Euphyllia corals keep dying.

pachuca.adrian95

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Parameters:
Temp: 78°-80°
Ph: 8.2
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 2
Phosphate: 0.1
Salinity: 1.024
alkalinity: 8
And unfortunately I don't have calcium/magniusm tester.
.....
Now that most #'s have been established I'm hoping someone on here can help me find out why no euphyllia coral can live in my tank. Duncans, zoas, gonioporas, mushrooms, birds nest, blasto, clam, clove polyps, and a candy cane. Are all open and im assuming happy with both polyp extensions and feeding tentacles always out when I broadcast feed them. But when i try to add a euphyllia coral, be it a torch or hammer they perish within 3 to 5 days. My fish stock is 2 clarkii clowns, 1 blue throat trigger, 1 foxface, 2 hawkfish. Cuc stock is trochus snails, nassarius snails, hermit crabs, sea hare, cleaner shrimp,, peppermint shrimp,, coral banded shrimp,, and urchins.
 
Are the getting enough flow?? My euphyllia always died until I put it directly in front of the powerhead. The powerhead is just out of frame on the right.
A853F959-D086-4041-B0DD-6C7CDE26668D.jpeg
 
I had this same problem a while back and it was either some pathogen in the tank or some contaminant. I lost a couple and it didn't stop until I ran the gamut of significant water changes combined with polyfilters and running new carbon.
 
That's strange, All of our hammers and frogspawns do well in low to moderate flow, never high flow. What type of wavemaker are you using?

Your parameters look good outside of not knowing cal/mag
What type of water are you using? RODI?
Size of tank?
Lighting could also be an issue? What do you have over the tank?
 
Are the getting enough flow?? My euphyllia always died until I put it directly in front of the powerhead. The powerhead is just out of frame on the right.
A853F959-D086-4041-B0DD-6C7CDE26668D.jpeg
I'll try that when I get home, I have an ice cap gyre 2k (running vertical with the overflow box)
 
I had this same problem a while back and it was either some pathogen in the tank or some contaminant. I lost a couple and it didn't stop until I ran the gamut of significant water changes combined with polyfilters and running new carbon.
I recently reduced from 20% biweekly to 10% weekly And going to be upgrading from chemipure elite to chemipure blue see if that does anything.
BTW DT is 80gl and sump is filled with 20gl so I would say about 100 gallons total system.
 
That's strange, All of our hammers and frogspawns do well in low to moderate flow, never high flow. What type of wavemaker are you using?

Your parameters look good outside of not knowing cal/mag
What type of water are you using? RODI?
Size of tank?
Lighting could also be an issue? What do you have over the tank?
Thats what I thought which is why I always place them where I believe there is moderate flow at least. Maybe not enough. I have the return (simplicity 1000 dc) at full circulation and a ice cap 2k gyre running vertical. As for water well I am using lfs water and their tds meter is always 0 which is why i just get it from them till I purchase my own rodi unit. Would you think it could be the lfs water?
I have 1 hydra 32 and 2 led strips (for supplement) the hydra is running the ab+ settings. And the tank is a 80gl with 20 gal sump area
 
What kind of death are you seeing?

Try upping flow from the jebao if it’s the pump that’s closest to the Euphyllia. I have two sow-4 on a Nuvo 20 gallon at 100% and my Euphyllia have never looked more fluffy!
 
What kind of death are you seeing?

Try upping flow from the jebao if it’s the pump that’s closest to the Euphyllia. I have two sow-4 on a Nuvo 20 gallon at 100% and my Euphyllia have never looked more fluffy!
I'll take a pic of it when I get home, but its the kind where the tentacles retract all the way in and never come back out.
Jeabo is not mine lol, I have the ice cap 2k gyre it's running vertical at 25% should I up it? My concern are the gonis I have they seem to retract a little when i up the flow.
Or im thinking what if I turn it horizontal to the top?
 
Is there any brown looking stuff on them?

Does the skin receed up the stem first?

How old is your tank?
 
I only seen brown stuff on one of the first that died but I took it out and didn't put any back in for a while to see if it wouldn't come back. But the others that have died i haven't seen any brown stuff on them. And my latest one is receding again already but no brown stuff. The tank is 7 months in. I started putting everything thing after month 3 as I did the shrimp cycle method.
 
That's strange, All of our hammers and frogspawns do well in low to moderate flow, never high flow. What type of wavemaker are you using?

Your parameters look good outside of not knowing cal/mag
What type of water are you using? RODI?
Size of tank?
Lighting could also be an issue? What do you have over the tank?
Thats what I thought which is why I always place them where I believe there is moderate flow at least. Maybe not enough. I have the return (simplicity 1000 dc) at full circulation and a ice cap 2k gyre running vertical. As for water well I am using lfs water and their tds meter is always 0 which is why i just get it from them till I purchase my own rodi unit. Would you think it could be the lfs water?
I have 1 hydra 32 and 2 led strips (for supplement) the hydra is running the ab+ settings. And the tank is a 80gl with 20 gal sump area
My frogspawn, 2 hammers and Duncan all thrive in low flow. If your salinity and water parameters are fine, my bet would be either calcium or mg deficiency. I use rodi water for 90% of my tank and then will use tap with water conditioner for the remainder so I can get some minerals in the tank without dosing. I will dose a small amount of calcium once a month. You may have more algae growth with using water from tap but i don't mind because my corals look much better with it.
 
My frogspawn, 2 hammers and Duncan all thrive in low flow. If your salinity and water parameters are fine, my bet would be either calcium or mg deficiency. I use rodi water for 90% of my tank and then will use tap with water conditioner for the remainder so I can get some minerals in the tank without dosing. I will dose a small amount of calcium once a month. You may have more algae growth with using water from tap but i don't mind because my corals look much better with it.
Would you think its the lfs water then? I mean it's the only thing I don't have control over until get an rodi unit. But as stated above their tds meter is at 0. Also calcium and mag, as i havent got tester for that yet.
 
Would you think its the lfs water then? I mean it's the only thing I don't have control over until get an rodi unit. But as stated above their tds meter is at 0. Also calcium and mag, as i havent got tester for that yet.
If its at 0 then no. Whats your temp? I'm leaning towards deficient minerals or trace elements
 
Very odd that they would die in 4 or 5 days, while everything else is thriving, including a Duncan and especially a clam. That would not suggest a water quality problem to me. Perhaps something like your acclimation process or just poor specimens?
 
Jebao on the lowest setting, my tank is only a couple feet long.
E0478E05-0D84-4ECC-A23B-91D595D7F41D.jpeg
4C5DD481-4FB6-47C7-AB46-4960FA44DFB1.jpeg
The water flow shown is way too low. You have it on lowest possible setting.
Moderate light and water flow is they ask for
 
The water flow shown is way too low. You have it on lowest possible setting.
Moderate light and water flow is they ask for
I’ve tried turning it up higher and the whole tank gets angry for days :(. The tank is only about a foot and a half long so I guess this is good. My other tanks have powerheads on way higher settings and they are happy idk why this one isn’t
 
Would you think its the lfs water then? I mean it's the only thing I don't have control over until get an rodi unit. But as stated above their tds meter is at 0. Also calcium and mag, as i havent got tester for that yet.
I was thinking calcium or magnesium. Get test kits!
 
I’ve tried turning it up higher and the whole tank gets angry for days :(. The tank is only about a foot and a half long so I guess this is good. My other tanks have powerheads on way higher settings and they are happy idk why this one isn’t
even one notch should help.
 

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