Evergrow full spectrum led 120w.

I've been looking into diy and although somewhat pricey 8 channels doesn't have to look ugly (dependent on how long you want the heatsink/fixture) look into markers led (MakersLED | The Versatile LED Fixture System). They try to make diy look pretty nice in my opinion. Let me know what you guys think. I've been following you two led gurus quite a bit...and I've got a quick question that I haven't been able to find in any of your post.

How many EG D120 for a 48" x 24" x 24" 120 gallon Mixed Reef (some SPS, not all). I haven't set it up yet...but instead of buying bulbs, I'm looking into relatively less expensive LED options.

Thanks guys,

Luis
 
I've been looking into diy and although somewhat pricey 8 channels doesn't have to look ugly (dependent on how long you want the heatsink/fixture) look into markers led (MakersLED | The Versatile LED Fixture System). They try to make diy look pretty nice in my opinion. Let me know what you guys think. I've been following you two led gurus quite a bit...and I've got a quick question that I haven't been able to find in any of your post.

How many EG D120 for a 48" x 24" x 24" 120 gallon Mixed Reef (some SPS, not all). I haven't set it up yet...but instead of buying bulbs, I'm looking into relatively less expensive LED options.

Thanks guys,

Luis

I successfully built a DIY 12" 4 channel fixture that has a very clean look. I could not successfully build a 60" 7 channel fixture, because even with a Makersled heatsink, wiring it all across the fixture underneath became very ugly, very quickly. Someone with better construction skills could make it work, but I couldn't, and it was taking too much time.

It was much cleaner, and not much more $ to just go with the two fixtures I have. They have more than enough power and PAR, so my DIY fixture would have been overkill. Eventually, if an affordable multi-channel fixture with smartphone control comes along, I'll upgrade, but so far I'm very pleased.

I also never took into account resale value with DIY. With fully manufactured fixtures, they are much easier to sell used. I still can't get rid of my DIY light months later.
 
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Back in Dec of 2012 I switched from years of 1300W of MH, t5 and led stunners to 2 EverGrow (EG) IT2080's for my 180g DT with equal parts sps, lps and softies. I love them so much I switched my 70g anemone tank to an IT2040, my 55g local tank to 2 D120's and my 24g frag tank to a D120 as well. However, I have since switched my frag tank to an OceanRevive Arctic S026 and I like it better as a basic fixture. It's slimmer (I think it looks better), and even though the EG units are quiet and run pretty cool, the S026 is dead quiet and after 10 hours at 100% power (just as a test, not over my tank) it was as cool as room temperature! I plan on getting 2 more for over the 55g local tank. The other advantage is the metal case is 2" wider than the D120 and the leds are spread out over the entire face rather than all bunched up in the middle as they are on the D120. So you get a better spread of light and a bit bigger footprint as well. When they come out with fixtures with controllers in the future I'll consider them too. OceanRevive is a new sponsor here on R2R as well. They are a US based company and their website is here:
OCEANREVIVE LED

That fixture seems to have a true heat sink in it too....
I dont see what leds and colors it uses?
 
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That fixture seems to have a true heat sink in it too....
I dont see what leds and colors it uses?

Actually, 4 heat sinks. I tested mine at 100% power for 8 hours and my pyrometer said the top surface of the light was 2-3F warmer than the room air temp, 78F. It's a well built fixture.

Is this what you wanted to see? I hope it helps. From the OR website:
Arctic-S026 LED Aquarium Light_Aquarium LED_OCEANREVIVE LED

L
ook just under where it says 'Add to cart' and there are four subjects which give more info. Click on 'Specifications'. BTW, I had a hard time finding it too. I ended up asking Bo at OR!:wave:
 
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Actually, 4 heat sinks. I tested mine at 100% power for 8 hours and my pyrometer said the top surface of the light was 2-3F warmer than the room air temp, 78F. It's a well built fixture.

Is this what you wanted to see? I hope it helps. From the OR website:
Arctic-S026 LED Aquarium Light_Aquarium LED_OCEANREVIVE LED

L
ook just under where it says 'Add to cart' and there are four subjects which give more info. Click on 'Specifications'. BTW, I had a hard time finding it too. I ended up asking Bo at OR!:wave:

No what type of leds (cree birdgelux) and what is the color combo? I don't see it on their site or I am looking in the wrong place.

Yea the heat sink looks good in that fixture and is what most the Chinese led fixtures are missing. Most of these Chinese fixtures will not last without a good heat sink. They may be cheap and put out good par at first but it wont last without a good heat sink and proper cooling.
 
No what type of leds (cree birdgelux) and what is the color combo? I don't see it on their site or I am looking in the wrong place.

Yea the heat sink looks good in that fixture and is what most the Chinese led fixtures are missing. Most of these Chinese fixtures will not last without a good heat sink. They may be cheap and put out good par at first but it wont last without a good heat sink and proper cooling.

Go here:


Arctic-S026 LED Aquarium Light_Aquarium LED_OCEANREVIVE LED

Scroll down just a bit and look just under where it says 'Add to cart' and there are four subjects which give more info. Click on 'Specifications'.

And if you still can't find it, it says:
[TABLE="width: 100%"]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Red 660nm[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]2pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Green 520nm[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]2pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Royal Blue 450nm[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]24pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Violet 420nm[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]4pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Cool White 12000K[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]8pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Neutral White 7500K[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]4pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]Warm White 3500K[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]4pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: f1, width: 25%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]LED Quantity[/TD]
[TD="width: 75%, bgcolor: #f9f8f8, align: left"]48pcs[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
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Beginning to regret the radions because they are sick a pain to program. The connection manager never works for me.
 
I'm not sold on the OceanRevive color choices Ron. I added 14k leds into my fixture, and the results were not optimal for my coral. I wouldn't suspect 12k to be much better.

I wouldn't trust anything beyond a good neutral to keep color, and 4 violets aren't enough.
 
Beginning to regret the radions because they are sick a pain to program. The connection manager never works for me.

I had a Radion pro and photon32 side by side in my tank, and I sold my Radion Pro. Connecting via USB to the light to make any changes and to see what was going on annoyed the crap out of me. The photon puts out the same PAR numbers too.
 
The connection manager is very unreliable for me and that's the worst part. Patience I hope will pay off in this case and I'm certainly not ditching them yet but I wish I just got bulbs for my halides and i would have saved around 900 bucks
 
Besides being able to program...what is the difference between getting 2 lets say photon 16 (or 1 photon32) and getting 2 d120

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
 
Besides being able to program...what is the difference between getting 2 lets say photon 16 (or 1 photon32) and getting 2 d120

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3
Honestly not all that much, just the number of LED's and the ability to fine tune controlling.
 
When I switched from MH & t5 to all leds 8 months ago, I got IT2080's (same as the Photon32) for my main DT and D120's for my FT and QT. I want the fun of sunrise and sunset control in the DT because I live with it. I'm happy just having dimmer control and 2 channels on timers for the FT & QT as they are in a spare bedroom. It's almost all about personal choice, they both do the job.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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