Going to hard plumb my sump this weekend. Any tips?

[madreefer11]

Gorilla PVC cement is made to use without cleaner.. I just put my system together and used Gorilla on every joint. Not a single leak. At least not at a glued joint LOL... I didn't apply to both sides either didn't want the mess from the squeeze out. I just applied to one side (usually the female) and gave it a good twist.. Yes I know this is not the "right" way to do it but I have laid a lot of PVC over the years and it works just fine with less mess, you do have a bigger chance of a leak tho..

Don't forget the sharpie.. mark you cuts and angles.. measure twice cut once..

+1 on the PVC cutters.

Best investment you can make...

Other than that, take your time and have fun. I really enjoyed the plumbing part of my setup..

This^^^^^^

 

[eschulist]

I have a pair of cutters and am doing a new build. Is there a trick to using PVC cutters to get 90 degree perpendicular cuts? Each cut seems to be at a 70-80 degree angle.

 

[Daniel Strickland]

I have a pair of cutters and am doing a new build. Is there a trick to using PVC cutters to get 90 degree perpendicular cuts? Each cut seems to be at a 70-80 degree angle.

The better the cutters you start out with the easier it is to get square cuts. But even with my cheapie pair if you take your time and start out with them squared off to the pipe they do pretty good. (Which is plenty good enough if you set the pipe all the way into the coupler).

 

[MaiReef]

Those cutters are a life saver. Makes quick work of plumbing smaller pipe. Not good for anything thin walled as it'll sometimes crack the pipe. Found out it's best to get pipe room temp or above freezing at least before working with

Just compress thin walled pvc if used for drain then spin the tool around the pipe adding more pressure and it will slice without cracking.

 

[Roy 9121]

I have read that you don't need to use the pvc cleaner ( usually purple), but I still do.
But I use the clear cleaner. I hate seeing a nice plumbing job ruined by purple cleaner all over the joints.
I also keep a couple rags handy to clean off excess glue after I push the glued fittings together.
I usually wait about a half hour before running water through new pvc after glueing.

I'm a plumber, so i have a little experience with this. You could probably get away without using the primer because the system is not under very much pressure. Just sand the joints with some sand clothe, just enough tho take the shine off of the plastic. Also, if you use the Christies red hot blue glue you don't have to use primer with that.

 

[Maritimer]

I've a question that fits here . . .

The tank I'm working on is pre-owned, and the standpipes (it's drilled through the bottom) were never glued in. That seems to make sense for the drain, but the returns never were glued in either. Am I correct in assuming that the previous owner must have been using a relatively low flow through there, and that if the flow is increased that return pipe has the potential to rocket into the light fixtures above - along with an awful lot of salty water?

~Bruce

 

[mfinn]

I've a question that fits here . . .

The tank I'm working on is pre-owned, and the standpipes (it's drilled through the bottom) were never glued in. That seems to make sense for the drain, but the returns never were glued in either. Am I correct in assuming that the previous owner must have been using a relatively low flow through there, and that if the flow is increased that return pipe has the potential to rocket into the light fixtures above - along with an awful lot of salty water?

~Bruce

Was the return bulkhead a slip fit, or threaded?
Personally I use threaded bulkheads in most every case.

 

[Maritimer]

Both were (and the replacements are) slip-fit. (Threaded would have made sense...) The return bulkheads were slip x barb, and as thick as Schedule 80. 3/4" bulkheads that fit into 1.75" holes in the glass.

~Bruce

 

[Rjramos]

Just noticed this, thought it deserved highlighting, since I'd wager that just about everyone who's planning to plumb an aquarium is planning to use a bulkhead. (I know I am, and didn't realize I might need a different cement for them!)

~Bruce

I've used the regular PVC cement with ABS black bulkheads. Never realizing there is a different glue for ABS. I have noticed when welding these joints that you really gotta hold in place for a bit longer to prevent slipping out. It takes a bit longer to weld, but I have never had leaks.

 

[Daniel Strickland]

My drains and returns are all slip fit and not glued... I have yet to glue them because I have been adjusting and trying different heights to try and reduce noise..

I am running approximately 700 gph through 2 3/4 returns and have yet to have a problem.

That being said once I am happy I will drain back my overflow box and glue them in properly.

 

[Rjramos]

Both were (and the replacements are) slip-fit. (Threaded would have made sense...) The return bulkheads were slip x barb, and as thick as Schedule 80. 3/4" bulkheads that fit into 1.75" holes in the glass.

~Bruce

You could use a slip bulkhead for both drain and return. I always glue the risers into the bulkheads cause it's not something I would have to take apart in the future. Furthermore, you don't want it popping off with pressure like you mentioned or even a leak at the pipe/bulkhead connection. In a prolonged power outage a small leak that low would drain your entire overflow box into the sump below.

 

[Be102]

Not op, but also have a question.. if I was to strictly use unions and whatnot; do I still need to glue any pipes? Any way around gluing?

 

[Hyde2406]

My drains and returns are all slip fit and not glued... I have yet to glue them because I have been adjusting and trying different heights to try and reduce noise..

I am running approximately 700 gph through 2 3/4 returns and have yet to have a problem.

That being said once I am happy I will drain back my overflow box and glue them in properly.

I've been reefing since 2009, plumbed 3 reef tanks with sumps never used any glue any leaks and I would wrap plumbing tape a few times and re insert the pipe and then no leak. It makes it so if I change sumps or anything I can adjust and not have to re do everything... Lazy reefer
I do insert the slip fitting really tight and use threaded for 90° turns when I can. Maybe I'm just lucky.
Definitely expect 4-5 trips to the store

 

[Maritimer]

You'd still have to glue the pipes to the unions...

Unions allow easy disassembly into sections down the road, but still require glue within those sections, AFAIK.

~Bruce

 

[Be102]

You'd still have to glue the pipes to the unions...

Unions allow easy disassembly into sections down the road, but still require glue within those sections, AFAIK.

~Bruce

I guess I wasn't under the impression of gluing unions. Whoops, thanks

 

[Daniel Strickland]

You can buy threaded unions.. use NPT to barb fittings and hose.. use threaded PVC 90's and nipples.. if you have a well stocked hardware store then your options are unlimited... with lots of money you could probably even completely plumb up a system with PEX and plastic Shark Bite style fittings...

 

[Gustavo Martinez]

Great info here, and thanks for the tips....

I have a question about bulkheads with threaded fittings. What are you guys using to attach, glue, or teflon them together? Also, isnt it wise to shamfer the edges of the pvc before glueing?

Thanks in advance...