Going to hard plumb my sump this weekend. Any tips?

Bustyraker · Jan 11, 2017

I'm going to be ditching the flex tubing and hard plumbing my sump this weekend. I have no experience with plumbing but I do have a friend who does giving me a hand. Are there any do's and don't regarding glues or sealants when building the plumbing. It will be on my existing system. How long should I let everything dry before turning on my return pump?

mfinn · Jan 11, 2017

I have read that you don't need to use the pvc cleaner ( usually purple), but I still do.
But I use the clear cleaner. I hate seeing a nice plumbing job ruined by purple cleaner all over the joints.
I also keep a couple rags handy to clean off excess glue after I push the glued fittings together.
I usually wait about a half hour before running water through new pvc after glueing.

redfishbluefish · Jan 11, 2017

Even though code requires the purple cleaner, I know my local HD still sells the clear cleaner.

Tips:

1. Use unions on equipment you know you'll need to remove to service.

2. Put glue on both the pipe and fitting, push together and now turn a quarter turn and hold for ten seconds until glue sets.

3. As far as waiting to turn your system back on, it's actually ready to go as soon as you get it all assembled. I asked a mechanical contractor about this on a pressurized water line and his comment was that you couldn't get back to the main shut off quick enough to effect the joint just glued.

4. If direction of the pipe is critical, use a Sharpie to put an alignment line on the fitting and pipe and use them to align when you glue.

revhtree · Jan 11, 2017

Depending on how much you have to plum a table saw is a good idea! It saved m a ton of time and body aches! LOL!

Rob Lion · Jan 11, 2017

think about having a short bit of flexible connecting your return pump to the hard plumbed line, it allows for a little wiggle room and stops transmitting any pump vibrations up to the display tank.

xREEFINaintEZx · Jan 11, 2017

redfishbluefish said:
Even though code requires the purple cleaner, I know my local HD still sells the clear cleaner.

Tips:

1. Use unions on equipment you know you'll need to remove to service.

2. Put glue on both the pipe and fitting, push together and now turn a quarter turn and hold for ten seconds until glue sets.

3. As far as waiting to turn your system back on, it's actually ready to go as soon as you get it all assembled. I asked a mechanical contractor about this on a pressurized water line and his comment was that you couldn't get back to the main shut off quick enough to effect the joint just glued.

4. If direction of the pipe is critical, use a Sharpie to put an alignment line on the fitting and pipe and use them to align when you glue.

i lay pvc all day. this pretty much sums it up, step 2 is vital you dont hold them the fitting backs out. depending on how much$$$ in the tank id wait 30-hour to turn it on

mfinn · Jan 11, 2017

revhtree said:
Depending on how much you have to plum a table saw is a good idea! It saved m a ton of time and body aches! LOL!

Good tip. I used my old Craftsman miter saw.

hawkinsrgk · Jan 11, 2017

I use a miter saw as well for all pvc cuts

epstein · Jan 11, 2017

unions unions unions.... and dont cheap out with gate valves....

recess62 · Jan 11, 2017

Have extra parts available. Nothing more frustrating than messing up and realizing you need another part then heading to home depot

mfinn · Jan 11, 2017

recess62 said:
Have extra parts available. Nothing more frustrating than messing up and realizing you need another part then heading to home depot

Ahh, we all make that extra trip or two, don't we?

ReeferMaddness843 · Jan 11, 2017

Dry fit everything and measure twice cut once.

Reef_Collector28 · Jan 11, 2017

No need for PVC primer/cleaner. Use regular clear PVC cement. Make sure to dry fit them before actually gluing. It's impossible to take them apart after gluing. Make sure to let it cure over night. When you finally run the tank make sure you thoroughly check for leaks. If you do have one shut the tank off and dry the area, I usually saturate the leaky PVC joint and let each layer dry before reapplying.

Salty1962 · Jan 11, 2017

Try and use 45 degree elbows, helps with the noise and flow restriction.

