GHA & Dinos

you need to know a side disclaimer

The lysmata shrimp is the weakest animal we keep. They can die during rip cleans if exposed to peroxide or tank clouding, nothing else you have is ultra sensitive

Selling him back till this is fixed is guaranteed to save him

We can work well with them too, but we can’t let the loss risk of one shrimp cause your whole system to be in challenge/ aquarium takes priority just wanted to point out the lysmata is iffy. I give him a 95% chance he’ll survive our surgery process, 5% chance he won’t due to process error allowance or unexpected events
I will take the challenge!!! So my rock is a single 7lb caribsea shapes life rock and I added an anemone that is extremely happy where I have it. I tried to move it but it won’t let go :/ will it be ok out the water for a lengthy period of time?
 
Great :) the pre testing will go well and not be a risk to anything

Check this little gem someone did once on similar: use big salad bowl dish to hold tank water

Keep anem portion wet, expose/tilt work side up for the surgery... Perfect safe access. The rock is basically a big tooth and you're about to dentist a portion of it... tartar and plaque scraping coming up, avoiding the gums and sensitive areas it's really just like that. Pick easy area of that test rock to truly scrape clean a good 4 inch diameter portion of it, use that knife well
if you scrape a little bit of rock area to clear, that's no harm. dentist makes gums bleed by being thorough as well, all similar actions.
 
Great :) the pre testing will go well and not be a risk to anything

Check this little gem someone did once on similar: use big salad bowl dish to hold tank water

Keep anem portion wet, expose/tilt work side up for the surgery... Perfect safe access. The rock is basically a big tooth and you're about to dentist a portion of it... tartar and plaque scraping coming up, avoiding the gums and sensitive areas it's really just like that. Pick easy area of that test rock to truly scrape clean a good 4 inch diameter portion of it, use that knife well
if you scrape a little bit of rock area to clear, that's no harm. dentist makes gums bleed by being thorough as well, all similar actions.
Oh I will be to town on the side work!! :) I’m soo excited for this!!! I will post follow ups!
 
Brandon makes some great points! This may work for bryopsis or whatever hair algae it is but in my experience Dino’s are relentless. They will come back time and time again. What light are you running? Just curious. We have taken an entire tank apart before bleached everything including pumps hoses etc.. it showed up 2 months later
 
Brandon makes some great points! This may work for bryopsis or whatever hair algae it is but in my experience Dino’s are relentless. They will come back time and time again. What light are you running? Just curious. We have taken an entire tank apart before bleached everything including pumps hoses etc.. it showed up 2 months later
Ugh that is annoying!!! I’m using the ai prime hd
 
Okay those aren’t bad. We haven’t seen a correlation between those and Dino’s, but we have seen a correlation between radions and Dino. Screen shot your lighting percentages at mid day so I can see what your running
 
All good information . I love all of Brandon's post, by faR uses the word rasp more than anyone in history . All good information, start with one problem then move on to reef flux for the bryopsis. The dino sticky thread is a really good place to gather knowledge about what you're dealing with . I cant imagine trying a uv would be harmful. You have a small tank you can just get the little 9w green machine from petsmart for a week or 2 and see if it helps along with the other advice given . You can always return it like I did lol. Hope you battle through it
 
Notice how no cure approach so far has been evaluated after a rip clean, they’re all polar opposite of

:)


That means results might change when you evaluate methods in a cloudless system

If we polled any reef author in history up till possibly recently the idea of a rip cleaning was the worst idea ever and they would never recommend it, so why should it be considered / agreed

Because many tanks are invaded and they’re outpacing uninvaded ones, we need progressing science, and we need people willing to stack work for pattern watch.



