Frogspawn-octospawn keeps on shinking day by day

Dip in Bayer, or something similar.
If you’re confident it’s not pest related then don’t. I didn’t see the little turds until I removed it & I saw a bunch of spots around the fleshy heads.
Just a thought!
I strongly don’t believe it’s an alk issue, unless there has been a swing...
 
Considering their experience and time in the industry, yes, I'm absolutely going to sell advice from them, as opposed to some stranger I haven't met. Sorry that you don't have someone like that. Everyone runs their reef differently, and successfully. I'm glad to know that you are perfect and know all on the topic. Thanks.
 
Considering their experience and time in the industry, yes, I'm absolutely going to sell advice from them, as opposed to some stranger I haven't met. Sorry that you don't have someone like that. Everyone runs their reef differently, and successfully. I'm glad to know that you are perfect and know all on the topic. Thanks.
Can we see your tank?
 
I'm sorry, but you probably shouldn't be suggesting this, whether or not it came from a LFS you enjoy.. While you can run a tank with an elevated alkalinity, this is not the norm for most reefers. Moreover, tanks should only be run at elevated alkalinity if the aquarist understands the challenges of higher alkalinity such as alk burn on tips with ULNS or the increased abiotic preciptation. I would never suggest all reefers run at that level- it's much easier to suggest a level closer to NSW for your average hobbyist.

EXACTLY! It can be done and comes with perks but you better understand how to run a tank w/ that high of ALK... 7.7 is perfect ALK
 
To the OP: It really doesn't look that bad. Did you change light or flow recently? If not, I would just leave it be and see what happens. It's very possibly still adjusting to its new surroundings and pulling it out for a dip or changing light/flow/parameters will only make it worse. You can always act tomorrow if it deteriorates, but over-reacting is sometimes the worst thing to do.
 
Dip in Bayer, or something similar.
If you’re confident it’s not pest related then don’t. I didn’t see the little turds until I removed it & I saw a bunch of spots around the fleshy heads.
Just a thought!
I strongly don’t believe it’s an alk issue, unless there has been a swing...
Yeah there has not been an alk swing ans as soon as my lights are on I am gonna inspect for pests, and side note, do you think it can be from to much light? Right now they my lights are at ab plus spectrum at 40% intensity
 
To the OP: It really doesn't look that bad. Did you change light or flow recently? If not, I would just leave it be and see what happens. It's very possibly still adjusting to its new surroundings and pulling it out for a dip or changing light/flow/parameters will only make it worse. You can always act tomorrow if it deteriorates, but over-reacting is sometimes the worst thing to do.
The only thing that is bein changed in this month is my lights, its a ecotech radion gen 4 pro xr 30 and it was running on 30 percent ab+, but it was low light for my acros so they started browning up, but the frogspawn was doing great. Then because of the issue fith the acros I started a aclimation prosses for the lights to go from 30%-45% intensity on the ab+ spectrum. The lights are currently on their second week of aclimation. Can that actually be the cause? Because I have seen people blasting thease guys with much higher lights to almost 300 par.
 
Can we see your tank?
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My LFS who has been in business for over 30 years. Mine runs about 13 which is fine, according to them. Also, many other reefers on here say that too.
Doesn't mean it's always correct. Majority run lower KH
 
My 105g mixed reef DT is run at a dKH of 8.9 and is steady—agree that the more important element is stability vs. a number. It is interesting that Red Sea publishes a dKH of 11.5 as the perfect “recipe” for mixed reef tanks.
 
TThe lights are currently on their second week of aclimation. Can that actually be the cause? Because I have seen people blasting thease guys with much higher lights to almost 300 par.

It absolutely could be the cause. They can handle light but have to acclimate to it. Even more reason to leave it alone and gove it time.
 
My 105g mixed reef DT is run at a dKH of 8.9 and is steady—agree that the more important element is stability vs. a number. It is interesting that Red Sea publishes a dKH of 11.5 as the perfect “recipe” for mixed reef tanks.
I completely agree. Stability is the most important! Fish and animals are capable of adapting when necessary.
 
It absolutely could be the cause. They can handle light but have to acclimate to it. Even more reason to leave it alone and gove it time.
So not touch it at all, and just not move it around?
 
So not touch it at all, and just not move it around?

Unless it gets much worse, like retracting completely into the skeleton and staying that way for several days or it starts to look slimy/oozy, that is what I would do. I have had lps corals (hammers, duncans) react to light changes in exactly the way yours is doing. It took probably a week for them to start to look better again.
 
Unless it gets much worse, like retracting completely into the skeleton and staying that way for several days or it starts to look slimy/oozy, that is what I would do. I have had lps corals (hammers, duncans) react to light changes in exactly the way yours is doing. It took probably a week for them to start to look better again.
Wow thanks alot for the info! Ill make sure to take a look at it because it got better today but butt soon as I cleaned the class it retracted alot. If it stays that way for a week Ill change the spot
 

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