GHA & Dinos

Elsa Vasquez

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So my tank is shy of a year old and I am going crazy with this outbreak. I’ve done 3-4 day blackouts but Dino’s keep coming back, I also now have what appears to be GHA which looks brown due to the Dino’s. Any suggestions. Should I just remove it manually, by scrubbing the rock? Some of the hair does come off easily but not all of it. It looks so much worse in person.
My parameters are
Alk 8.7
Cal 430
I’m out of phosphate test packages but they should arrive tomorrow. Last I checked it was high at 0.202 ppm :( that was about 5 days ago so we will see what it is tomorrow
Amm 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0-5
 
A little hard to tell but that looks a bit more like bryopsis than GHA.

I am not up on all my sand best practices but maybe someone could weigh in on removing it as a help?
 
A little hard to tell but that looks a bit more like bryopsis than GHA.

I am not up on all my sand best practices but maybe someone could weigh in on removing it as a help?
I thought about bryopsis as well but wasn’t sure. Some of it comes off so easily and in chunks. Some kind of hair algae but definitely Dino’s
 
Can you take a picture of the algae a little closer. It’s hard to tell if it’s Dino’s or diatoms.

Does it have bubbles like the picture?

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A little hard to tell but that looks a bit more like bryopsis than GHA.

I am not up on all my sand best practices but maybe someone could weigh in on removing it as a help?
I believe you’re right. After looking closer this is Bryopsis ugh!!

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I work for an aquarium maintenance company and have delt with this many times. For bryopsis we use reef flux usually knocks it out in a week. Now dinos are a different story. I saw you were talking about using hydrogen peroxide and black outs on another thread. We use h2o2 but it usually only works half the time. The best thing to do in my experience is suck out the Dino’s through a filter sock. Do not do any water changes because the main goal is to starve them out and they feed on silica a trace element. If you don’t have a sump maybe clamp a hose through a sock in a bucket and siphon the Dino’s through the filter sock into the bucket and then pour the water back in. Then black it out for a minimum of 5 days. Cut back on on feeding to every other day and very little food. Dose hydrogen peroxide 1 ml per 10 gallons AT NIGHT. Run phosphate remover in a media bag and Get snails and hermits of you don’t have any maybe a small blenny that will clean the rocks. I would also cut back the lighting schedule until it’s for sure gone after the black out maybe only use the blue lights. If the h2o2 doesn’t work after the black out try Dino x.
 
Got it!! Will definitely try that!! Can I treat the tank with reef flux WHILE doing the black out for the Dino’s?? I have rowaphos I could use for the phosphates, but will my corals be ok if my phosphate drops to 0?
Also how often do you suggest I syphon the Dino’s with the filter sock? Now my tank is due for a water change on Sat so I should hold off for a the week that I’ll be fighting the Dino’s?
 
The corals you have should be fine. I would do the reef flux after you tackle the Dino’s. Siphon the Dino’s every time they show up. And do not do a water change until you haven’t seen the Dino’s for a few days
 
The corals you have should be fine. I would do the reef flux after you tackle the Dino’s. Siphon the Dino’s every time they show up. And do not do a water change until you haven’t seen the Dino’s for a few days
Thank you! I appreciate the help and advice. Will definitely get that started today and hope for the best. Will follow up with you in 1 week :)
 
Have you looked through the Dino sticky at the top of this forum? It helped me immensely with my Dino bloom. There are different types of Dinoflagellates that require different approaches. I was lucky and had a verity that entered the water column. I was able to knock it back almost over night with a cheap UV sterilizer.
 
Have you looked through the Dino sticky at the top of this forum? It helped me immensely with my Dino bloom. There are different types of Dinoflagellates that require different approaches. I was lucky and had a verity that entered the water column. I was able to knock it back almost over night with a cheap UV sterilizer.
Interesting!! Where did buy the UV sterilizer?
 
you should consider two options for your tank, not just one.

the two options differ based on leaving the invader in the tank, where it can be photographed, before starting the work. both methods have pros and cons

one method leaves your invader alone, and you act solely on the water, and wait. If you act solely through the water without cleaning, then the clouding in the sand and rocks is left to fuel cyano for the next challenge.

a cycle of invasions if the clouding is left, and then added to by dying dinos and algae in the display.

the other method is you clean the entire system all at once... and scrape the invader off the rocks, and evacuate the pent up waste that coverage has held within your rock, re establish open pores that exchange water (and increase your filtration abilities, they're clogged currently)

option 2 is literally make the system look brand new in an afternoon's work, end it with a full water change.

what you wait 4 mos for above, and make $ to begin, is halted in option 2 its merely your cleaning that makes it work.

we clean the sandbed to cloudlessness, it will currently cloud if you reach in and grab sand and drop it

this removes invader fuel vs leaving it in your system to break down as more detritus. the wait option/treat through water only adds detritus to your system as the invader dies off slowly, hopefully, after the purchases and arrangements and wait.

I would never use the current method direction in a nano not because it is bad or harmful, but because it is exceedingly slow. We have approximately one hundred examples of full nano restoration on file ready for view and copy, its not a dangerous method to opt out of waiting. it would be # 101 documented fix, in a few hours.

you have to clean the rock a certain way...then its just invader free and put back into the tank fully functional as a filter.

consider only adding UV, and water testing/reactions to params after the full clean.
after you made the tank look new, without wait...you may not need them

we don't need them to make clean tanks in our work threads.

use them as preventatives is a neat option vs using them as the mass reducer, then it dies off and becomes waste, then it slowly cycles out of the tank.

you really could make this shine by tomorrow. I would work a custom rip clean here easily.
 
example: SeaBass' work is the right reference for your tank. We did another separate round of another hundred tanks at nano-reef.com peroxide thread, this matches your job

This tank was rip cleaned, not awaited.

