Fish dying 30 gallon tank

SaltyKrew

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New tank set up on month 2 have lost 3 clowns already and just lost my lawn more blenny this morning and my LFS just tells me it happens and that all my perrimaters are good levels and my tank has fully cycled. Have been following all the recommendations. Do a 10% water change a week have a 30 gallon setup.

took a look at my one clown who has been with me since the beginning and his mouth looks like it’s got white sores on it and looks like it’s like it’s eating his flesh. Open mouth.
 
Post pics please. Ask Jay hemdal.
7A4D940B-8E02-495D-B216-ADC76E311BAB.jpeg
 
We’ll see what Jay has to say. I wonder about brook though from the pictures and while it’s not exclusive to clownfish, it seems it’s hit your clowns the hardest.

Also to the fish store…fish being diseased and dying is not just “what happens.” You will lose fish in this hobby for sure, but most of the time there’s a reason. A specific pathogen that can be treated. Watching out or treating prophylactically for these pathogens is why many quarantine fish before adding fish to the community. Sometimes it’ll be discovered too late though.
 
Thank you, it’s just such a bummer. I probably should set up a quarantine tank now then. I really need to get advice from one person as I feel everyone has different opinions on quarantine tanks.
 
Whether to QT or not is a very personal decision. Among other things, not everyone has space to set up another tank and a willing significant other. It’s also a big commitment if you go all the way. When you factor in ramping up the copper over a week, 30 days of copper, then 2 weeks of treating with prazi/observation you’re looking at 7 weeks minimum before you can fully enjoy the new fish in your main tank. Then there’s the extra water you have to make, extra water changes, etc.

I look at it this way though. No matter what you do you’re going to need a second tank eventually. Especially if you don’t QT and treat up front, then you’ll need a hospital tank to treat on the back end because you’ll see all the common diseases multiple times. So for my part, as long as I already have the equipment, might as well just QT and treat up front. Plus fish in this hobby are expensive! It doesn’t have to be super elaborate or expensive and you can take it down between batches. IMO though it’s well worth the effort.
 
I’ll have to agree with the post that this is not just one of those things that happen. Fish do die as everyone experiences. But something else is going on here. I got so much bad advise from the fish store that got me started in this hobby and from what I’ve heard on this forum you just can’t trust them. They’re just wanting to make a buck and really often don’t know what they’re talking about. It’s sad. Good luck though. Wish I could help diagnose the clown. Jay should be able to help. He’s given me invaluable advice many times.
 
Here are my levels
PH - 8.1- 8.5
Ammonia- .3
Nitrite- .1
Nitrate- under 5
Salinity- 1.026
Hi, Welcome to Reef2Reef!

There may be a few things going on here. Lawnmower blennies are notoriously difficult to keep in new aquariums, they really do best in tanks with a good growth of algae.

Your ammonia should be zero, or at least below 0.25 and you report 0.30. That could be the test kit, which one are you using? But that goes both ways - if the test kit is off, it could be even higher.

The clown in the picture seems to have been fighting. The damage to its face and tail indicates that. Clowns can be very sly - while you are watching them, they stop what they are doing and watch you. Then, when you leave the room, they start fighting again. This won't be a constant thing - it may only be a few "bites" each day, you may never see it happen.

What fish do you have in the tank now?

Jay
 
Hi, Welcome to Reef2Reef!

There may be a few things going on here. Lawnmower blennies are notoriously difficult to keep in new aquariums, they really do best in tanks with a good growth of algae.

Your ammonia should be zero, or at least below 0.25 and you report 0.30. That could be the test kit, which one are you using? But that goes both ways - if the test kit is off, it could be even higher.

The clown in the picture seems to have been fighting. The damage to its face and tail indicates that. Clowns can be very sly - while you are watching them, they stop what they are doing and watch you. Then, when you leave the room, they start fighting again. This won't be a constant thing - it may only be a few "bites" each day, you may never see it happen.

What fish do you have in the tank now?

Jay
Hi Jay,
Thank you for taking the time to respond, I have two different kits, I have the API and the Fluval of the sea, I tested yesterday with fluval. The ammonia level has been reading 0 with API for the past 3 weeks, used the fluval because the api didn't have the nitrite test in the bundle.

I have 2 cardinals, 5 hermits, 2 snails and a cleaner shrimp. blennies died yesterday morning and my other clown died last week and had no signs of disease from what I saw, but I am new to this and learning everyday. not having much luck though. Right when I think I'm doing better something like this happens and get frustrated. that's why I finally decided to join this forum.
 
Hi Jay,
Thank you for taking the time to respond, I have two different kits, I have the API and the Fluval of the sea, I tested yesterday with fluval. The ammonia level has been reading 0 with API for the past 3 weeks, used the fluval because the api didn't have the nitrite test in the bundle.

