Glb's 40g upgrade!

Yea, flip that around to and connect the silicone tubing coming from the pump to it. that will quiet the air noise more.

Happy reefing! [emoji41]
I have that upside down too?
 
Here's another question. How can i set up my ato so it doesn't syphon. The container is to the right of the sump. Does the tubing need to go higher than the top of the sump and stop above the top of the ato container?
 
Also, the overflow pipe is pretty noisy. Is that going to go away or do I need to fix it? The return pump is on low right now.
 
Here's another question. How can i set up my ato so it doesn't syphon. The container is to the right of the sump. Does the tubing need to go higher than the top of the sump and stop above the top of the ato container?

The end of the output line (where the water drains into the system) should always be higher than the water level in the ATO container. That will prevent a back siphon
 
Also, the overflow pipe is pretty noisy. Is that going to go away or do I need to fix it? The return pump is on low right now.

Sorry I'm not much help here since I really haven't looked into the durso setup a whole lot. Since I was going with the BA I only did research on that. You might try posting a separate message on the DIY forums or a Google search might yield some results.
 
I have that upside down too?

Here's how you need to connect the air vent.

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1464219405.446390.jpg
 
@glb - any updates?
I ordered this pvc sealant that's coming tomorrow. It's in a stick and I'm hoping that will help. I have a tiny leak at the external gasket on the overflow. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and look for a cause. I ran the system for several hours with freshwater and things look great other than the small leak. I'm also going to order the Fischer Wye Check valve as a safety backup. The water syphons quickly down the return line if I turn off the pump. I keep the nozzle right at the water line but all it would take is a slight jostle to push it lower and cause a flood if the power goes out. I still need to order rocks and sand too. I'm out of town mid-June so I'm going to wait until I get back to start with the cycle. That will give me plenty of time to tinker with it before things go live. How is yours??
 
Where is the noise coming from? Inside the overflow box or where the water goes into the filter sock?
Actually it's in vertical drop in the overflow pipe. I haven't cranked up the return pump to a higher setting so maybe when there's more water it will quiet down.
 
I used the thread sealant stick on my threaded PVC for the return as well. It is a great product! Make sure to apply it liberally. It forms a nice sticky seal in between the threads. Doesn't tear apart like Teflon tape does sometimes.
My tank is doing great. Still haven't had a diatom bloom. Though I'm breaking in the lights very slowly. I moved over all my euphyllia and zoas and they're all looking great. Today I moved over the acans and a couple of stylo frags. So I'm anxious to see how those do. If they open up and look good through tomorrow I might move over some SPS on Sunday.
 
Actually it's in vertical drop in the overflow pipe. I haven't cranked up the return pump to a higher setting so maybe when there's more water it will quiet down.

Is it creating a good siphon? Sometimes if there's not enough flow to create a full siphon it could result in some noise.
 
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Is it creating a good siphon? Sometimes if there's not enough flow to create a full siphon it could result in some noise.
Does it create a syphon if there's an air pipe on the top of the airflow? Should the air tube be pushed down into the water flow? I don't know much about this.
 
Just bought the Fischer Wye check valve. I see that the valve ends are the same size as the pvc. So you use couplings to attach it? I don't have room for unions where it's going. I decided this was a must-have before starting the tank after seeing how quickly the syphon sucks water down to the sump when the pump is turned off. $50 is worth it to avoid flood-o-rama. Also my pvc joint compound came today so I'll disassemble the overflow, inspect everything and try again. The return plumbing has no leaks so I'm inclined to just leave it alone.
 
Does it create a syphon if there's an air pipe on the top of the airflow? Should the air tube be pushed down into the water flow? I don't know much about this.

Honestly I'm really not sure since I haven't done too much research into durso setups. Sorry! I would hate to say something that might not be correct. Maybe post a question in the DIY forum? Folks there should certainly be able to help diagnose the issue.
 
Just bought the Fischer Wye check valve. I see that the valve ends are the same size as the pvc. So you use couplings to attach it? I don't have room for unions where it's going. I decided this was a must-have before starting the tank after seeing how quickly the syphon sucks water down to the sump when the pump is turned off. $50 is worth it to avoid flood-o-rama. Also my pvc joint compound came today so I'll disassemble the overflow, inspect everything and try again. The return plumbing has no leaks so I'm inclined to just leave it alone.

Sorry I just saw this post. What size is your return PVC? And the size of the valve? Did you get your wye valve from BRS as well? My 3/4" retun PVC fits perfectly inside the stem of the 1" Wye valve. It doesn't slide in as much as you would see with other typical PVC fittings. But I was assured that with an adequate seal using PVC cement, it should be fine.
 
Sorry I just saw this post. What size is your return PVC? And the size of the valve? Did you get your wye valve from BRS as well? My 3/4" retun PVC fits perfectly inside the stem of the 1" Wye valve. It doesn't slide in as much as you would see with other typical PVC fittings. But I was assured that with an adequate seal using PVC cement, it should be fine.
My return is 3/4" pvc. The brs site said that the valve is sized for the type of pipe it fits into. I hope I didn't order the wrong size. If the valve is exactly 3/4", I can use couplings.
 
My return is 3/4" pvc. The brs site said that the valve is sized for the type of pipe it fits into. I hope I didn't order the wrong size. If the valve is exactly 3/4", I can use couplings.

I'm almost certain you ordered the wrong size [emoji20] The reason I know this is I first ordered the 1" valve and when I saw how small of a 'lip' the 3/4 PVC slips into I thought I had ordered the wrong part. I ordered the 1" valve thinking the PVC would go over the valve stem. Negative. The diameter is exactly the same as the 3/4 pipe. So I called them and they told me the 1" is the correct size for the 3/4 PVC. If you want to be absolutely sure call them and explain your issue and they should be able to direct you to the correct part which probably will be the 1" valve.
 
I'm almost certain you ordered the wrong size [emoji20] The reason I know this is I first ordered the 1" valve and when I saw how small of a 'lip' the 3/4 PVC slips into I thought I had ordered the wrong part. I ordered the 1" valve thinking the PVC would go over the valve stem. Negative. The diameter is exactly the same as the 3/4 pipe. So I called them and they told me the 1" is the correct size for the 3/4 PVC. If you want to be absolutely sure call them and explain your issue and they should be able to direct you to the correct part which probably will be the 1" valve.
I'll wait to get it. In the instructions it says the valve fits into fittings. It's well on its way now! Maybe there's more than one way to make it work!
 
My last (and most expensive) piece of plumbing, a George Fischer wye check valve. It connected fine using couplings. No more backflow into the sump!
image.jpeg
 
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