Everyone’s favorite lights

[Zach W]

Yes I have a degree in biology, micro biology, and I have graduated medical school. It’s a fun debate, it will make you work even harder because my tank is much deeper than yours as well. (From what I have read). If your so into science than you should be able to apply scientific facts not speculation. Which means we both can do math so I guess it’s all about the math now. Now I tried to find more examples, some don’t list the wattage but this one does. It takes 22 watts, but this shows even electric fans consume wattage. So Ecotech actually use cofan as their cooling fans. I choose on higher and it still takes 16 watts.

Here ya go, the OEM fans that run the radions are Cofan like you said, but it is 12V, 0.35A. So max power it takes 4.2W

I mean this is just silly, please show me a acropora dominant tank running current USA fixtures. 0.5W LEDs just don’t put out the power that is needed. That’s why you typically see radions, Orpheks, reefbreeders, etc.

 

[Waynerock]

Got a few prime 16’s and loving them

 

[Sarah24!]

Well you can always look at my 240 gallon tank with all my sps in it, not to mention Boise aquarium. Seattle aquarium, and Portland aquarium for starters. If you read my post I said I selected the model higher. Simply because I couldn’t find one with the actually wattage listed. It’s not silly, radions are no better than other lights unless you want bells and whistles. You can see my thread, i have a maximus clam 24 inches down in my tank, and my lights are at 30%. You know why it’s not silly, because you express to people that they can only have a nice tank with radions or most expensive light. It is simply not true, we all know it. If you like them great keep them, but my tank has grown just as fast if not faster than others who started the same time I have and we have a mixed reef with acorpora also. I have some
Of them 20 inches down and they do fine. So your goal is to what, prove your better because you have radion? Who cares lol, my lights grow coral just as good if not better than the almighty godly radion. As others stated it doesn’t matter what the wattage is, but if I’m getting 100-120 par at the bottom of my tank and it’s consistent that’s all I care about. Yes the par on my sand bed is 100-120 par and my tank is 34 inches tall, and lights are at 30% white and 100% blue. Nobody needs radion lights to have a successful sps tank or mixed reef, which ever. Maybe now you will see the light.

 

[Zach W]

Well you can always look at my 240 gallon tank with all my sps in it, not to mention Boise aquarium. Seattle aquarium, and Portland aquarium for starters. If you read my post I said I selected the model higher. Simply because I couldn’t find one with the actually wattage listed. It’s not silly, radions are no better than other lights unless you want bells and whistles. You can see my thread, i have a maximus clam 24 inches down in my tank, and my lights are at 30%. You know why it’s not silly, because you express to people that they can only have a nice tank with radions or most expensive light. It is simply not true, we all know it. If you like them great keep them, but my tank has grown just as fast if not faster than others who started the same time I have and we have a mixed reef with acorpora also. I have some
Of them 20 inches down and they do fine. So your goal is to what, prove your better because you have radion? Who cares lol, my lights grow coral just as good if not better than the almighty godly radion. As others stated it doesn’t matter what the wattage is, but if I’m getting 100-120 par at the bottom of my tank and it’s consistent that’s all I care about. Yes the par on my sand bed is 100-120 par and my tank is 34 inches tall, and lights are at 30% white and 100% blue. Nobody needs radion lights to have a successful sps tank or mixed reef, which ever. Maybe now you will see the light.

In your other posts you also mention using 3 other fluval lights to supplement your lighting. So are you running 5 lights on these par readings?

Do I think your lying about your par? No, but I disprove what you say and then you just pivot to the next thing. Your claim that the 4117 are more powerful then the radions is technically true, they have 200W at peak power. But when you take a second to look this is coming from two fixtures that are both 6’ long! They only run 0.5W LEDs. And lighting a 6’ tank for $800 is relatively cheap. You then said a large portion of the power for the radions is going to run the fan, and again that was not true. And the radions have more LED’s at different wavelengths than the model 4117 (violet and green) so you have more spectral control. I still don’t understand the “better spectrum” as all channels can be individually tuned.

Obviously there are multiple ways to light and run tanks. And I am not some Radion lover, I am planning a tank upgrade and will not be using radions, so I am not sure where you got that from. I will be running either orpheks or ReeFi duo extreme’s. I am just combating misinformation, and I would love to see the model 6113 that you have mentioned. All of my searches came up totally blank. Pontificating in all of your responses does not make you correct, and your degrees, while impressive, do not correlate to aquarium lighting. I am also not saying that I know everything because I surely don’t.

