Frogspawn - Suddenly Stopped Opening

RaymondL

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 3, 2022
Messages
861
Reaction score
335
Location
Miami
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Being this is my first Frogspawn, I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Well, I've had it for over 5 months now, and suddenly in the last 2 days, it just stopped opening. Nothing has been changed: flow, light, dosing, nothing new added as well. I checked all water parameters, and they are identical to what they were last week - spot on. There is nothing deficient in Ca, Mg or dkH - all stable.

Is this normal of such or other corals to suddenly close up for no apparent reason? This is my first experience with regards, so I'm not sure if this is something I need to worry about.

Thanks
 
Same thing happened to mine recently, had it for a few months the started to close up, I dipped it in coral revive and nothing came off of it, seems to very slowly be opening up again, maybe it’s just something they do?
 
Same thing happened to mine recently, had it for a few months the started to close up, I dipped it in coral revive and nothing came off of it, seems to very slowly be opening up again, maybe it’s just something they do?
I thought the same about dipping it, but don't see any reason to given that I don't believe there's any pests in the tank. When you dipped yours, did it started to open up right after, or did the dip do nothing and days later it started to slowly open up again?
 
Mine has been having trouble for so long, probably a year. I tried everything until I realized that there were vermetid snails on it that were irritating it.

I took it out and scraped the worms off. It’s only been a day or two so hopefully I see improvement.

Check for vermetid snails. Best way to see their web is to disturb the sand (don’t go deep, just touch the surface) until a white cloud forms. The worms will try to catch food from it and throw their webs. Then you can see if some are close to your coral.
 
Without any major changes, it is not typical for euphyllia to close for days at a time. Something is indeed off.
Some pics would be greatly helpful.
Will need some more information:
What kind of corals are neighboring this frogspawn?
Any clownfish that may be trying to host the frogspawn all of a sudden?
Previous poster mentioned vermetids, good idea to check for these. Mucous strings and worm tubes are two good indicators. Vermetids will slowly advance up the branch of euphyllia coral and the shells poke into the coral flesh causing receding.
 
Without any major changes, it is not typical for euphyllia to close for days at a time. Something is indeed off.
Some pics would be greatly helpful.
Will need some more information:
What kind of corals are neighboring this frogspawn?
Any clownfish that may be trying to host the frogspawn all of a sudden?
Previous poster mentioned vermetids, good idea to check for these. Mucous strings and worm tubes are two good indicators. Vermetids will slowly advance up the branch of euphyllia coral and the shells poke into the coral flesh causing receding.
Frogspawn is by itself - no close neighbors. Clowns don't bother with the frogspawn to the best to my knowledge.

Looking for Vermetids - don't see any at the moment on close inspection, but I will likely need to pull out the Frogspawn from the rock to examine more closely.
 

Attachments

  • 20230405_153802_resized.jpg
    20230405_153802_resized.jpg
    205.2 KB · Views: 56
Frogspawn is by itself - no close neighbors. Clowns don't bother with the frogspawn to the best to my knowledge.

Looking for Vermetids - don't see any at the moment on close inspection, but I will likely need to pull out the Frogspawn from the rock to examine more closely.
Sorry, is your picture what you meant by “closed”? This falls within normal range of appearance for a frogspawn, and would be considered retracted but not closed in my books. If this is how it’s looking, I would not be too concerned. Has there been any gradual rise to your water temp recently?

Ive included a picture of what I thought you meant when you said closed. (Not my picture)
27742D39-E389-4615-A0A9-80A0C63AD945.jpeg
 
This is my hammer frogs and torches recovering in a low flow frag tank after fragging. Notice how they are opening already even 30mins after fragging.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    232.3 KB · Views: 53
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    243.3 KB · Views: 55
Frogspawn is by itself - no close neighbors. Clowns don't bother with the frogspawn to the best to my knowledge.

Looking for Vermetids - don't see any at the moment on close inspection, but I will likely need to pull out the Frogspawn from the rock to examine more closely.
I see slight recession here and is caused by stress. Some stressors are:
Change in lighting (too bright)
Often change in flow often increasing
Elevated Phos and sometimes nitrate
Pests - black buys and nudibranchs
Drop in calcium... They need calcium of no less than 400
 
I thought the same about dipping it, but don't see any reason to given that I don't believe there's any pests in the tank. When you dipped yours, did it started to open up right after, or did the dip do nothing and days later it started to slowly open up again?
It started to open the next day, it’s still not as open as it used to be but it’s better
 
I see slight recession here and is caused by stress. Some stressors are:
Change in lighting (too bright)
Often change in flow often increasing
Elevated Phos and sometimes nitrate
Pests - black buys and nudibranchs
Drop in calcium... They need calcium of no less than 400
Well, this is most interesting. I checked the Ca levels using a more recent Salisfert test kit and the Ca was 370ppm - measured 2x. I typically run it at 410ppm, so I'm wondering if this might be a factor.

I'm bumping it Ca levels back to 410 over the next couple days.

Nitrates remain at 3.5ppm, PO4 at 0.03, dkh 8.8
 
Nitrates and phosphates are a little low for my comfort. I'd try and bring those up X2

What test kit are you using?
Using Hanna checker for Nitrates and Phosphates - everything else is Salifert. I think I had the cap to the bottle of Ca tester open, so that might have resulted in a 'bad' solution, so I'll use the newer test kit.
 
I would do an iodine dip. Frogs, hammers and torches will start like this if they have an infection and / or flatworms. Hopefully its an infection, but if it is youll need to act fast.
 
I would do an iodine dip. Frogs, hammers and torches will start like this if they have an infection and / or flatworms. Hopefully its an infection, but if it is youll need to act fast.
If flatworms they can also be pretty benign. TLF Revive is OG at removing flatworms. Iodine is good for infections.
 
Thanks - regarding the iodine dip, are we talking about a product such as Brightwell Lugol?
 
Well, this is most interesting. I checked the Ca levels using a more recent Salisfert test kit and the Ca was 370ppm - measured 2x. I typically run it at 410ppm, so I'm wondering if this might be a factor.

I'm bumping it Ca levels back to 410 over the next couple days.

Nitrates remain at 3.5ppm, PO4 at 0.03, dkh 8.8
Calcium does have impact and nitrates could be a little higher (around 10-12)
Again feed mysis, in lieu of powdered plankton foods and assure moderate light and flow. I dont recommend dip Unless absolutely needed- coral is already stressed.
I dont see this as a vermetid issue , nor pest.
 
Thanks - regarding the iodine dip, are we talking about a product such as Brightwell Lugol?
yeah, this a good product. Its very potent so just follow directions carefully. As vetteguy mentioned unless you see signs of infection its probably best to leave it be as its already stressed.

Maybe post a picture under white lights to better ID anything with the coral.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top