Got a Dinos problem, could this be the answer.

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@Boosterman

I remember you tried carbon dosing from Beuchat’s article for your Dinos. If I remember correctly, it was effective.


What happened?
 
@Boosterman

I remember you tried carbon dosing from Beuchat’s article for your Dinos. If I remember correctly, it was effective.


What happened?
Dosing carbon source daily for a month was too much of a chore and the Dinos came back after I stopped carbon dosing. Trying to find a long term solution to defeat this pest.
 
Dosing carbon source daily for a month was too much of a chore and the Dinos came back after I stopped carbon dosing. Trying to find a long term solution to defeat this pest.
It fuels dino. Not that it came back but it was driving down nutrients as a food source and once the carbon dosing was set in belief that dosing would bring up the nutrients, ir was feeding dino and more pronounced with lights on. Nutrient instability is the reason dinos begin and reefers reset the tank by adding nitrate and phos when in essence dinos are consuming them and then when tested and zero readings are present, its because the available nitrate and Phos have been consumed already
 
Dosing carbon source daily for a month was too much of a chore and the Dinos came back after I stopped carbon dosing. Trying to find a long term solution to defeat this pest.
Seems like your on the right track and will eliminate the dinos. Just a little concerned for some of your corals reacting to the strength of peroxide your using. One sould never forget Hydrogen peroxide is a breach after all.
 
HI @atoll

Hope you don't mind me asking here; I am on the facebook group but I have posted this twice and each time it appears to post and then disappears, not sure if it's something to do with my facebook settings.

Anyway, setting up a new reef tank; 500L DT, 650L total volume, dry rock, cycled, low light settings and just starting to show the beginning of the uglies, possibly dinos. No corals and 3 small fish.

With an Oxydator A what concentration of H2O2 and number of catalysts would you advise, and how would you change this over time as the tank matures and stocking levels increase. I have read the manual and files on the group page but just looking for your opinion.

Thanks for your time and help!
 
If that's tge case isn't it also true of a doser. Do organics change so much if you have the same number of animals, feed the same amount and frequency.

Regardless of this conversation I highly suggest anyone trying to treat velvet invest in cheap test strips for this reason. It’s why I bought some so I could make sure when the organic levels changed I didn’t OD the tank because you’re right a doser might need adjusting too. Didn’t intend to suggest it didn’t, rather highlight how easy it is to change.

the organics can and will certainly change if the tank is new to peroxide dosing in any shape as the existing accumulated organics are destroyed or exported
 
HI @atoll

Hope you don't mind me asking here; I am on the facebook group but I have posted this twice and each time it appears to post and then disappears, not sure if it's something to do with my facebook settings.

Anyway, setting up a new reef tank; 500L DT, 650L total volume, dry rock, cycled, low light settings and just starting to show the beginning of the uglies, possibly dinos. No corals and 3 small fish.

With an Oxydator A what concentration of H2O2 and number of catalysts would you advise, and how would you change this over time as the tank matures and stocking levels increase. I have read the manual and files on the group page but just looking for your opinion.

Thanks for your time and help!
It very much a suck it and see with a newish set upp but I would try 9% and 2 catalysts as a base start and see how it goes.
 
@Lasse is that your interpretation now, that a tiny amount of H2O2 comes out along with O2 while using the oxydator?
Yes - and if you want more non catalyst H2O2 out in the aquarium - use higher concentration or/and more catalyst. It is this non catalyst H2O2 (that comes out in the aquarium) that will form oxygen radicals that can wipe out pathogens and some unwanted other organisms. To have pure H2O2 in the water column will also fast reduce DOC in the water column, hence not feed or/and favor cyano:s and dino:s

I have an example there 15 L of 36% H2O2 in 445 000 L of water reduced BOD7 from around 27 ppm O2 to more or less nothing during a couple of days

Sincerely Lasse
 
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I am extremely happy with the result after just 24 hours. Photos were taken at the same time as yesterday for comparison. I can definitely see the retraction of the Dinos. Some corals are not happy as I noticed that my Zoas are closed up, Gonioporas are not fully extended, Bowerbanki is not as puffy. Hopefully things will settle down.

Day 1
PXL_20230111_213320925.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193214953.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230111_213333311.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193226714.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230114_192425882.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_195342422.jpg

Day 1
PXL_20230114_192452550.jpg

Day 2
PXL_20230115_193209049.jpg


Zoa closed up
PXL_20230115_193300845.jpg
Hey, I just came across this thread as I was doing some research. I added the model D to my tank yesterday using a 6% solution. I have also noticed that my zoas are a bit closed as is my bowerbanki. Did your corals come around? Did you have to adjust your solution concentration? Are you still using the Oxydator, and if so, how's it working?
Thank you in advance!
 

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