I hope you have a lovely holiday!

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

Umm maybe read more because I no longer have the fluval 2.0 as supplemental, I have three of the main pros 4114. Yes I missed typed when I said 6113 no idea how I did that. How are you combating misinformation? As I have stated that I beta tested my lights. Which I know you grasp what that is. When I tested these I asked for the different blue spectrums, and my leds are not .5w leds those are in the first series. Since we are bound on correct INFO, each 4114 was 800, so in short if I had paid for all 3 it would have been 2400. I was asked to test them and received 2 which I also tested in a controlled environment with a ly-core 1500 par meter. I compared them to radions and with the spectrum I asked not only for 445nm and 453 but I also have 400, 420, 440, 460 nm plus added in extra uv as well. None of my leds are .5watts. Some are 1.5 watts others are three watts. Now my thread has 209 pages. As we both are in scientific field all statements are usually supported by facts. However in my thread I removed the fluvals and used three of the 4114 leds. Which proved to be hard because it was extremely more powerful than I realized.
To be truthfully honest I’m not aware of others released actually include the extra 400nm that would enhance them more.

Yes I’m not an expert on lights, and you having a chemistry degree is just as impressive. I’m not an expert on leds, but one of my main arguments on my theists and to show support is different wave lengths compared normal aka consumer lights and high end. I had no idea the lights I tested from current were 800 each. But testing them side by side in a controlled environment, with same rock structure and same corals, the tank with current usa kept pace with the tanks with radions and in several case studies out performed them. As far as being aka programmable or being individualized, they have none compares to radions. But if one wants bells and whistles, yes the radions are better. If one wants to compare growth, health and color there isn’t much difference. In the setup we used, the water was linked to both tanks so parameters were the same. Now on my lights I was given the 4117 ramp timer which takes two of the 100 watt power bricks. One powers channel one and one powers channel 2 and honestly that part sucks because it takes up soo many plug ins and it’s a wiring night mare. The only one that has one power supply is my center light because I use it for blues only.

My intent was never to be correct, or think hahah I’m right. If you have seen my posts I’m not that way. What I wanted to accomplish to other reefers, and newbies is that, you don’t need name brand super expensive items to make a reef. Keeping a reef means nothing of you have radions or even my lights. There are several things that take place. Not to often, well it’s all the time is, people get an impression that if they Buy radions then they will have an amazing tank. This is far from the truth, I mean Chinese black boxes do a fabulous job and super powerful. (Also depends on which one). All the time when we see people struggling more times than not, people say go to Ecotech. But they have not found the problem yet. There are tons of issues with the bells and whistles on radion g4 system. if the person is a whiz, sure but most have no idea and cook their corals. Heck mine will back a cake if I put it under them. Reefing doesn’t have to be expensive.

I am going to build a 425 which j have the tank, but currently in a major setback. But the lights I have for that are the new super high end mitas ghl x7 lights which I have four of them. I’d love to supplement with t5 but not sure how to work that.

I’m here to help anyone who needs it, but I’d go out of my way to help those who can’t afford much, but deserve to have a gorgeous reef like others experience. I may have come off as (trying to be correct), wasn’t intended, again main argument is when people ask for light suggestions, 1.) thats such a loaded question it’s insane. 2.) there are tons of lights and they should actually view the ones interested. 3.) every tank is different and will appear totally different. Too often we post pics of our tanks and they oh wow I want that and buy radions or whatever. But they (if new), won’t know this, does that mean we make them spend 2400 or more in lights?

 

[Zach W]

Hello,

Umm maybe read more because I no longer have the fluval 2.0 as supplemental, I have three of the main pros 4114. Yes I missed typed when I said 6113 no idea how I did that. How are you combating misinformation? As I have stated that I beta tested my lights. Which I know you grasp what that is. When I tested these I asked for the different blue spectrums, and my leds are not .5w leds those are in the first series. Since we are bound on correct INFO, each 4114 was 800, so in short if I had paid for all 3 it would have been 2400. I was asked to test them and received 2 which I also tested in a controlled environment with a ly-core 1500 par meter. I compared them to radions and with the spectrum I asked not only for 445nm and 453 but I also have 400, 420, 440, 460 nm plus added in extra uv as well. None of my leds are .5watts. Some are 1.5 watts others are three watts. Now my thread has 209 pages. As we both are in scientific field all statements are usually supported by facts. However in my thread I removed the fluvals and used three of the 4114 leds. Which proved to be hard because it was extremely more powerful than I realized.
To be truthfully honest I’m not aware of others released actually include the extra 400nm that would enhance them more.