It was free

it worked.
it took two hours.

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2.png
 
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see how SeaBass evacuated the plugging plants off the rock, before treatment

that's key. see how the blanketing growths are instantly removed and this restores all the rock surface + water contact area, formerly insulated off

your ability to process ammonia and metabolites increases phenomenally after manual cleaning of the entire tank, top to bottom, taken apart and cleaned with 100% water change after.

this tank was made to look that clean in pic #2 it was manual removal using rasping tools and it was peroxide assisted which kills off the plants fast

the biofilter does not die, same animals before and after. we pull the sensitive fish and shrimp first before work, hold them elsewhere.

if SB were to now install UV, or start adjusting silicates or nitrate or phosphate as growback prevention vs removal, less amounts of that new material are needed because there is less invader mass to act on. it is free to fix your tank, or perhaps .75 cents for peroxide

there is no negative aspect to the rip clean, unless waiting is simply preferred.

*if option one was used to make that change above, the duration of time is somewhere near 5 months or longer.
 
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see how SeaBass evacuated the plugging plants off the rock, before treatment

that's key. see how the blanketing growths are instantly removed and this restores all the rock surface + water contact area, formerly insulated off

your ability to process ammonia and metabolites increases phenomenally after manual cleaning of the entire tank, top to bottom, taken apart and cleaned with 100% water change after.

this tank was made to look that clean in pic #2 it was manual removal using rasping tools and it was peroxide assisted which kills off the plants fast

the biofilter does not die, same animals before and after. we pull the sensitive fish and shrimp first before work, hold them elsewhere.

if SB were to now install UV, or start adjusting silicates or nitrate or phosphate as growback prevention vs removal, less amounts of that new material are needed because there is less invader mass to act on. it is free to fix your tank, or perhaps .75 cents for peroxide

there is no negative aspect to the rip clean, unless waiting is simply preferred.

*if option one was used to make that change above, the duration of time is somewhere near 5 months or longer.
That is amazing!! I reread it twice lol soo just to make sure I understood, you pulled out the rock and with tools scrapped off all the algea correct? When was the peroxide used? In the water you were scrapping the algea off?
 
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...r-a-full-rework-skip-cycle-reassembly.525310/

You have $ on the line with big tank cleanings, best to read it all it’s only about fifteen mins.

That’s the job :) consider the angles before we do anything to see how true surgery works.

Just pondering and prep so far, and a little test. No big work yet so we consider and plan safe, no loss surgery

That thread is meant for full system cleaning.

Without cleaning the tank yet, you can lift out any portion of rock that is easy to get to and won’t topple the rest over and make a cloud in the display so we can do a test

Lift out that rock and set it on the counter. If there’s a coral attached, nbd mine stay in the air. Yours can have saltwater dribbled across it, be creative they’re tough.

Use a steak knife to tip precisely and drag, scrape, debride like wound cleaning all the crud off /half/ a test rock and leave the other half invaded and don’t touch the sand yet. We are removing only one rock carefully and seeing how it responds to a target cleaning before we run the whole tank


We test to see how the growths respond, how the cleaned area looks after a few days. No harm to your tank since we do not stir things up we are spot testing using external work outside the tank


Once the knifing and scraping has dislodged/cleared truly half a rock + bunch of saltwater only rinsing so that the worked section is clear, like sea bass above, that clear, then just open a bottle of peroxide and pour across the clean section only avoiding the coral if any. Don’t pour on the bad section of the rocks this is a knifing and rasping and peroxide at the end for a perfectly fixed single area

Rinse the rock off well with saltwater as you work it so it doesn’t bring cloud into the tank when you put it back to be charted among the non worked areas

If you like how it looks in a week, then we do the rip clean where even the entire sandbed is taken apart and rinsed fully and all the rocks get the job all at once.

If you decide in a week it doesn’t look awesome we’ve hurt nothing and risked nothing having learned at least for sure what half a test rock does. As of now, any guess is valid. After a test rock, you actually know something specific about your invader, how it rebounds, if it stays dead etc

It will take time and precision work to rasp with a knife half a cleaned rock as clean as sea bass above but that’s the deal with waiting, still needs done. The peroxide doesn’t go on the target, it goes on the fully cleaned area only, let sit two minutes, rinse that scrape area and put rock back.


We don’t need to know the type of invader you have or your water params which is interesting, this method works on all invaders.

Reef flux is best applied to the clean condition tank, as growback prevention
 
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you need to know a side disclaimer

The lysmata shrimp is the weakest animal we keep. They can die during rip cleans if exposed to peroxide or tank clouding, nothing else you have is ultra sensitive

Selling him back till this is fixed is guaranteed to save him

We can work well with them too, but we can’t let the loss risk of one shrimp cause your whole system to be in challenge/ aquarium takes priority just wanted to point out the lysmata is iffy. I give him a 95% chance he’ll survive our surgery process, 5% chance he won’t due to process error allowance or unexpected events
 

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