I have 2 cardinals, 5 hermits, 2 snails and a cleaner shrimp. blennies died yesterday morning and my other clown died last week and had no signs of disease from what I saw, but I am new to this and learning everyday. not having much luck though. Right when I think I'm doing better something like this happens and get frustrated. that's why I finally decided to join this forum.
Personally, I would let the tank operate as it is for a month. That will give time for things to settle down, or, for the issue to show symptoms on the cardinal fish. I know you are in a hurry to get the tank up and running ASAP, but I think since we don’t know why the clowns died, a pause would be beneficial.
Going forward - it is always helpful to quarantine new fish, or at least buy fish that were quarantined by somebody else. Are you confident that your store has good quality fish?
Jay
 
Personally, I would let the tank operate as it is for a month. That will give time for things to settle down, or, for the issue to show symptoms on the cardinal fish. I know you are in a hurry to get the tank up and running ASAP, but I think since we don’t know why the clowns died, a pause would be beneficial.
Going forward - it is always helpful to quarantine new fish, or at least buy fish that were quarantined by somebody else. Are you confident that your store has good quality fish?
Jay
Thank you Jay, I am going to get a quarantine tank today and start the process on setting that up. Do you have any good links I can use to set up a QT tank successfully as I do not know if my LFS has quality fish. As noted before when I went to them about my fish dying they told me "fish die something you just have to accept" I really didn't like that answer as to why I have been researching and trying to learn more everyday.
 
Thank you Jay, I am going to get a quarantine tank today and start the process on setting that up. Do you have any good links I can use to set up a QT tank successfully as I do not know if my LFS has quality fish. As noted before when I went to them about my fish dying they told me "fish die something you just have to accept" I really didn't like that answer as to why I have been researching and trying to learn more everyday.
Here is a link to my current quarantine protocol - the first page gives some information about setting up a quarantine tank:

Regarding what your dealer told you - kind of true - yes, fish will die. The old saying is, "our aquarium fish have a 100% mortality rate". The key question of course is, "over what time frame?" If it's the fish's natural life span, that's great. If it's two days after you bought the fish, not so good. We all just need to do what we can to prevent early and avoidable death on our animals.

Jay
 
Here is a link to my current quarantine protocol - the first page gives some information about setting up a quarantine tank:

Regarding what your dealer told you - kind of true - yes, fish will die. The old saying is, "our aquarium fish have a 100% mortality rate". The key question of course is, "over what time frame?" If it's the fish's natural life span, that's great. If it's two days after you bought the fish, not so good. We all just need to do what we can to prevent early and avoidable death on our animals.

Jay
Well my clown just died need to get it away from the clean up crew now, but I won’t add anything moving forward and see how the cardinals do to know what is really going on.

thanks for your help with everything going to start setting up the qt tank now while I wait.
 
Take a look at this site too, it has some pictures of what different QT setups might look like.

I went with a “kit” 20 gallon from a LFS for like $30-40, the nice thing being it comes with a lid, light, heater, filter, and thermometer. I will say though the HOB flow was pretty weak, and the thermometer was pretty inaccurate. But I still like the lid with built in light; also reduces evaporation vs open top with egg crate. I ended up going with a Tidal 75 for each of my 20g QT’s. Great flow, huge media basket, surface skimmer. Also bought a big air stone and pump for use with meds especially prazipro. If you buy PVC pieces be aware some types are hallow core and float!
 
The old saying is, "our aquarium fish have a 100% mortality rate". The key question of course is, "over what time frame?"
I like when you bring this up! Reminds me of the time a professor started his lecture saying all fish have a 100% mortality rate. The audience was livid until the professor explained that it included death from natural causes.

^ You told me this story. I hope I paraphrased it correctly! :)
 
Here is a link to my current quarantine protocol - the first page gives some information about setting up a quarantine tank:

Regarding what your dealer told you - kind of true - yes, fish will die. The old saying is, "our aquarium fish have a 100% mortality rate". The key question of course is, "over what time frame?" If it's the fish's natural life span, that's great. If it's two days after you bought the fish, not so good. We all just need to do what we can to prevent early and avoidable death on our animals.

Jay
Hi Jay! I had a quick question on the quarantine tank, am i still doing weekly water changes while running the copper treatment when new fish are in quarantine?
 
Hi Jay! I had a quick question on the quarantine tank, am i still doing weekly water changes while running the copper treatment when new fish are in quarantine?
Well, I change water in quarantine systems based on need identified through water testing. High ammonia is a serious issue and can require daily water changes. If the pH is fine, with no ammonia, I typically don’t change any during copper, change before and at the end. If needed during a copper treatment, you’ll need to redose the replacement water with copper.
Jay
 

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