Thomasj616 · Jan 11, 2017

I'm a superintendent for multiple complexes.
I have a 125 mixed reef that is hard plumbed.
Best tool to get is a pvc cutter.
Home Depot and lowes sell them. They will cut up to 1 1/2".
It's like a pair of channel locks that cut!
They only cost like $ 20.00.
So worth it!!!!!!
No pvc shavings everywhere

Higher Thinking · Jan 11, 2017

I ran my sump from the entry way closet to my living room on the opposite wall. All hard plumbed underneath the house. A couple things I would advise:

I second the point about using a Sharpie to mark important angles. Keep in mind that when dry fitting, you typically don't insert the pipe as far as you would once you apply cement. So just realize that the pipe will likely go in a bit further once your welding it.

Also, I would not recommend "gluing" over any potential leaks. PVC does not go together with glue. It is chemically welded with the correct cement. Applying the cement over a leak is about as shoddy as it gets. Just cut the piece out and use couplers to put a new piece in.

Most bulk heads are ABS which require a different cement than PVC. Luckily, they have cement made for ABS and PVC. It's more expensive than regular PVC cement, but it's the correct choice when welding PVC to ABS bulkheads.

I agree that a simple twist and holding in place for about fifteen seconds is all you need. Although even the twist is likely unnecessary. As was previously mentioned, use the cement on both the male and female ends. Be sure to cover all the surface completely.

Oh yeah, I never used primer myself. That's just my choice though. It's made to soften the PVC a bit and make sure it welds correctly, but there are countless people who forego using it. If there are any dirty pieces, you can use alcohol to clean them before welding.

Maritimer · Jan 11, 2017

Thomasj616 said:
Best tool to get is a pvc cutter.
Home Depot and lowes sell them. They will cut up to 1 1/2".
It's like a pair of channel locks that cut!
They only cost like $ 20.00.
So worth it!!!!!!
No pvc shavings everywhere

+1. I got one of these guys, and not only are there no shavings on the carpet in front of the tank, there are no shavings restricting the flow inside the pipe, and there are no shavings in between the pipes and the fittings, interfering with the glue. These are things that please me! Each cut takes just a minute or three - maybe not quite as fast as a power saw, but also don't have to de-burr the ends of the pipes.

They take a bit more muscle than I originally expected, but they're doable. (If I can cut with them, so could most women & larger kids, LOL!)

~Bruce, easing into his first plumbing job, and well outside his comfort zone . . .

Daniel Strickland · Jan 11, 2017

Gorilla PVC cement is made to use without cleaner.. I just put my system together and used Gorilla on every joint. Not a single leak. At least not at a glued joint LOL... I didn't apply to both sides either didn't want the mess from the squeeze out. I just applied to one side (usually the female) and gave it a good twist.. Yes I know this is not the "right" way to do it but I have laid a lot of PVC over the years and it works just fine with less mess, you do have a bigger chance of a leak tho..

Don't forget the sharpie.. mark you cuts and angles.. measure twice cut once..

+1 on the PVC cutters.

Best investment you can make...

Other than that, take your time and have fun. I really enjoyed the plumbing part of my setup..

Bradw18 · Jan 11, 2017

Those cutters are a life saver. Makes quick work of plumbing smaller pipe. Not good for anything thin walled as it'll sometimes crack the pipe. Found out it's best to get pipe room temp or above freezing at least before working with

Maritimer · Jan 12, 2017

Higher Thinking said:
Most bulk heads are ABS which require a different cement than PVC. Luckily, they have cement made for ABS and PVC. It's more expensive than regular PVC cement, but it's the correct choice when welding PVC to ABS bulkheads.

Just noticed this, thought it deserved highlighting, since I'd wager that just about everyone who's planning to plumb an aquarium is planning to use a bulkhead. (I know I am, and didn't realize I might need a different cement for them!)

~Bruce