First timer here

danarosetti

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Hello all,

I have read a fair share of saltwater tank information. I'm sure it's not nearly enough as I have some very basic questions and seeking some newby advice.

So here's my story:
I've always had fresh water tanks throughout my life, and like everyone else have always wanted a salt water tank. The opportunity came up to me that a friend of a friend was selling their setup and was just trying to get rid of it. I heed and hawed and talked it over with the wife. She said that she would help with the upkeep and convinced me that I should get it. So here's what we got:
30 gallon tall tank.
Over the side carbon filter.
Over the side skimmer.
Florescent light.
LED light.
Heater.
6 chunks of live rock.
Crushed coral for a substrate.
He gave us all of his gear including some random test kits, refractometer, food, etc.
The livestock he had in the tank were:
Yellow tang.
Valentini puffer.
Two clown fish.
Pomacentrus coelestis (damselfish).
Some type of micro carpet anemone.

I took it not knowing nearly enough about keeping a saltwater tank and am finding out the hard way. He basically told me that with that setup all I would have to do is keep the tank topped off and do a 5 gallon water change every two weeks or so; Keeping the salinity around 1.021-1.026. I did that for a while and everything was decent. Nothing really was a problem. I of course got anxious to add things to the tank. I wanted to get a bubble tip anemone for the clown fish and fell victim to buying a look a like at Petco (Pink-Tipped Anemone). I didn't do any kind of dip or quarantine, I just slowly acclimated the anemone and put it in. This one is quite active and finds it's way around the tank regularly. It has even attacked the carpet from time to time. I did a bit of research and learned that it needs more flow, so I bought a circulation pump to get water movement. It's more or less found a home.

Onward. I bought a emerald crab and a peppermint shrimp. Both eventually disappeared.

The tank broke out in cynobacteria. Which led me to purchase a clean up crew from reefcleaners.org. They definitely helped keep the live rock cleaner. The skimmer would fill up a heck of a lot quicker. Eventually, the fairly large clean up crew become empty shells.

One clown fish died off, then the puffer, now the tang.

I'm not sure where to go from here. I would like to basically learn the proper ways to test and maintain the tank, stabilize it and then transfer it into a 45 gallon bow front tank that I currently have convict cichlids in.

What should I get for testing and how often should I test? Let's start there.
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Top of tank.jpg
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Well, I hate the be the tang and puffer police.... but that was not a good idea since they need lots of swimming room and a 30 gal just doesn't cut it. 2nd, did you cycle you tank? that can be the reason everything is dying off.
 
Well, I hate the be the tang and puffer police.... but that was not a good idea since they need lots of swimming room and a 30 gal just doesn't cut it. 2nd, did you cycle you tank? that can be the reason everything is dying off.

Yeah, the more I read, the more I realize that the guy I bought it off of had no idea what he was doing.

I didn't cycle the tank, but he stated that it wouldn't need to since he had it established. As I was saying... He didn't know much. I've had it running now for just about a year now. I think it may have cycled by now?
 
Yeah, the more I read, the more I realize that the guy I bought it off of had no idea what he was doing.

I didn't cycle the tank, but he stated that it wouldn't need to since he had it established. As I was saying... He didn't know much. I've had it running now for just about a year now. I think it may have cycled by now?
Have you ever test the water? If so could you list your parameters?
 
Welcome to R2R! Lots of very experienced people here to help you succeed. Keep asking great questions. Cheers!
 
That's what I'm asking, more or less. What test kit(s) do I need to get and what parameters are recommended?
API saltwater master kit is a great for a basic setup. You want to test for Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, Phosphate, Calcium and Alkalinity. Do you have a refractometer or a hydrometer to test your salinity?
 
API saltwater master kit is a great for a basic setup. You want to test for Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, Phosphate, Calcium and Alkalinity. Do you have a refractometer or a hydrometer to test your salinity?
I use a refractometer. I'll order a master kit today and get some parameters as soon as it comes in.
 
So here are my test results.

Not entirely sure what they mean or how to effect them.

Calcium - 520+ ppm
Phosphate - 5.0 ppm
Nitrate - 160 ppm
PH - 8.4
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm
Salinity was 1.024 and the tank is 78° F.

Fed flake food at 11:00am.

Any suggestions?
 
First off, Welcome to R2R! This is definitely the place you need to be at for a newbie. These numbers don't appear to be correct. Can you take a water sample to a LFS and have them test it for you?
Here is the general area your numbers should be at:
Ca - 430
Po4(phosphate) - < .02
No3(nitrate) - @ 4~5 ppm. You listed it twice with two different readings. Maybe one of them is your Nitrites (No2)? It should be 0.
What is your Alk at?
See if your LFS can test these for you so we can help you get where you need to be. Don't add anymore livestock to your tank until we can help you get setup for it.


welcom.jpg
 
Welcome to R2R!

