Fish dieing

cbrack83

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So I bought a blenny about 2-3 weeks ago and hes been in qt tank... Hes been fine until tonight when I found him near the surface then when he saw me he went to a lower corner where he was in the picture... I did see him again by the surface but only for a second...

I check my numbers twice to make sure and I got 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate, ph 8.2 and salinity 1.023...

Thoughts what it might be?

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I also forgot to mention when I bought him I also bought 2 clowns at the same time and the both died within 2 days of buying them and I had similar numbers then... Wondering what it could be...
 
Are you treating with anything in the QT? Any heavy breathing, spots, dusty appearance, white or red marks/patches?
 
Heavy breathing is the only thing I notice... Sorry I meant to mention that in my original post.
 
The only meds is some medicated food to take are of any worm issues they may have...
 
Looks real skinny. Always makes me question how much of what they're eating they're actually getting.

The tank doesn't look likely to be O2-deprived.

Internal parasites cover up the gills and make it hard to breath. That and/or internal bacterial infection would be my first two guesses. The clowns would seem to concur with this...or at least they don't conflict.

I think @melypr1985 will have a formula to try to ruin the day for the parasites. :)

But also, Blennies act wierd – it's part of their job description. How and what is he eating?

That's a sweet looking QT – good job! I think I even see some bits of fluff growing on the rocks! :)
 
I fees the hexshield pellets... Hes always eaten well... I know because I enjoy watching him eat...

When you save cover the gills do you mean. Internally because I do t see anything around the Gill externally...
 
I just hope I dont lose him before I can get him fixed...
 
Yes, he means that some parasites will attack inside the gills (point of least resistance) causing fluid to build up in that area making it difficult to breathe. I'd recommend a freshwater dip to see if anything like flukes come out. If they don't then at least you will have helped flush some of that fluid out and help him breathe a little easier. If neither thing happens then we have other areas to explore. He does look skinny. Are you feeding him any Nori? His diet is primarily vegi in nature, so he needs to be able to graze as well as eat some meaty foods. OH! And have you seen him poop? You'll want to look for long, white, stringy poop.

Here's how to do the dip:

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

And what to look for as far as flukes:
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How long can he survive like this?

we wont know until we do some tests and try to diagnose the problem. Try the freshwater dip like I outlined above.
 
I put some in we will see if he eats... I am trying to get some water up to temp but it probably won't be ready until morning as its 11:45 EST right now...
 
What you see from outside the fish is the gill plate. The gills are their lungs, are bright pink/red and are on the inside.

I usually use a container than can hold a gallon or two comfortably – dechlorinate it and then float the container in a sump on on the display surface – whatever works. Doesn't usually take more than an hour, unless it's winter time and the cold tap water comes out in the form of ice crystals. :D

If it turns out to be flatworms (nee flukes – common name, but which is technically a very different animal) the pic of the Kole tank shows them best....they're circular/disc shaped...maybe slightly oval. Not really very "wormy" looking. ;)

Damage to the gills can also cause the gasping, in addition to being physically covered by parasites like flatworms....this kind of damage can come from activity of the flatworms (less likely IME) or other parasite, or an infection, which might also have been related to parasite damage. Just like ourselves, we hope it's not an infection.

Flatworms, by comparison to pretty much all the other possibilities, are usually just an annoyance if the fish is at all healthy.

His skinniness combined with the other symptoms has me worried a little bit on this front. Eating is definitely a great sign, but it doesn't quite get him out of the woods. My fingers are crossed! :)

I agree about making some algae available 24 x 7, BTW.......keep it very fresh and don't let it rot in the tank if it's not getting eaten....change it out at least once a day.

On the flip side, if he eats it right away, I'd feed him more or more often and/or keep on offering more dried algae through the day. I've had some fish chow down a whole sheet of noori per day plus regular feedings....

Good luck!
 
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

Dechlorinating the dip is the most important step, BTW.

I forgot once....once. Very sad....horrible way to go.

Chews up their hemoglobin and suffocates them at the blood level. I caught it in time and thankfully it was larger fish, which seem to "take" a proper freshwater dip much more in stride than small fish.

If the fish is not struggling and you still have flatworms coming off, I wouldn't hesitate to go up to 10-15 minutes on a freshwater dip.

That doesn't mean you can lolligag around! :) I usually stay close by with a net or feeding tube that I can use to help dislodge worms more quickly - sometime they remain stuck by one edge – especially if around the eyes – and you can lightly brush them off vs waiting an extra 5 minutes.

As mentioned, watch small or weakened fish more closely – you want the flatworms off of them even more AND you want to minimize further handling of them, but they will also have the least tolerance for anything including a freshwater dip..

"Playing dead" as @melypr1985 mentioned is the most likely thing to see than might throw off your confidence....but I've never, not once, seen that turn into any actual problem. It's seems just to be a "surprise" reaction by the fish as far as I could discern.
 
So they were not there last night but he now has some white spots in him...
 
What causes these to occur if my water levels are good?

Parasites are introduced to the aquarium from the fish that are added. Qt is meant to stop that from happening by treating for these parasites before introduction. Infections are often caused from injuries or breaks in the skin that allow bacteria to get in. The insertion point from a single ick or velvet trophont can get infected and open the door to infection spreading through the body.

Most parasites have a certain life cycle where the trophont feeds on the fish then drops off after a couple days, it then attaches to a hard surface and creates a cyst that it reproduces in. The cyst breaks open releasing all the new tomites that search around for a new fishy host and continues the life cycle. That's how it spreads and why you only see the white spots on the fish periodically.
 

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