Got my ATI ICP test in

Those are some pretty stellar water parameters. If pests are eliminated off the list then maybe start look at things not related to water. Looks like you already looked at lighting and flow. You did say you turned down the flow because it was traumatically affecting the corals. Perhaps look at those two things again.

Could there be stray current in the tank?

Did you get all of your frags from the same source?

Also which zoas do you have? How fast are they growing?

Do you have a ton of large soft corals? Might be an issue of some kind of chemical warfare.

Doubtful of stray current, cuts on my hands would probably have clued me in :-)

I have gotten all of my frags from my LFS.

I’ve got an assortment of small zoa and play frags. Rastas and the like. I’ve also got a Superman rhidactus mushroom that just split and an Aussie hammer in the back. No leathers. None of the zoas and palys are growing at any rate that I can detect. They all open up, but don’t notice any new ones.
 
Are the electronics of the tank hooked up to a GFCI outlet?
 
Are you target feeding your corals weekly? Lol I am running out of ideas. Alk burn is a possibility with ULNS.
 
Are you target feeding your corals weekly? Lol I am running out of ideas. Alk burn is a possibility with ULNS.

I broadcast feed twice a week to keep my phosphate up.
You can have alk burn without being ULNS. :)

This is where I’m suspecting my problem is. There seems to be too much speculation about what level dkh goes with what level nitrates/phosphate. Anything over NSW is suspect. As an engineer, I’m torn when I can’t find some ratio between the two. My dkh is around 8.5dkh. NSW is like, 7, right? My next plan is to slowly lower dkh via water changes, until I’m around 7dkh.
 
Many here have tried to help me figure out what the heck is wrong with my tank and why acroporas just don’t grow, just a slow death. I think we’ve all come to an agreement that everything is spot on and that something is in my water.

Got my results back from ATI ICP test and am pretty disappointed. They didnt test for things like tin, chrome, copper, iron. They said my iodine was low and I should dose some. What a waste of money.

http://lab.atiaquaristik.com/publicAnalysis/21675
I viewed the report from the lab.. Get your alkalinity up to 11, it will allow the corals for more usage of calcium ,magnesium and trace elements
 
I viewed the report from the lab.. Get your alkalinity up to 11, it will allow the corals for more usage of calcium ,magnesium and trace elements
No I would not do that. Acros do not like high alk in most cases. Especially ones with lower nutrients.
 
No I would not do that. Acros do not like high alk in most cases. Especially ones with lower nutrients.

Haha, I was about to say! I’m literally mixing my salt and adjusting down alkalinity to 8dkh as we type.

Btw-My pc rainbow is now about to go. I can see it has the dried up look that ALL of my acros get right before they go. I literally have changed nothing at all, except raise the lights higher to decrease intensity.

This is dying, right on schedule. No Acro makes it more than 2 months.

I feel like getting some plastic bottle scotch now. :-(

I wonder how ATI compares to Triton? Maybe there is something that ATI doesn’t test for?
 
Haha, I was about to say! I’m literally mixing my salt and adjusting down alkalinity to 8dkh as we type.

Btw-My pc rainbow is now about to go. I can see it has the dried up look that ALL of my acros get right before they go. I literally have changed nothing at all, except raise the lights higher to decrease intensity.

This is dying, right on schedule. No Acro makes it more than 2 months.

I feel like getting some plastic bottle scotch now. :-(

I wonder how ATI compares to Triton? Maybe there is something that ATI doesn’t test for?
ATI and triton test for the same.

It is possible your tank is carrying some kind of disease that kills your acros. I once had an entire specific species of acro die on me. Everything else was fine. But not that one species.
 
ATI and triton test for the same.

It is possible your tank is carrying some kind of disease that kills your acros. I once had an entire specific species of acro die on me. Everything else was fine. But not that one species.

:-(

Reef aids? How does one combat or treat? UV sterilization? Peroxide?
 
Kind of off topic - OP what salt mix are you using?
 
Brightwells neomarine.

nGZqBpB.png
 
Any chance this could be related to the food that I’m feeding? I’m feeding selcon soaked mysis shrimp, daily, that I get at petsmart. As for the filter feeding food, it’s some stuff I got years back from reefcleaners.org.
 
If lowering alk doesn't work then you might want to avoid acros for a while. If you do have some kind of acro bacteria/virus, then by eliminating a host (acros) you may end up killing off the pathogen. Those having higher nutrients easily take alk into the double digits. Having low nutrients combined with higher alk seems to have issues for some. I shoot for 9 dKh and things are doing well, but I also don't run ULNS.
 
If I truly have some sort of acropora disease, I must be the most unlucky sob here. So far, the only Acro seemingly unaffected is a Bali shortcake that I have at the bottom. It has lightened up quite a bit, isn’t growing, but shows a tiny bit of PE. It has also taken on a very pretty light pink color. I also have a maxima clam baby on the bottom that keeps turning away from the light. I don’t understand why he’s turning away from it, he can’t be getting that much all the way down there.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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