Euphylia are dying gonna try chemiclean.

[Bombschell]

Couple days ago my frogspawn and hammer began looking pretty bad. Did all the usual stuff checked params, water change, etc... I had cleaned all my pumps and foam media and thought maybe a created a phosphate spike as it was high, then realized that the tube anemone we had recently got had vacated his old tube and that was in the sand and stunk when I dug it out. Did another water change and checked params again all good, but the euphylia still look bad. Noticed the frogspawn had lost some tentacles and had pink goo on the side where the tentacles we missing. So after having the params verified at lfs I figured I'd try some chemiclean to clear up any cyano....wish me luck please?

 

[Yates273]

How bad is the cyano. I wouldn’t rush into using chemicals that may stress corals out even more. If you can please list your parameters.

 

[Jekyl]

How bad is the cyano. I wouldn’t rush into using chemicals that may stress corals out even more. If you can please list your parameters.

This. Running chemiclean is just as likely to add stress as it is to solve your issue.

 

[MaxTremors]

I’d run some carbon and wait a week.

 

[Bombschell]

I run carbon.
Sg. 1.025
Ammo. 0
Nitrite. 0
Nitrate. ~5 ppm
Phosphate. .05
Dkh. 10.1
Ph. 8.2 (a little low, but it's pretty steady)

I use ro/di water. These guys have been doing well for the 2-3 months. It is a pretty new tank. I have been battling the uglies and a dino outbreak which I seem to be slowly getting ahead of. The stuff on the coral maybe brown goo disease but it does not seem to progress as fast there is definitely some goo on the skeleton that seems to work it's way up and kill the tentacles.

 

[dvgyfresh]

if it is BJD , look into cipro dosing it may help. Dino’s are also toxic / nasty little things that def could be the issue as well I have battle scars from them

 

[Jekyl]

I run carbon.
Sg. 1.025
Ammo. 0
Nitrite. 0
Nitrate. ~5 ppm
Phosphate. .05
Dkh. 10.1
Ph. 8.2 (a little low, but it's pretty steady)

I use ro/di water. These guys have been doing well for the 2-3 months. It is a pretty new tank. I have been battling the uglies and a dino outbreak which I seem to be slowly getting ahead of. The stuff on the coral maybe brown goo disease but it does not seem to progress as fast there is definitely some goo on the skeleton that seems to work it's way up and kill the tentacles.

Calcium and magnesium?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Any pics under white light ?
Cyano can make them unhappy but not matching what is happening. My suspicion is placement (no sand bed but at lower third of tank. Light and water flow are critical as will be Low Calcium
What are your numbers and what test kit(s) are you using ?
What is age of tank ?

There a few things to know when it comes to any euphyllia care. Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
I asked about age of tank because hammerand euphyllia require STABLE conditions. New tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Loaction as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Hammer is Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.

 

[Bombschell]

I have been raising nutrients and dosing copepods and photo to try and beat back the dinos. They no longer from they take much longer to came back after each cleaning, bit they still make the strings and those do irritate the corals, but I don't see matting or strings on the euphylia, just some goo on the skeleton and loosing tentacles.

 

[Bombschell]

Any pics under white light ?
Cyano can make them unhappy but not matching what is happening. My suspicion is placement (no sand bed but at lower third of tank. Light and water flow are critical as will be Low Calcium
What are your numbers and what test kit(s) are you using ?
What is age of tank ?

There a few things to know when it comes to any euphyllia care. Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
I asked about age of tank because hammerand euphyllia require STABLE conditions. New tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Loaction as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Hammer is Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.

They are not on sand bed they both get flow and have been happy for a while, you can see my build thread which was updated a week or so ago. Calcium was 500 at the lfs. The dkh and phosphate are tested on Hannah's the other api kit ( I know no one likes the api, but the readings were confirmed at the lfs and matched mine) I am considering just running the lights at ~20 or just shutting them down for 2-3 days before dosing the chemiclean, I am open to suggestions

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have been raising nutrients and dosing copepods and photo to try and beat back the dinos. They no longer from they take much longer to came back after each cleaning, bit they still make the strings and those do irritate the corals, but I don't see matting or strings on the euphylia, just some goo on the skeleton and loosing tentacles.

Dino or Cyano ?

 

[Bombschell]

Any pics under white light ?
Cyano can make them unhappy but not matching what is happening. My suspicion is placement (no sand bed but at lower third of tank. Light and water flow are critical as will be Low Calcium
What are your numbers and what test kit(s) are you using ?
What is age of tank ?

There a few things to know when it comes to any euphyllia care. Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
I asked about age of tank because hammerand euphyllia require STABLE conditions. New tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Loaction as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Hammer is Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.

 

[Bombschell]

Dino or Cyano ?

Well I don't have a microscope so so from anecdotal evidence and research on here and other places it appears a bit of both.

 

[vetteguy53081]

They are not on sand bed they both get flow and have been happy for a while, you can see my build thread which was updated a week or so ago. Calcium was 500 at the lfs. The dkh and phosphate are tested on Hannah's the other api kit ( I know no one likes the api, but the readings were confirmed at the lfs and matched mine) I am considering just running the lights at ~20 or just shutting them down for 2-3 days before dosing the chemiclean, I am open to suggestions

You said LFS confirmed readings. What test kits are they using?
Not sure why they are running 500 CA as that is very elevated.

 

[Adamantium]

While I have no strong ideas about this, an LFS owner near me swears by chemiclean for keeping his euphyllia healthy. He doses it on a constant basis.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Well I don't have a microscope so so from anecdotal evidence and research on here and other places it appears a bit of both.

This should very well help you:

Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly

 

[dvgyfresh]

Well I don't have a microscope so so from anecdotal evidence and research on here and other places it appears a bit of both.

In the nuisance algae forum there is a test to confirm if Dino’s or cyano

 

[vetteguy53081]

While I have no strong ideas about this, an LFS owner near me swears by chemiclean for keeping his euphyllia healthy. He doses it on a constant basis.

I add nothing and 36+ years- never heard this. These are just SOME of mine:

 

[Bombschell]

This is 13.5 gallon Evo that is basically stock. Your set up looks several orders of equipment , etc... Higher. You may have a algea scrubber and uv sterilizer and all that stuff I don't have. It is a beautiful tank though I am not being snarky. You just have resources and equipment that is not practical for an aio 13.5 gallon Fluval.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

what I got from this thread is an anemone died and fouled the water, so OP wants to dose chemiclean to fight cyano, although admits he has been increasing nutrients recently to fight dino's.

so I'm not sure what the problem is...