Endless water level issues. Plumbers please help!

Punchanello · Apr 17, 2019

Hi everyone.

Here's a link to my previous thread on this -

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=569935&share_fid=1020&share_type=t

Still having major issue where the DT water level will be stable for 48hrs then suddenly rise (within a minute), draining the sump and dumping RO via the ATO. I've lost so many corals because of the constant change in salinity and it's been happening for months despite my best efforts.

Having cleaned every pipe and return pump many times, switched return pump and removed my filter socks and any other variable I believe it might be the stock gate valve. I know little about plumbing but this doesn't look like your standard gate valve. It has a rubber plate which presses against the opposite wall when the knob is turned constricting the flow.

Does anyone have any experience with these? Are they reliable? Is this what is usually used for this purpose? I'd like to know if possible before I rip out all the stock plumbing. The one in the pics is a spare. The one on the tank is hard plumbed and not a standard size metric plumbing I can get in Australia so if I have to switch it out it will be a major job.

Thanks for your help. I'm getting desperate and about to give up.

Brad Miller · Apr 17, 2019

Let’s first start with the valve in question....
The one you have is not at all a gate valve, it is a “manual, diaphragm, flow control valve.
In the USA, I don’t think we would have any of these in the reefing hobby.
Those are primarily used in a manufacturing environment that may be pumping acids or some corrosive liquid.

They work the same way as a gate or needle type valve just a bit more accurate....is the rubber still very flexible and free of dry rot cracks ?
If not, you’ll need a replacement diaphragm.

Firemanreefkeeper · Apr 17, 2019

It looks like every gate valve redsea uses on all their tanks. I liked them so much I bought another one and used it on my 75s gate system. Mine is really reliable and only gives me problems when a small snail or something gets stuck in it.
Do you have an emergency overflow along with this valve?

chinw76 · Apr 17, 2019

I went threw 2 of those on my Reefer 250. I gave up on those and installed a gate valve. Now I never have that issue again.

Punchanello · Apr 17, 2019

Brad Miller said:
Let’s first start with the valve in question....
The one you have is not at all a gate valve, it is a “manual, diaphragm, flow control valve.
In the USA, I don’t think we would any of these in the reefing hobby.
Those are primarily used in a manufacturing environment that may be pumping acids or some corrosive liquid.

They work the same way as a gate or needle type valve just a bit more accurate....is the rubber still very flexible and free of dry rot cracks ?
If not, you’ll need a replacement diaphragm.

No, no cracks and still flexible. I've been in touch with a few people having the same issues with the same tank. It seems like a common denominator.

Punchanello · Apr 17, 2019

chinw76 said:
I went threw 2 of those on my Reefer 250. I gave up on those and installed a gate valve. Now I never have that issue again.

Why did you give up on it? Similar issue?

Punchanello · Apr 17, 2019

Firemanreefkeeper said:
It looks like every gate valve redsea uses on all their tanks. I liked them so much I bought another one and used it on my 75s gate system. Mine is really reliable and only gives me problems when a small snail or something gets stuck in it.
Do you have an emergency overflow along with this valve?

Yes. Unfortunately even when the water level is set to just below the emergency level and then rises suddenly, it still lowers the sump enough to dump 10 -15 litres of RO.

chinw76 · Apr 17, 2019

The water level would never stay in place. I got a new one from Red Sea under warranty and it was worse. I ordered a fitting from them, ordered pipe and valve online. I no longer have issues. I keep the old pipe and valve for an emergency. I can turn off my return pump, turn it back on and my water level goes back to were it was.

MnFish1 · Apr 17, 2019

Never had a problem with mine - from redsea - that said I dont have an ATO - never will - for this reason.

Firemanreefkeeper · Apr 17, 2019

I let water trickle down my emergency overflow. It's just enough so that I can't hear it but it does run down it. Maybe try that and see if it helps.

DesertReefT4r · Apr 17, 2019

Remove that odd valve and put a good gate valve on it. I would bet money that is your problem.

Punchanello · Apr 18, 2019

DesertReefT4r said:
Remove that odd valve and put a good gate valve on it. I would bet money that is your problem.

