Getting overwhelmed...

Layll318

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I’m not stupid and I’ve taken chemistry in college but this sometimes goes over my head. I have never been able to grow coral well and this point I’m not even sure where to start. I test for salinity, Ca, nitrates, Nitrite and PH. For the most part the only thing that tests high is PH. Thought it was the light but I have new ones as well...I amtold it could be the water I use from a lfs but it would seem like I could find something that tests bad if this was the case. I dunno ‍♂️ Thanks if you have ideas in advance.

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What is your ph reading and how old is tank?
What test kit(s) are you using?
 
♦️Ph level I have seen it as high as 9 but normally around 8
♦️Nitrates did spike to like 50 the last time I tested it. Normally though around 20ppm
♦️Current USA orbit lights. On a loop timer. 36”
♦️ And I have it tested weekly at a LFS but maybe I have too much trust in them.

photosynthetic gorgonian I know that is what I have been told but honestly it’s like the healthiest coral I have lol
 
What type of HOB filter is that, And is it for saltwater applications? Sometimes the magnet on those impellers rust, which can cause a lot of problems. I had a rusty magnet, on one of my return pumps whipe out almost all my livestock in my old 300 gallon.
 
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AquaClear110 I believe that came with the tank. I don’t see any rust nor metal really on it.
The tank is 2.5 years old but it was really messed up when I get it.
 
A pH of 8 is fine. A pH of 9 is unlikely unless you are dosing something. You need to know your phosphates to know if the nitrates are too high. You should get your own test kits. You need to know alk, calcium, mag, and phosphates in addition to what you already get tested.
 
Phosphates were .1 last tested.
I will get my own test kits and do some research on that...
 
Are you dosing? High alk will make it go to 9
Nitrates ae at dangerous level which means ammonia likely high.
Coral heslth is based in part by stable readings and you need to take control if your parameters. Feed lightly for a few weeks and i would highly suggest buying an ICP KIT and mailing in water sample for a full analysis
 
What test kits do you use? A pH of 9 is too high. Also, how often do you do water changes and how much water are you changing? Alkalinity is really important as well. Do you test for it? Also, are you dosing? I prefer dosing as opposed to water changes. Water changes will take out nitrates and replenish elements but if nitrates are under control, dosing is my preferred method as the water chemistry stays more stable.
 
You don't test your own water or make your own water? Well, there is your problem (that and lack of knowledge, which doesn't mean you are dumb btw). It is your tank. Why in the world would you trust someone else with such essential tasks?
 
Well.. well water for one is a major issue. The house I live at has horrible water ( like I won’t let my two year old drink tap water) high rust content no matter what process we have tried for 20 years.

the testing is half lazy ( I live 5 min from a store I trust) and the assumption that because of the lack of knowledge they would be a more smart choice but I am starting to think it’s a wrong one.
 
Well.. well water for one is a major issue. The house I live at has horrible water ( like I won’t let my two year old drink tap water) high rust content no matter what process we have tried for 20 years.

the testing is half lazy ( I live 5 min from a store I trust) and the assumption that because of the lack of knowledge they would be a more smart choice but I am starting to think it’s a wrong one.
You should get a RODI system set up and make you own salt water. I use Fritz Blue RPM and have really good results. It is around $65 for a box for 200gals. The RODI will make your water clean so you dont have to worry. I mix 2.5 cups of RPM Blue per 5 gals for 1.025. I know what I am putting in my tank and it is consistent. The LFS your getting your salt water from could change brands and that can cause issues if you do not know. I purchased a 6 stage RODI on Amazon for $125 or so. Easy install. I highly recommend that you move in this direction. It will also save you $$$$ in the long run.
 
Well.. well water for one is a major issue. The house I live at has horrible water ( like I won’t let my two year old drink tap water) high rust content no matter what process we have tried for 20 years.

the testing is half lazy ( I live 5 min from a store I trust) and the assumption that because of the lack of knowledge they would be a more smart choice but I am starting to think it’s a wrong one.

There's nothing wrong with having your LFS test your water. I did that for the first 2 years of reefing. Once I became comfortable with the target numbers for my tank, I started doing my own testing. You'll get there in time. It's actually fun and makes you feel like you're in control. Good luck.
 
There's nothing wrong with having your LFS test your water. I did that for the first 2 years of reefing. Once I became comfortable with the target numbers for my tank, I started doing my own testing. You'll get there in time. It's actually fun and makes you feel like you're in control. Good luck.
I agree the testing and having full control is really fun. I also have a Nano for my son and have him involved with testing, mixing salt, water changes. How many 9 year olds have a reef and can tell you what corals and nems they have? lol
 
♦️Ph level I have seen it as high as 9 but normally around 8
♦️Nitrates did spike to like 50 the last time I tested it. Normally though around 20ppm
♦️Current USA orbit lights. On a loop timer. 36”
♦️ And I have it tested weekly at a LFS but maybe I have too much trust in them.

photosynthetic gorgonian I know that is what I have been told but honestly it’s like the healthiest coral I have lol
Current orbit lights do not have enough PAR for coral other than leathers or mushrooms. PH just alittle above 8.2 is deadly to most coral even for a single day. It's not the PH that gets them. It's the stress weakens them so other things can. And if your nitrates were at 50ppm then your ammonia was high at one point too. Read up more on nitrogen cycle. Which is also deadly. Your tank seems lite on rock. Do you have a sump? A sump tank with more rock gives the nitrifing bacteria a place to live. Do you have a Protein skimmer?
 
I’m not stupid and I’ve taken chemistry in college but this sometimes goes over my head. I have never been able to grow coral well and this point I’m not even sure where to start. I test for salinity, Ca, nitrates, Nitrite and PH. For the most part the only thing that tests high is PH. Thought it was the light but I have new ones as well...I amtold it could be the water I use from a lfs but it would seem like I could find something that tests bad if this was the case. I dunno ‍♂ Thanks if you have ideas in advance.

Most corals you can buy in the hobby require stability over time to grow, stable water parameters, light, accessible food (just keeping corals alive for a while was once the holy grail so we have come along way). The smaller the water volume the more challenging this is. It has very little to do with how smart you are but more to do with how well you can achieve this state consistently in your tank and experience. There is not enough data info in your post to give any specific advice beyond this but know that many corals can be grown successfully now (some species are more challenging than others and some still just slowly die) and with persistence, patience and help from people who do achieve this you can do it too :)
 
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