Yes I’m not an expert on lights, and you having a chemistry degree is just as impressive. I’m not an expert on leds, but one of my main arguments on my theists and to show support is different wave lengths compared normal aka consumer lights and high end. I had no idea the lights I tested from current were 800 each. But testing them side by side in a controlled environment, with same rock structure and same corals, the tank with current usa kept pace with the tanks with radions and in several case studies out performed them. As far as being aka programmable or being individualized, they have none compares to radions. But if one wants bells and whistles, yes the radions are better. If one wants to compare growth, health and color there isn’t much difference. In the setup we used, the water was linked to both tanks so parameters were the same. Now on my lights I was given the 4117 ramp timer which takes two of the 100 watt power bricks. One powers channel one and one powers channel 2 and honestly that part sucks because it takes up soo many plug ins and it’s a wiring night mare. The only one that has one power supply is my center light because I use it for blues only.

My intent was never to be correct, or think hahah I’m right. If you have seen my posts I’m not that way. What I wanted to accomplish to other reefers, and newbies is that, you don’t need name brand super expensive items to make a reef. Keeping a reef means nothing of you have radions or even my lights. There are several things that take place. Not to often, well it’s all the time is, people get an impression that if they Buy radions then they will have an amazing tank. This is far from the truth, I mean Chinese black boxes do a fabulous job and super powerful. (Also depends on which one). All the time when we see people struggling more times than not, people say go to Ecotech. But they have not found the problem yet. There are tons of issues with the bells and whistles on radion g4 system. if the person is a whiz, sure but most have no idea and cook their corals. Heck mine will back a cake if I put it under them. Reefing doesn’t have to be expensive.

I am going to build a 425 which j have the tank, but currently in a major setback. But the lights I have for that are the new super high end mitas ghl x7 lights which I have four of them. I’d love to supplement with t5 but not sure how to work that.

I’m here to help anyone who needs it, but I’d go out of my way to help those who can’t afford much, but deserve to have a gorgeous reef like others experience. I may have come off as (trying to be correct), wasn’t intended, again main argument is when people ask for light suggestions, 1.) thats such a loaded question it’s insane. 2.) there are tons of lights and they should actually view the ones interested. 3.) every tank is different and will appear totally different. Too often we post pics of our tanks and they oh wow I want that and buy radions or whatever. But they (if new), won’t know this, does that mean we make them spend 2400 or more in lights?

I wish you the best. If you have any concrete information about your pre production lights in the way of spec sheets or anything to back up these claims I would love to see them. I have looked extensively for any published information to back up these specifications you are throwing out and I have struck out completely.

The only published information is that the 4114 is the single variant to the 4117 which is just two 6’ fixtures. And that the 4117 takes two 100W power bricks because each fixture runs off of 100W of power which I have already mentioned and put my supporting info.

Side note the 72” fixture has 180 diodes and if they were each 1.5W or 3W you would need more than the 200W provided for each fixture like you are stating...

I can’t outright dispute your claims, besides above, but you have put no actual facts to prove you case besides your many words. We have not gotten anywhere in this conversation so if you can’t even agree that we disagree, then we just disagree.

Again if you have anything that can show me (besides your words) that this current USA fixture actually uses a mixture of 1.5W and 3W diodes, 6 unique wavelengths between 400nm-460nm, and power consumption like you are stating I would gladly tell you I was mistaken. Anyway I hope you have a great day and Merry Christmas!

 

[aslmx]

250- Radiums

 

[Sarah24!]

I wish you the best. If you have any concrete information about your pre production lights in the way of spec sheets or anything to back up these claims I would love to see them. I have looked extensively for any published information to back up these specifications you are throwing out and I have struck out completely.

The only published information is that the 4114 is the single variant to the 4117 which is just two 6’ fixtures. And that the 4117 takes two 100W power bricks because each fixture runs off of 100W of power which I have already mentioned and put my supporting info.

Side note the 72” fixture has 180 diodes and if they were each 1.5W or 3W you would need more than the 200W provided for each fixture like you are stating...

I can’t outright dispute your claims, besides above, but you have put no actual facts to prove you case besides your many words. We have not gotten anywhere in this conversation so if you can’t even agree that we disagree, then we just disagree.

