti caps right near the surface. I've seen birdsnest a couple inches from the top.

Did a quick search and got wildly different results, some saying as low as 60 PAR 8" down and others much better, so not sure what to believe. I think the highest I've seen is 300 near the surface though, so I suppose you could grow Acros near the top.

Edit: here's a video OP might find helpful - he's getting 300+ 6" down and 100 at the sandbed

Light range looks good. A couple tweaks you mentioned should help

 

[Charlie G]

Thanks all. Will keep you updated.

I do appreciate all the help.