God I hope so. This has been a nightmare

Ironworm · Apr 19, 2019

chinw76 said:
I went threw 2 of those on my Reefer 250. I gave up on those and installed a gate valve. Now I never have that issue again.

What is this piece called and what size did you get?

I am getting my tank today and want to remove the red sea valve.

Bossman · Apr 19, 2019

I have 3 Red Sea tanks. The Red Sea Manifolds were beyond impossible to set in my systems. Replaced with Spears gate valve and have had zero issues since.

Ironworm · Apr 19, 2019

What piece is needed to connect to red sea plumbing? I have circled a picture in a previous post.

Retro Reefer · Apr 19, 2019

Do you even need a valve on your return? I have never ran a valve on any of my my return lines, I would ditch it altogether if possible.

Bossman · Apr 19, 2019

Ironworm said:
What piece is needed to connect to red sea plumbing? I have circled a picture in a previous post.

The red sea manifold unscrews from the pipe. You will need: 3/4" male pipe thread to 1" female PVC adapter, a 1" spears gate valve, and a piece of 1" PVC approximately 3'. I bought the pvc pipe from Home Depot as a 3' section.

You remove the red sea manifold first leaving the down pipe intact. Wrap the 3/4" threaded PVC adapter about a dozen times with teflon tape and screw it into the down pipe. PVC glue a short (2") piece of pvc into the adapter you just installed. Glue the 1" valve onto the short piece of pvc. Then measure and glue the final piece of pvc pipe that will go down into the sump.

When I remove the downpipe, I measure the length of the total assembly and make it outside of the sump. Then I install it back into place. Once you understand this, it's very easy.

The reason you have to wrap the 3/4" thread with teflon tape so much is the red sea pipe thread is straight and not tapered like most pipe fittings. Red sea has an o'ring sealing this fitting on their assembly. Two of mine installed has small leaks. I had to remove and add more teflon tape to seal.

Ironworm · Apr 19, 2019

Bossman said:
The red sea manifold unscrews from the pipe. You will need: 3/4" male pipe thread to 1" female PVC adapter, a 1" spears gate valve, and a piece of 1" PVC approximately 3'. I bought the pvc pipe from Home Depot as a 3' section.

You remove the red sea manifold first leaving the down pipe intact. Wrap the 3/4" threaded PVC adapter about a dozen times with teflon tape and screw it into the down pipe. PVC glue a short (2") piece of pvc into the adapter you just installed. Glue the 1" valve onto the short piece of pvc. Then measure and glue the final piece of pvc pipe that will go down into the sump.

When I remove the downpipe, I measure the length of the total assembly and make it outside of the sump. Then I install it back into place. Once you understand this, it's very easy.

The reason you have to wrap the 3/4" thread with teflon tape so much is the red sea pipe thread is straight and not tapered like most pipe fittings. Red sea has an o'ring sealing this fitting on their assembly. Two of mine installed has small leaks. I had to remove and add more teflon tape to seal.

Great thank you, I will pick up some tape and get this done today...hopefully

7237689918 · Apr 19, 2019

Bossman said:
The red sea manifold unscrews from the pipe. You will need: 3/4" male pipe thread to 1" female PVC adapter, a 1" spears gate valve, and a piece of 1" PVC approximately 3'. I bought the pvc pipe from Home Depot as a 3' section.

You remove the red sea manifold first leaving the down pipe intact. Wrap the 3/4" threaded PVC adapter about a dozen times with teflon tape and screw it into the down pipe. PVC glue a short (2") piece of pvc into the adapter you just installed. Glue the 1" valve onto the short piece of pvc. Then measure and glue the final piece of pvc pipe that will go down into the sump.

When I remove the downpipe, I measure the length of the total assembly and make it outside of the sump. Then I install it back into place. Once you understand this, it's very easy.

The reason you have to wrap the 3/4" thread with teflon tape so much is the red sea pipe thread is straight and not tapered like most pipe fittings. Red sea has an o'ring sealing this fitting on their assembly. Two of mine installed has small leaks. I had to remove and add more teflon tape to seal.

Do you happen to have links for these parts needed?