There are patterns in data linked below:

1. We don’t care about name brand of anything and it doesn’t factor in cures. Finding a willing poster is what determines cures. If they’re open to a rip clean then they’re cured apparently :)



api, Red Sea, instant ocean, reef crystals, Fiji pink, ocean direct, Home Depot sand, tropic marine, oceanic, Kent, *lighting name brand* tank name brand sandbed name brand salifert we don’t care or need it to help...we need to know the gallons of your tank and whether or not you are willing to be uninvaded



2. The invaders aren’t hard to beat, it’s the keeper resolve that matters. Most want to store up invaders then do the least possible in order to gain ground out of fear of what bacteria can tolerate, we didn’t, keepers give kick back when you instruct them to go against what the masses would do or what authors said was okay.

3. We don’t need your parameters measured for nitrate and phosphate to fix your tank. For pages. Nutrient tuning is for growback prevention, we reset your tank like day 1. How you reef going forward is up to you, we’re a time machine going backwards to day one without you killing the tank (skip cycle work)




Sandbeds cured
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ead-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445


Peroxide work, which is not dosing peroxide into the tank water.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/



Those two threads, the before and after pics in them, are the basis for the recommended approach. This system is powerful for nanos and hard to run on large tanks due to sheer size


Reef tank invasions are a matter of psychology long before they’re a matter of biology, neato fact emerging from the non safe zone of live time tank works. The cause of every invasion we show is simple hesitation which is a choice

Hesitation because:
-Touch a sandbed and the tank could cycle. So we fixed that, now you can touch
-you can’t remove rocks in the air it will cycle. Fixed, I drain my reef for half an hour on video there and it’s 13 yrs of coral.
-peroxide will cause a cycle. Fixed, there’s seven years of work linked. Use it however you want it never affects your cycle. Using it wrong affects your non bacterial systems.
-you can’t do a water change on dinos they’ll bloom. Fixed, how many posters have dinos due to having them rinse their sandbeds in tap water and do a 100% water change?


Reef rules are so flexible. The fact you have a nano means you’re as good as cured. If you have to do more than one rip clean since all priors haven’t been ran, then this changes the way you nano reef from here on out, you’ll be instructing the tank on how to behave you won’t be waiting and hoping. You will be commanding it w pics to prove



Scraping half a portion of rock clean and some rinse peroxide is easy, no big work to at least see what your new cleared window does compared to other areas over time

The act of prepping the single spot for observation is the first in the series of choices to be uninvaded. Doesn’t have to progress any further than the single spot. You’ll truly know something about the invader at that point, a few days later, if it was worth the initial work. That spot might stay clean
 
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There is so much info in this thread! Alot of good stuff.

I wanted to share my exp and what worked for me for my GHA and dino problem. This is going to sound strange but it was recommended to me and it worked.

I lowered my phosphate and nitrate to undetectable and let the dinos take over. When they started to flourish the GHA started to die off. Turned brown and then just went away.

So then you say "WHAT ABOUT THE DINOS!?"
I then stopped all water changes and started over feeding the tank. Dinos are terrible at processing food and are easily out competed by other algae. Soon as I added enough food source for something else to eat it killed off the dinos. Once they were gone I did a massive water change to lower the nutrients.

Here are a couple pics
20190206_150551.jpg
20190223_142935.jpg
20190223_142907.jpg
20190223_142855.jpg
20190402_181000.jpg
 
There is so much info in this thread! Alot of good stuff.

I wanted to share my exp and what worked for me for my GHA and dino problem. This is going to sound strange but it was recommended to me and it worked.

I lowered my phosphate and nitrate to undetectable and let the dinos take over. When they started to flourish the GHA started to die off. Turned brown and then just went away.

So then you say "WHAT ABOUT THE DINOS!?"
I then stopped all water changes and started over feeding the tank. Dinos are terrible at processing food and are easily out competed by other algae. Soon as I added enough food source for something else to eat it killed off the dinos. Once they were gone I did a massive water change to lower the nutrients.

