Everlasting diatoms….. I think

csinclair

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Moved everything from my 45 to 120 over 3 months ago. These diatoms will not go away no matter what I do. I’m starting to think I’m doing too much. Running phosguard and chemi pure elite.

ph 8.4
Alk 9.5
Cal 440
Nitrates reading zero
I have a phosphate test kit coming.

I have vacuumed them out. They come back.
What am I missing here? They’ve always just went away in all my tanks…

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I’ve actually been looking at them on bulk reef supply. I’m about to pull the trigger
 
Phosguard has been responsible for putting my aluminum to 200ppm and keeping my tank from growing corals for a long time. I would rinse and rinse and rinse and rinse and rinse and then put it in my reactor. It did not tumble or anything crazy. Removing it and waterchanging out the aluminum content made my tank turn on a dime. It's doing great now! As for the phosphate, macroalgae uses both NO3 and PO4 to grow but can't grow without the former. Feed more, grow algae, succeed. That was my recent battle. Ultimately I had to understand that corals need nitrate and phosphate themselves as well. There are upper limits that get discussed frequently but there are definitely lower limits as well that I do not feel are addressed as thoroughly. You cannot starve your tank. 0 nitrate is a dead giveaway to me at least why you have dino's. Been there. All I run for filtration now is my filter roller, a chaeto fuge and my skimmer. Oh and some marinepur balls but who knows with those.
 
Have you considered more biological filtration? Perhaps a marine pure block or more live rock in the sump.
 
Phosguard has been responsible for putting my aluminum to 200ppm and keeping my tank from growing corals for a long time. I would rinse and rinse and rinse and rinse and rinse and then put it in my reactor. It did not tumble or anything crazy. Removing it and waterchanging out the aluminum content made my tank turn on a dime. It's doing great now! As for the phosphate, macroalgae uses both NO3 and PO4 to grow but can't grow without the former. Feed more, grow algae, succeed. That was my recent battle. Ultimately I had to understand that corals need nitrate and phosphate themselves as well. There are upper limits that get discussed frequently but there are definitely lower limits as well that I do not feel are addressed as thoroughly. You cannot starve your tank. 0 nitrate is a dead giveaway to me at least why you have dino's. Been there. All I run for filtration now is my filter roller, a chaeto fuge and my skimmer. Oh and some marinepur balls but who knows with those.
I actually tried to grow some chaeto. Now I know why it wasn’t growing ‍♂️
 
As others indicated here, you need some nitrate and phosphate in the tank or you are destined for problems as I have experienced. I removed my chemipure and just relying on carbon bag in the sump and my skimmer. 6.1 nitrate and .12 phosphate now and tank is responding very nicely.
 
I’m curious to see what my phosphate will be. I’m assuming next to nothing.
 
Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
 
IME dino's appear when you bottom out your nutrients and then stay until they're outcompeted. Raising nutrient levels, instituting a fuge and continually blowing them off their perch have always killed them for me.
To elaborate, dinoflagellates are protists organisms -those that do not fit within the three natural kingdoms: animalia, plantae or fungus- with ability to move with rotating movements. All dinoflagellates have the common feature of having two flagella located at right angles allowing them to perform such rotational movement which makes them easily recognizable (although some species such as the genus symbiodinium they are virtually immobile).
There are about 2.400 species which have a highly variable size ranging from 20 and 300 µm in the most common ones and up to 2 mm in the case of species such as noctiluca. In the marine aquarium species are usual smaller as symbiodinium and Amphidinium, While some like ostreopsis are large and can be seen without a microscope (with good lighting and visual acuity).
The problem arises when conditions in the aquarium break the biological balance and some dinoflagellate species spread uncontrollably, smothering the rest of the aquarium inhabitants. If the dinoflagellate species in question has the ability to produce toxins (usual in ostreopsis, gambierdiscus and prorocentrum to name a few)
The problem often arises when we try to bring cleanliness it to the limit, in order to improve its appearance and color of corals.
They tend to occur suddenly when the aquarium water reaches an extraordinary cleanliness, in which most microorganisms perishes for lack of food. With no other organisms that can stop them, this type of dinoflagellate can multiply so fast that when we realize it's late and we will find an aquarium full of brown and ochre slime suffocating fish and invertebrates. These dinoflagellates possess chloroplasts enabling them to synthesize their own food even under a minimal amount of light. Some species can form cysts called pellicles which allow them to remain in the aquarium for months although we have completely sterilized or kept in complete darkness. Once the light or the right conditions come back, they will reappear and thus problems.
Most of these dinoflagellates have a very curious behavior, typical of pathogens and parasites. With the presence of light they secrete mucus which adhere to any surface, including algae, coral and fish. They spend hours synthesising food and extending vertically in search of the light source (if we turn off the pumps in the aquarium we can see brown filaments grow towards the surface). When the light source disappears and can no longer synthesize food, it begins to diminish to none.
 
Should I lose the phosguard and chemipure?
Yes never needed it ever. What you have is sort of a new cycle thing, since the sand does not have as much bacteria on it, it grows diatoms It did it to me for a brief period when i moved my 100 to my 210. Even with well used substrate. You might try Vibrant since it has the good bacteria in it. I treated it like cyano when i had it, a little light dose of chemi clean stopped it.
 
UPDATE:
So I received my phosphate kit. First reading on 10/28 was 0.09 This was a day before my weekly water change.

Todays readings has Phosphate at .16 and Nitrate at 2 ppm

I removed my media reactor completely and only have a bag of carbon in sump. For the most part my sand is cleaner but my back glass is night and day compared to my original post.

Thoughts? Are my nitrates getting too high?
 
UPDATE:
So I received my phosphate kit. First reading on 10/28 was 0.09 This was a day before my weekly water change.

Todays readings has Phosphate at .16 and Nitrate at 2 ppm

I removed my media reactor completely and only have a bag of carbon in sump. For the most part my sand is cleaner but my back glass is night and day compared to my original post.

Thoughts? Are my nitrates getting too high?
2ppm nitrates is fine, I keep my tanks around 20ppm and everything is doing well
 

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