Gilroy 425g Build Thread (All Apex, all the time)

Right now I have an old links us cam from five years ago. Going to something else soon. Just haven't decided what.
 
Oh, and on very large tanks, like mine, I think that an AWC using the new PMUP would be the best approach. The amount of time it would need to be on would be maybe 8-10 minutes to do 10 gallons each day. Using OSC and time statements, The accuracy might be +/- 3 seconds (max) - which would be less than .05% or about a half of cup of water - hardly anything to get worried about - 3.5 cups a week. Every three months it might show some sort of slight salinity shift (due to correction by ATO) that then could be corrected for. The one thing that would have to be worked out though is how things might be different with a full vs. a nearly empty reservoir. One might have to construct a floating rig for the pump to keep the static pressure equal as the tank drops.
I am setting up a awc with two of the pmup pumps I'm going to relay on Floats in my sump and max run timer as a back up. I would really like to use some optical sensors any idea when they will be out ??
 
Please explain the two containers in the image below the two DOS units.
The one on the left is RODI storage. The one on the right is pre-mixed saltwater that is being used for automatic water change.
 
... on very large tanks, like mine, I think that an AWC using the new PMUP would be the best approach...
@Terence if you were starting from scratch now with a system of about twice the size of your DT would you implement ATO and AWC with DOS or with PMUP devices?

You cited concern about the change in static pressure on a PMUP as a reservoir level drops and mentioned a floating platform to hold the PMUP at a constant depth of water to eliminate varying depth as a variable. Will Neptune Systems PLEASE design and sell such a platform for us users so NS can offer an proper kit for ATO and AWC.
 
ATO for a tank that size is easy. I would use the PMUP and a system of optical switches and a float valve for extra safety should the electrical system fail you.

For the AWS on a tank that big, it is a much more difficult decision. Much testing would have to be done and it is much harder to create a universal system. That is why the DOS is a good solution for tanks/systems about 600g or smaller.
 
100K+ views of this thread in just 16 months! We are in the top-10 of all build threads and possibly the fastest to hit 100K!

:D WOOHOO! :D

Thanks for tuning in guys, its been fun!
 
100K+ views of this thread in just 16 months! We are in the top-10 of all build threads and possibly the fastest to hit 100K!

:D WOOHOO! :D

Thanks for tuning in guys, its been fun!

Well yea....You're Terence from Neptune! Duh!
 
Well yea....You're Terence from Neptune! Duh!
Maybe so, but first and foremost I am a very passionate reefkeeper.

I wish more company-leaders were participating at this scale in the hobby and sharing their experiences. It is so much fun, it keeps me connected, and allows me to have empathy for the customer at all times. I keep aquariums at both ends of the spectrum too - a 10g in my office with nice LPS as well as this monster.

I am going for #1 sometime in 2017 Rev!
 
Amazing updates! Those pictures are fantastic! The fish are looking quite happy. Have you done any more tweaks / updates to your Apex programming? I don't remember reading about how you implemented the new power features of the new power bar.
 
So last week we had a visit to our office from probably the best LFS in the bay area - Neptune Aquatics. (www.neptuneaquatics.com). The owners (Robert and Cerissa) came down to our office to pick up their most recent order. To my very pleasant surprise, Robert came bearing gifts! WOW, were they amazing.

First off, my all time favorite zoanthid is the blue hornet. Now back a few years when my 210 was doing so incredible I had a giant colony of them and the heads were the size of dimes and nickels. It was amazing. I even have kept an early pic of them on as my phone home screen since then without ever taking it down. That's how much I love this coral. Since back then I have only seen them one place where they looked that good - and that was in Cerissa's nano tank at their store. I commented on them every time I went in. Well, guess what - In my little rubbermaid was a really nice three head frag!

Along with it though were some really nice LPS pieces including Roberts watermelon chalice that he has been selling for years.

I got them home, dipped them, and got them into the display as fast as possible and nearly a week later they are all doing well. I only was able to snap a few decent pics of them so far.

If you happen to be in the San Jose area - absolutely make time to visit Neptune Aquatics.

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Amazing updates! Those pictures are fantastic! The fish are looking quite happy. Have you done any more tweaks / updates to your Apex programming? I don't remember reading about how you implemented the new power features of the new power bar.

There are a couple of tricks I have employed that might be interesting to some. But nothing over the top. One thing I did that is super simple that makes using multiple heaters much easier is to use a "Master Heat" virtual outlet (use the Heater wizard on it if you like) and then have your heaters all come on or off based on that one outlet (If OUTLET Master_Ht = ON Then ON). The reason this simplifies things is now if you want to change the set point of your heaters you only have to do it in one place. Also, if you have other code for the heaters you do not have to update it always across all two or three heaters.

As far as the power monitoring features on the Apex, this is a feature people really won't know they need - until they needed it. :)

I have used this already to know when my Reef Octopus Skimmer pump stalled.

What is also great about it is that it does not require you to do any programming at all to use it. In fact, if all you want to know is if a device is dead when it should be on, you can simply check a box. If you know the upper and lower normal operating range, the screen below is all you need to do to configure it! The image below is the settings for my Sicce Calcium Reactor pump. Those of you that have been following along know I have gone through my share of AquaBee pumps so this feature is a great addition for me to make sure my CR is always pumping.

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Terence.....forgive me if this was covered but did you decide to go with MH's? if so what bulb are you using?
I'll forgive you, no problem. But I won't let you off that easy! Go back a few pages, lots of good info and no reason for me to repeat it all again. Besides, I want to up my views count as much as I can - I do have a goal ;)
 
So, some wanted to know more about how I have configured things in my Apex. Here is a great way to see how my lighting is set up.

LED-RB = Rear Blues
LED-FB = Front Blues
LED-WW = Warm Whites
LED-CW = Cool Whites

Those are represented by the lines. Three of them overlap, the warm whites I run lower intensity in the mix.

The filled areas represent the power used by my metal halides. I still do not have the right dimming cable so they are just coming on at 100% for now.

The 0-10V or other outlets that use the graphs are really nice for doing compares when coordinating multiple outlets on/off times.

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IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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