Again if you have anything that can show me (besides your words) that this current USA fixture actually uses a mixture of 1.5W and 3W diodes, 6 unique wavelengths between 400nm-460nm, and power consumption like you are stating I would gladly tell you I was mistaken. Anyway I hope you have a great day and Merry Christmas!

Well, if my lights suck so bad explain how my reef does so well? I’m running a mixed reef with high light sps. Most of these are 12 inches plus from the water line. You realize, it’s hard to find data info on items that have since been discontinued. The sheet your looking at was a teaser sheet before it was even released. With out you have the full data sheet, on radions and how that wattage is dispersed, you can’t back up your side either.

But I beta test countless items, and I have found companies that are less known drastically underrate items. It has to meet a bare minimum, that doesn’t mean it can’t produce more. My point is, radions are not the godly light Ecotech makes it out to be. It’s morally and ethically wrong to give people a false hope. Using those lights will give them a nice reef, spending tons of money, because people want a gorgeous reef, spend tons of money then set it and forget it. It’s all automated and some people don’t want the work required. My entire tank is doing well, not just because of my lights but that I spend the time on it. (Granted that has changed in the last 2 months to where I can’t do any of it physically, but that’s another story).

You know even from a research stand point, do you think either company is going to make public how their systems work? Some of that information is proprietary, but they can say 190w power supply because they have that. But they won’t actually list where all that wattage goes. Theeee only thing that can possibly make the light more effective is the option to not use green or red which ever color and apply it to other channels, but an led can only handle so much wattage and current. Even if you have a 3 watt cree led, you can’t give it 4 watts, it can not handle the wattage and would sense destroy it and or heat would destroy it.

I’m curious do you have any pics of your reef?

 

[symon_say]

Kessil ap700 gets my vote.

 

[Zach W]

Well, if my lights suck so bad explain how my reef does so well? I’m running a mixed reef with high light sps. Most of these are 12 inches plus from the water line. You realize, it’s hard to find data info on items that have since been discontinued. The sheet your looking at was a teaser sheet before it was even released. With out you have the full data sheet, on radions and how that wattage is dispersed, you can’t back up your side either.

But I beta test countless items, and I have found companies that are less known drastically underrate items. It has to meet a bare minimum, that doesn’t mean it can’t produce more. My point is, radions are not the godly light Ecotech makes it out to be. It’s morally and ethically wrong to give people a false hope. Using those lights will give them a nice reef, spending tons of money, because people want a gorgeous reef, spend tons of money then set it and forget it. It’s all automated and some people don’t want the work required. My entire tank is doing well, not just because of my lights but that I spend the time on it. (Granted that has changed in the last 2 months to where I can’t do any of it physically, but that’s another story).

You know even from a research stand point, do you think either company is going to make public how their systems work? Some of that information is proprietary, but they can say 190w power supply because they have that. But they won’t actually list where all that wattage goes. Theeee only thing that can possibly make the light more effective is the option to not use green or red which ever color and apply it to other channels, but an led can only handle so much wattage and current. Even if you have a 3 watt cree led, you can’t give it 4 watts, it can not handle the wattage and would sense destroy it and or heat would destroy it.

I’m curious do you have any pics of your reef?

I never once said you don’t have a nice reef, and further more I never trashed the current lights either. I was simply disputing the fact that you claimed the currents put out more par and the spectrum is better. Honestly I’m jealous you have such a big tank, I wish I had room for that. But what can’t I back up? I’ve literally provided data for every point that I have made.

You say you have a beta tester version of 4117, and that the spec sheet I’m referencing (provided by Current USA for model 4117) rates it as each individual unit being 100W. If what I am looking at is suppose to be some teaser for a top market light before it comes out, why would the company make it sound like they aren’t overly powerful, what kind of tease is that? This teaser also shows 180 discrete diodes over the 6’ and 100W of power, so 0.5W per. So are you saying current developed this powerful light with 1.5W and 3W LEDs, called it model 4117 and sent you a beta version, but then scraped all their efforts and went with a lesser light? This just doesn’t make sense at all.

Again you specifically said you have a 200W power supply for your lights and you have 180 diodes with a mix of 1.5W and 3W LEDs. A 200W power supply can't drive that system, so can you not turn them up to 100%? This whole thing just makes no sense.

I personally have a 20gal AIO, I will be home from travel on Saturday and can send you pictures if you want. I’m sure if you search through my threads you will find some, I don’t update very often though. I ran a nanobox duo for the first year and a half and then got the itch for high end acros and it just wasn’t cutting it. I made the switch to a XR30 G4 Pro with diffuser and I have been able to hit the par I need.