Here are a couple pics
20190206_150551.jpg
20190223_142935.jpg
20190223_142907.jpg
20190223_142855.jpg
20190402_181000.jpg
Ugh I hate seeing it like that!!! But I will give that a try as well. My phosphates are almost at 0 so I’ll let it be see if I have the same success. I haven been able to scrape my rock like Brandon suggested but that’s because of my work schedule :(. So from the time you let it be to all Dino’s @ GHA left how long was it?? I believe I have Bryopsis though not gha
 
I saw that when I was reading through about bryopsis. Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I've never had bryopsis. So my experience on extends so far.

It took about 2-3 weeks. I put in phosban and I have a refugium for cheato. I cut back on feeding so the nitrates would drop. You can even do a water change to help lower nitrates. Then you just let nature run it course.

The way I did it takes patience but you dont have to tear your tank down. It will look ugly but keep your goal in mind!
 
I work for an aquarium maintenance company and have delt with this many times. For bryopsis we use reef flux usually knocks it out in a week. Now dinos are a different story. I saw you were talking about using hydrogen peroxide and black outs on another thread. We use h2o2 but it usually only works half the time. The best thing to do in my experience is suck out the Dino’s through a filter sock. Do not do any water changes because the main goal is to starve them out and they feed on silica a trace element. If you don’t have a sump maybe clamp a hose through a sock in a bucket and siphon the Dino’s through the filter sock into the bucket and then pour the water back in. Then black it out for a minimum of 5 days. Cut back on on feeding to every other day and very little food. Dose hydrogen peroxide 1 ml per 10 gallons AT NIGHT. Run phosphate remover in a media bag and Get snails and hermits of you don’t have any maybe a small blenny that will clean the rocks. I would also cut back the lighting schedule until it’s for sure gone after the black out maybe only use the blue lights. If the h2o2 doesn’t work after the black out try Dino x.
This is exactly what I did when I had dino outbreak in my biocube. I stopped water change and sucked dinos manually with a hose and let the water run thru filter sock. I also used a turkey baster and would suck up the dinos. Dosing microbacter also helped.
 
I took my rocks out and scrubbed them with a stiff brush in a bucket tank water. Best thing I did and will annually do this from now on. The water left in the bucket looked like coffee or muddy water. I then siphoned all my sand really well. This made a big difference in my tank. I put in two urchins and they are keeping things really clean. My advice is take out some rock and scrub it. My tank is a 125. It took me about two hours.
 
Im definitely going to take out my rock and scrape it!! Then deal with the Dino’s as naturally as I can. At this point I’m willing to try everything and anything. Im taking all suggestions and doing them! If the Dino’s can just stay on the sandbed that’ll be great. I just don’t want to loose my corals. Then if the bryopsis doesn’t clear I will treat with Reef flux. Ugh I just want a bad butt IG tank lol. Can’t wait to get past this crap. Thank you to each of you for the help i truly appreciate it!! Love my reefing community <3 I’m sure lots of us including myself would have given up if it wasn’t for the awesome support we give each other! I will definitely keep y’all updated. I work all day but will start the scrapping tonight after work or tomorrow morning :)
 
Support is the best. It's always reassuring to hear from seasoned veterans that they have struggled too. It's all about patience and perseverance. The number 1 reason ppl break down their tanks is from lack of patience. Expecting fast fixes that happen over night. The reward is a beautiful tank at the end of the storm.

All those IG tanks are from years of dedication and development.

The R2R community is the best for sure
 
One method I used in my JBJ 28g when I had a hair outbreak was to increase my Magnesium levels to 1600ppm and after a week the hair algae just withers away.
 
One method I used in my JBJ 28g when I had a hair outbreak was to increase my Magnesium levels to 1600ppm and after a week the hair algae just withers away.
I have yet to purchase a kit to test my magnesium levels. Ugh this is horrible to look at!!!

6EAC66AC-341E-4967-865B-869A5DB4BAEF.jpeg


29020A81-B8EF-4504-B0DA-3CE0811A93D7.jpeg


6CEE8FC3-BF16-41BE-B03C-130DCCA15AE6.jpeg
 

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