fish farmer
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This how Vermonters hold up their old houses.
Floor failures
- Thread starter joethenathan
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This how Vermonters hold up their old houses.
ZsWithTheFishes
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Proper method:
Don't think about it:
Hmmm:
This is what's under the 220 in my house. It cost about $350-$400 plus the 2x6s and is probably severe overkill since it's on an outside wall; however, the tank shares the room with 2 75g & 2 55g and the big one runs parallel with the joists.
The setup under my fish room is about the same, except there are ~10 tanks.
Under $1000 for both, 1 day labor on each with no prior experience & a few YouTube videos. So basically less effort and money than anything else I have tried in fish keeping. I can't speak to its effectiveness, but the floors haven't fallen in yet... ;Nailbiting
Eric R.
Well-Known Member
I know that this is reviving a dead thread, and I don't know that @ZsWithTheFishes will see it, but that's not how you're supposed to do it! Or in case anyone else reads this thread and tries to copy that setup, here's a warning.
Those 2x6s have hardly any strength on their side like that, they will deflect easily even with a minimal load over time. Whenever you are using dimensional lumber to support something, it needs to be placed with the longer side vertical, as that is where it has the most strength to resist deflection. What you should do, is lower those jacks enough that you can turn the 2x6s on their side, and screw together with lag screws another 1 or 2 2x6s. If you were spanning a longer distance between the screw jacks, you would need to use either doubled or tripled 2x8s or 2x10s, depending on the length of the span and the amount of the load you are trying to support. And if you really want to do it right, check each board by sighting down the length of the board on the short side and check the crown (which way the board "curves"), and put all the boards with the crown up.
This is what's under the 220 in my house. It cost about $350-$400 plus the 2x6s and is probably severe overkill since it's on an outside wall; however, the tank shares the room with 2 75g & 2 55g and the big one runs parallel with the joists.
The setup under my fish room is about the same, except there are ~10 tanks.
Under $1000 for both, 1 day labor on each with no prior experience & a few YouTube videos. So basically less effort and money than anything else I have tried in fish keeping. I can't speak to its effectiveness, but the floors haven't fallen in yet... ;Nailbiting
Those 2x6s have hardly any strength on their side like that, they will deflect easily even with a minimal load over time. Whenever you are using dimensional lumber to support something, it needs to be placed with the longer side vertical, as that is where it has the most strength to resist deflection. What you should do, is lower those jacks enough that you can turn the 2x6s on their side, and screw together with lag screws another 1 or 2 2x6s. If you were spanning a longer distance between the screw jacks, you would need to use either doubled or tripled 2x8s or 2x10s, depending on the length of the span and the amount of the load you are trying to support. And if you really want to do it right, check each board by sighting down the length of the board on the short side and check the crown (which way the board "curves"), and put all the boards with the crown up.
Last edited:
PeterC99
Solarbenchmark.com
Wanted to thank everyone for their contributions to this thread. I have a 90 gallon sitting in my living room without any additional supports (live in almost 100 year old house with true 2” X 10” joists). Thinking about one day upgrading and this thread gave me a lot of good food for thought.
Thanks!
Thanks!
ca1ore
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That’s true, however, it appears to me that the 2x6 is just there to keep the jack post plates secured. Jack post are right under the actual joists so no structural role for the 2x6. FWIW, that’s exactly how I have mine installed.
Eric R.
Well-Known Member
Hmm, perhaps you're right. I can't really tell from the picture, in the first image it looked to me like the jack furthest to the left and the one in the middle back aren't directly under the joists, but they could be and it could just be the way the picture was taken. If so, then yes, no issue.
Rmckoy
7500 Club Member
She’s trying to sneak out ..
It would be wise if she didn’t return home
Ryan Doolittle
Active Member
A tank won't just fall through the floor. You will start noticing a deflection in the floor towards the tank or one side will start to give way.
Floors are a lot stronger than people think. I wouldn't worry until going large and/or in the middle of the house with an open concept basement.
Floors are a lot stronger than people think. I wouldn't worry until going large and/or in the middle of the house with an open concept basement.
Rmckoy
7500 Club Member
That being said .
would you put a 230 gal against a wall , across floor joist . On a main floor ?
Yes.
I put a 220 exactly like that and it was fine for 3 years until I moved.
we had more bounce in the living room with the kids running around than we did standing next to the tank. If it had been overweighting the floor, we’d have felt it when walking near it
also consider- ever had a birthday party or a college kids party? How many adults where hanging out in your living room at once? Now factor in dynamic loading while they are walking around.
Floors are stronger than people think
landlubber
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if they were thinking that far ahead it begs the question why a person wouldn't consider the weight tolerance of the floor to begin with? lol
mdb_talon
2500 Club Member
That deflection is actually the problem. A floor collapsing is a very minimal concern. Sagging joists and structural damage is the concern. The goal is to prevent that from happening in the first place rather than using that as the alert to tell you it was a bad idea.
Astro
Active Member
As someone who rents their home and lives on main floor with basement directly under, is there anything I should have in writing? If the floor DOES sink, how liable would I be? Damage deposit is only 1 month rent. I have renters insurance but need to check to what extent it covers. I only have 65g setup, so even if it’s weight isn’t too insane, good to know if I upgrade.
mdb_talon
2500 Club Member
I am not a structural engineer or a lawyer I only play one online, but if the floor sags or falls through based off a 65g aquarium I think you are safe from liability as long as you have read your lease and it does not exclude aquariums or similar (that is a reasonable size aquarium and any up-to-code floor should support it). I would say your much bigger liability risk is around leaks/tank failures causing water damage. Definitely check out your renters insurance, but I have always heard it specifically will not cover damage liability from such an occurrence.
Astro
Active Member
our lease was kind of sketchy lol but it has never included anything of the sort. I will check my insurance company just to inquire. Fortunately, my few floodings have only been with rodi in our washroom which is thankfully tiled along wall, and have caught them quick enough to prevent any damage. (as we speak, filling up 20g brute and first time w/o leak!!). Tank is also plumbed in a way where I think it's almost impossible to flood unless ATO sensors both fail but pump keeps pumping. Thank you for your help and assurance! If anyone asks you are both a structural engineer and a lawyer B-)