I have nothing against lower powered lights, and I loved my NanoBox. You are Just making claims and directing people to currents lights off of your seemingly one off system that they don’t offer anymore. And you frequently say the light you are recommending you can’t get. So people are going to get their system and expect it to run their SPS tank and end up spending double the money because they will need to buy something more powerful after already buying the current lights.

 

[christian321uy]

happy with my hydra 26 use it on my 20 and 50g set up my corals are happy with it

 

[Sarah24!]

The 4114 lights have the same power has your godly praises radions. They won’t need a more powerful light, and won’t have to buy another light. If they were or are still able to be purchased they will grow any sps you throw at them. I have not mislead anyone, I did say I had a better spectrum because I beta tested them. Even with both spec sheets the radions and currents have an equal spectrum.
Urgh good grief each power supply or in our case cree leds in a constant voltage driver and a low voltage driver. Any cree led must have this or they simply consume to much energy and burn up. Generally speaking looking at both power supplies and I have not checked for radions current ones, but they are 24vdc power supplies. Most people figure the volts usage over the wattage. For example radions use 23 leds per cluster which is 46. If each one is 3 watts which would be 138 watts which you must factor 20% roughly extra to find the power supply, which is roughly 30 watts, so that’s 170 roughly, the fans roughly 16 watts, (that’s if every led ks a 3 watt led, some say 5 watt. Even then that’s 186 watts off a 190, so they are giving 4 watts headroom? If they are 5 watt led that’s 230 watts. Based on just the math even radions own power supply can’t handle 3 watt leds.

 

[sawdonkey]

I have two orphek bars and love them. I had them make a custom spectrum for me. It’s basically all blue but with four white diodes. This is still a really blue color, but but not totally blue.

If I’m in the market again some day for lights, I’d consider lighting my whole tank with these bars. I’d do about six or eight of them and would do a couple of daylights and a couple blues, and a couple blues with whites mixed in. Then I’d buy them on my apex and have them timed to go on and off to mimic sunrise sunset. Compared to the orphek Atlantic’s (I have two), that would be a cheaper way to light a tank and there are less parts to fail.

 

[Zach W]

The 4114 lights have the same power has your godly praises radions. They won’t need a more powerful light, and won’t have to buy another light. If they were or are still able to be purchased they will grow any sps you throw at them. I have not mislead anyone, I did say I had a better spectrum because I beta tested them. Even with both spec sheets the radions and currents have an equal spectrum.
Urgh good grief each power supply or in our case cree leds in a constant voltage driver and a low voltage driver. Any cree led must have this or they simply consume to much energy and burn up. Generally speaking looking at both power supplies and I have not checked for radions current ones, but they are 24vdc power supplies. Most people figure the volts usage over the wattage. For example radions use 23 leds per cluster which is 46. If each one is 3 watts which would be 138 watts which you must factor 20% roughly extra to find the power supply, which is roughly 30 watts, so that’s 170 roughly, the fans roughly 16 watts, (that’s if every led ks a 3 watt led, some say 5 watt. Even then that’s 186 watts off a 190, so they are giving 4 watts headroom? If they are 5 watt led that’s 230 watts. Based on just the math even radions own power supply can’t handle 3 watt leds.

Whatever you say, I see that you must be right in ever thread you post in, so I will concede. 100W spread over 6’ with 0.5W LEDs is not a good recommendation for an SPS dominant tank. And once again the Radion fan is 12V 0.35A, which means max power draw is 4.2W like I’ve laid out before.

 

[bblumberg]

Happy Holidays to all!

There seems to be a misconception in the ongoing discussion between Zach W and Sarah24! about what watts mean. Watts are a measure of power used, not of light output produced. A given fixture can use inefficient diodes and burn many more watts while producing less light (lumens) or photosynthetically usable radiation (PUR) per watt than a fixture that uses efficient diodes (e.g., Philips luxeons). Which fixture uses more watts is irrelevant to the light output.

I, for one would like to see the discussion focus on which fixtures produce the most PUR at the places you want it to be (i.e., where the corals are). Watts are entirely irrelevant to this discussion of LEDs.

 

[Zach W]

Happy Holidays to all!

There seems to be a misconception in the ongoing discussion between Zach W and Sarah24! about what watts mean. Watts are a measure of power used, not of light output produced. A given fixture can use inefficient diodes and burn many more watts while producing less light (lumens) or photosynthetically usable radiation (PUR) per watt than a fixture that uses efficient diodes (e.g., Philips luxeons). Which fixture uses more watts is irrelevant to the light output.

