Fish quarantine system detail

Wow.. amazing threads... any idea about praziquantel? We dont get prazipro here.

You should be able to get that in powder form like they sell here: http://fishremedies.com/praziquantel.aspx

Dosage is 75 mg per 10 gallons (38 L). You can also add powder Metronidazole to this at a dosage of 250 mg per 10 gallons (38 L). That combination affords a broader dewormer than just using prazi by itself.
 
Do i feed metro or add in tank?
 
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Either way. It can be soaked in fish food, so long as you use a binder to prevent the medication from leaching out. This makes it reef safe. :)
What does seachem focus contain? Thts a binder right?
 
So what do u suggest finally for qt new fish?

day 3) add paraguard

Day4) paraguard

Day5) carbon for 48hrs

Day 7) cp with metro, prazi all mix for 1 month.

Day 38) do 50% wc and add carbon

Day 39 to 50) observe

Day 51) acriflavine

Day 52 to 54) observe n feed

Day 55) do 25% wc and add carbon for 48 to 72hrs

Day 56 to 60) observe n feed

Day 61) transfer to dt.

I cant keep 2 big qt tanks for tank transfer method, got no space at all...[emoji17]
 
Thats fine?

This is what I would do in your shoes to keep it simple:

Step 1) Ensure fish is eating. Once that has been confirmed, begin CP treatment for 30 days at a dosage of 40mg/gal.

Step 2) After 30 days of CP, run carbon & do a large water change to remove the medication from the water.

Step 3) Dose Praziquantel (7.5mg/gal) and Metronidazole (25mg/gal); repeat dosage in 48 hrs. Wait one week, do a 25% water change, and do two more rounds of prazi & metro as outlined (spaced out 48 hrs).

Step 4) Fish is now ready to go into your DT.

I personally wouldn't use acriflavine, antibiotics or perform FW dips unless you see there is a problem that warrants it. And that is something we can advise you about on a case-by-case basis.
 
This is what I would do in your shoes to keep it simple:

Step 1) Ensure fish is eating. Once that has been confirmed, begin CP treatment for 30 days at a dosage of 40mg/gal.

Step 2) After 30 days of CP, run carbon & do a large water change to remove the medication from the water.

Step 3) Dose Praziquantel (7.5mg/gal) and Metronidazole (25mg/gal); repeat dosage in 48 hrs. Wait one week, do a 25% water change, and do two more rounds of prazi & metro as outlined (spaced out 48 hrs).

Step 4) Fish is now ready to go into your DT.

I personally wouldn't use acriflavine, antibiotics or perform FW dips unless you see there is a problem that warrants it. And that is something we can advise you about on a case-by-case basis.
Thanks bro.. thats the exact answer i was looking for...[emoji4]
 
What would be better for my qt? An eheim hob with sponge or a sponge filter? Also will i need an airstone? I hate airstones coz of crazy salt creep..
 
What would be better for my qt? An eheim hob with sponge or a sponge filter? Also will i need an airstone? I hate airstones coz of crazy salt creep..

Eheim HOB with sponge; air driven sponge filters are not as efficient for breaking down ammonia and IMO are only suitable for small fish/light QT bio-loads.
 
Eheim HOB with sponge; air driven sponge filters are not as efficient for breaking down ammonia and IMO are only suitable for small fish/light QT bio-loads.
Thanks, coz i already have eheim hob the biggest 1.
 
Eheim HOB with sponge; air driven sponge filters are not as efficient for breaking down ammonia and IMO are only suitable for small fish/light QT bio-loads.

Humble,

Has anyone not had luck treating ich like this (assuming they quarantined correctly)?

I mentioned to my local LFS that I was going to copper treat in a QT, and keep my DT fallow for 3 months. They stated that ich in the DT never completely goes away. It lies dormant in the tank, but eventually comes back if the fish are stressed enough. They likened it to a cancer that goes into remission, but eventually comes back.

I purchased an AquaMedic trap. I've already trapped 4 fish and placed them in the QT, and will start dosing copper today. So I'm already invested in your advice; but out of respect to a differing opinion...I wanted to open it up to see if anyone felt like it didn't completely eradicate the ich problem.
 
Has anyone not had luck treating ich like this (assuming they quarantined correctly)?

Do you mean does copper sometimes fail to eradicate ich in the QT? Or does going fallow sometimes fail to starve the parasite out of the DT?
 
Going fallow beyond 76 days to starve out the parasite.

There have been some cases of fallow failures after only 72 days, which caused me to reconfigure it to 76. The 72 day rule only took theront excystment into consideration; it didn't take the protomont, tomont, tomite and theront life stages into account. These stages are all brief, but tack on another 4 days when you consider worst case scenario for each.

Theoretically, it is possible that a as-of-yet discovered strain of ich exists with a life cycle even greater than 76 days (that strain is already considered rare.) If you were to happen to encounter such a strain of ich, 76 days fallow would not be long enough.

It is also worth noting that the 76 day strain is considered "questionable" by some, as the study may have been influenced by cooler (68F) water temps. In other studies, 35 days was the longest period for theront excystment when the temp was kept above 73.4F. See link & chart below.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/marine-ich-and-temperature.232825/

 
My temp is currently 30c and not noticing any coral issue. Gona keep my tank fallow till 10th july, tht completes 90days.. i have 4 local peleamon shrimps, tht i feed every alternate days. Gona add a gbta this week. Lets see. Also im gona add a pair of cheap sebae clowns to check what happens, will qt them for a month n a half though before adding.
 
My temp is currently 30c and not noticing any coral issue. Gona keep my tank fallow till 10th july, tht completes 90days.. i have 4 local peleamon shrimps, tht i feed every alternate days. Gona add a gbta this week. Lets see. Also im gona add a pair of cheap sebae clowns to check what happens, will qt them for a month n a half though before adding.

30C=86F. That's pretty warm for corals.
 
30C=86F. That's pretty warm for corals.
Im from mumbai (bombay), India. During summers, our room temp reaches to 32c, outside temp i guess 40c+. Many reefers here dont keep chillers, and have successfully grown lps and softies at 30c+. Cant say about sps, as they are very exp and no1 really risks them without a chiller. However, chillers are too kept between 27c and 29c. Since electricity is very expensive here, 200-300$ monthly. I too had a chiller in my old tank, this time i dont. Will be getting one though for my new build.
 

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