As Salty1962 stated, getting your water tested properly will get you in the right direction. Also, you should own a RO/DI water filtration unit. Bulk Reef Supply makes great ro/di. Carbon in a HOB(hang-on-back) filter can trap a lot of detritus and should be rinsed with ro/di at least once a week. The carbon itself should be replaced every month. Or like me, don't use it. :) The skimmer you have is a decent skimmer, and should provide the filtration and water clarity you need. Other than that, might think about mixing your water at a set number and don't let salinity rise or fall. Keeping your salinity between 1.024-1.026 is the ideal range for a reef. Any lower and you start having issues. I would shoot for 1.025-1.026.
 
Unfortunately, I don't really have a LFS. I have a Petco. I've had them test my water before and they are more confused than I am. I bought both test kits https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D6Z7QW/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EUE808/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't want to have to travel 1.5 hours to get to a competent fish store.

The second Nitrate I put on there is actually nitrite. So at least that's where it's supposed to be.

The PO4 is way high. NO3 is way high. Calcium is high. I tested the KH and that was way off the charts. 214.8+ ppm.
The kits that I bought didn't come with Alkalinity tests I guess.

I'll see if the Petco can at least run a test for me and maybe I can take a snap shot of the test strip that they use so someone here can look at it.

What do I have to do to get these levels where they need to be?
 
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Well, unless you kind find someone to help you properly use the API test kits, I would suggest looking into Salifert test kits. Since you dont have an LFS near by, the internet is your resource. Look at bulk reef supply, marine depot, saltwateraquarium.com, ebay, amazon, reef2 reef :)
 
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Well, unless you kind find someone to help you properly use the API test kits, I would suggest looking into Salifert test kits. Since you dont have an LFS near by, the internet it resource. Look at bulk reef supply, marine depot, saltwateraquarium.com, ebay, amazon, reef2 reef :)
I thought that the APi test kits would work out?
 
I thought that the APi test kits would work out?
I know someone recommended the API test kit and it is usually fine if you are testing for ammonia or nitrite. Keep in mind, API kits are the cheapest for hobby grade water testing. They give a good round about number with often times a large deviation between the actual number and the tested number. The problem with this is when you have a tank and things aren't working out, you need accurate numbers. The numbers you have tested are really really high. In fact, I've never seen a tank as clean as yours and test phosphates so high. Usually phosphates in our tank test between 0.01 and 0.50(very high). What you tested was 5.0. That number cannot be right. Also, your nitrates should be between 2 and 20(at the most). You tested 160? Again your tank is too clean for these numbers.

Since you mix your salt at 1.024(lower range for salinity), your calcium is well above the recommended range of 350-450. For your salinity your number should be around 380-420.

I recommend the next best value for test kits. Salifert makes good hobby grade testing that most users on reef2reef use. The kits that will be most helpful are listed below.

Salifert Calcium
Salifert Alkalinity
Salifert Magnesium
Salifert Nitrate

Salifert Phosphate test works. However, it is a real pain to test with. I recommend watching a youtube video on how to do the salifert test before purchasing.
If you can spare an extra $40-$50, the most accurate phosphate test is a colormeter called Hanna Phosphorus ULR checker. This checker tests in the ppb(points per billion) and comes with a conversion chart as these numbers are different from the common ppm(points per million) numbers.

I've given you advise on test kits and what you should do with the tank. That said, these kits can last awhile and don't need to be used all the time. So if money is an issue, keeping the tank simple and not packed with coral, you won't have to test often and the tank wont have big reductions in calcium, alkalinity, or high nutrient number problems.

I recommend these test kits because IF your API numbers are true, you will need to do a lot of work at getting numbers down. With reducing nutrients and performing extra water changes it could cost just as much as the new test kits. In this case, its always better to be safe than sorry.
 
Thank you for the information.

I did a major over haul. I put my existing tank into a 45 gallon bow front tank yesterday.

Here are my test results from tonight. 24 hours after tank change:

Calcium - 420 ppm
Phosphate - ~3.0 ppm
Nitrate - 40 ppm
PH - 8.4
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm

Fed flake food at 11:00am

Some results look better.

What to do from here?
404eba37a5c1fd10c83e90b432b0d937.jpg
 
Thank you for the information.

I did a major over haul. I put my existing tank into a 45 gallon bow front tank yesterday.

Here are my test results from tonight. 24 hours after tank change:

Calcium - 420 ppm
Phosphate - ~3.0 ppm
Nitrate - 40 ppm
PH - 8.4
Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm

Fed flake food at 11:00am

Some results look better.

What to do from here?
404eba37a5c1fd10c83e90b432b0d937.jpg
Remove the hang on back filter, add another power head and invest in RODI and better test kits :)
 
Remove the hang on back filter, add another power head and invest in RODI and better test kits :)
Is the hob filter doing anything for me? I'm honestly looking into rodi systems currently. I'm liking to get one that I can also use for drinking water so I can justify it to my wife.

Any suggested power heads? I picked up the one I have on a whim with no research.

I was also curious about getting more live rock since I have more water. Can I buy dry rock and add it to my current setup?

My next step once I have had stable parameters for a while is getting an established clean up crew to maintain the tank.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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