I, for one would like to see the discussion focus on which fixtures produce the most PUR at the places you want it to be (i.e., where the corals are). Watts are entirely irrelevant to this discussion of LEDs.

These have been done, look at some of the threads in the aquarium lighting by Dana Riddle. Radions don’t use low tier inefficient diodes, they use high end 3 and 5W Cree fixtures. These can produce 300+ par at the base of a 36” tank, there are countless par read outs from people using radions. Saying watts (power) is not a relevant indication of light intensity is disingenuous frankly. I deal with UV cured systems daily and I can assure you that increased wattage does indeed increase light intensity and penetration.

 

[Zach W]

Par values listed for all Current USA systems, from Current USA. This includes 4114 and 4117 as have been discussed. It is well know that Radions push out more par than this

 

[bblumberg]

These have been done, look at some of the threads in the aquarium lighting by Dana Riddle. Radions don’t use low tier inefficient diodes, they use high end 3 and 5W Cree fixtures. These can produce 300+ par at the base of a 36” tank, there are countless par read outs from people using radions. Saying watts (power) is not a relevant indication of light intensity is disingenuous frankly. I deal with UV cured systems daily and I can assure you that increased wattage does indeed increase light intensity and penetration.

Sorry, it is you who are wrong here. Sure, turning up your radions or UV curing system to use more watts will produce more light intensity. That is not in dispute. However, saying that your system produces more light than an entirely different one because it uses more watts is unsupportable (and I am being polite).

We are all glad that you like your Radions...

 

[Sarah24!]

The actual spec sheet for the 4114 version (you listed the ic pro version).

 

[pcon]

Metal halides, all else being equal they are my favorite. Because replacement bulb costs and heat, are issues in real life, and ramping for sunrise and sunset is important to me, I had to compromise my halide Puritanism. I am a kessil fanboy now. Closest thing to halides that I have seen. The new Red Sea lights are a close third but again they are missing some je ne sais quoi, of the halides, even more than the kessils. That being said it’s hard to justify the cost difference were I to buy new leds today.

I vehemently dislike the disco ball effect from the radions, and AI lights. The color blending is subpar, adding a diffuser after the fact seems silly, if the light needs a diffuser than it should be built to give a diffuse spread out light source, not in small pucks. of course this is all aesthetic opinion, lots of really nice tanks are run on radions and AI lights.

I would be really interested in trying some of the larger orphec point sources if I have a large enough tank and the cash to pony up, but I can’t say I have an opinion on them for better or worse.

For wider tanks I do like T5 LED hybrid setups I haven’t found a LED which faithfully replaces the type of diffused light from a T5 bulb. Though I think some of the ones mentioned by others, reef brights and orphec strips, are getting close.

Not going to beat around the bush: In my opinion and experience the current lights are awful for a reef. They have a horrible disco ball effect and seem to slowly kill corals. (This is not a slight on anyone specifically, just a statement of my experience looking at lots of tanks and build threads, and with the current lights on my own and customer tanks. If you have an enviable tank that has been running these long term I would love to be proven wrong, and it’s easy to do, just post your build thread or full tank shots showing coral growth and progress. I’m far from an authority on lights, nice current lit tanks may be out there, just never seen one truly successful long term with them. If they actually worked well they are at a good price point) Fine lights for a fish only or a freshwater tank it seems. The current pro I got is the equipment purchase I most regret. I use it only as a moon light now. was inadequate for a tiny coral tank, or even a fuge light in my opinion. While working at a fish store, I hated when my boss would load promises on them and sell them to beginners. Then a few months later customers would come back complaining about how they were struggling with corals. If you are running them and happy with your results then that’s all that matters. I would love to see successful long term coral growth with anyone’s lights. And want to thank those that have already shared theirs with other lighting systems. The progression of my tank on kessils can be seen in this post of my build thread.

lighting is largely personal preference; there are many paths to successful lighting. I strongly reccomend going to some local fish stores or friends and looking at tanks with different types of lights. Even on the forums look at build threads of tanks you want to emulate and look at their lighting. Ask people why they chose the lights they had, and if they dislike things about them. Go with the ones you like the look of most, that are known to have consistent good results for others. If you like the look, and they work for others, it can be worth figuring out how to make it work for you. lights can have a huge impact on tank aesthetics, and coral growth.