Green clown goby worts?

[RMS18]

My clown goby is about 3-4 weeks old, at first he never came out, never saw him eat. This past week he finally eats during the feeding frenzy and hangs out during the day now. Couple of days ago I noticed his who body looks like he has worts. It's not ick as its not white, they look to be under the skin... I'm thinking malnutrition from the first couple of weeks and stress? What do you guys think?

 

[Oscaror]

Looks to me like ich :/

 

[Humblefish]

Looks to me like ich :/

I agree. "Under the skin" usually = ich. However, additional pics would be useful to be sure. That pic is kinda dark.

 

[RMS18]

I agree. "Under the skin" usually = ich. However, additional pics would be useful to be sure. That pic is kinda dark.

Here's another shot, the bumps are not white. It doesn't look like salt was sprinkled.

 

[Humblefish]

Any way you can get me a pic that's not so blue? That sure looks like ich to me.

 

[RMS18]

Any way you can get me a pic that's not so blue? That sure looks like ich to me.

Yea I think your right, the spots didn't look white with my blue lights on, once I shut them off and turned on the white lights now the dots are white. I have never delt with any diease before. I do not have a qt set up. What are the risks to my other fish?

 

[Humblefish]

Yea I think your right, the spots didn't look white with my blue lights on, once I shut them off and turned on the white lights now the dots are white. I have never delt with any diease before. I do not have a qt set up. What are the risks to my other fish?

Since the goby has ich, now the whole tank has ich. Meaning soon the parasite will enter the "free swimming" or theront stage of it's life cycle and that stage will seek out & infect other fish.

This explains in more detail: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/understanding-ich.188770/

This tells you what to do about it: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-treat-ich.191226/

This might prove useful if you choose not to QT/treat: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

The good news is it doesn't appear to be velvet; the white dots are too large. If this were velvet, you wouldn't have the option of just managing the problem. You would be looking at QT/treat or face a complete wipe out within a week. Just something to think about down the road. Meaning, I think you just dodged a bullet in a sense but you may not be so "lucky" next time.

How to Quarantine: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

 

[RMS18]

Since the goby has ich, now the whole tank has ich. Meaning soon the parasite will enter the "free swimming" or theront stage of it's life cycle and that stage will seek out & infect other fish.

This explains in more detail: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/understanding-ich.188770/

This tells you what to do about it: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-treat-ich.191226/

This might prove useful if you choose not to QT/treat: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

The good news is it doesn't appear to be velvet; the white dots are too large. If this were velvet, you wouldn't have the option of just managing the problem. You would be looking at QT/treat or face a complete wipe out within a week. Just something to think about down the road. Meaning, I think you just dodged a bullet in a sense but you may not be so "lucky" next time.

How to Quarantine: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

Seems like I really don't have a choice but to qt. For the long run it seems to be smarter. Being a newbie and tank being about 5 months old I am not happy about this experience. My dt tank has lps, softies, shrooms everything but sps. Am I ok to leave them and the clean up crew in the dt tank and just take the fish out?

As far as the dt tank I'm just doing regular water changes and treating it as a reef only tank with inverts? And assuming the ick will die off in 72 days?

I have 2 clowns, 2 banggai and the clown goby, what's your opinion on a 15 gallon qt for them for the 72 days?

Thanks for all your help.

 

[Humblefish]

Seems like I really don't have a choice but to qt. For the long run it seems to be smarter. Being a newbie and tank being about 5 months old I am not happy about this experience. My dt tank has lps, softies, shrooms everything but sps. Am I ok to leave them and the clean up crew in the dt tank and just take the fish out?

As far as the dt tank I'm just doing regular water changes and treating it as a reef only tank with inverts? And assuming the ick will die off in 72 days?

I have 2 clowns, 2 banggai and the clown goby, what's your opinion on a 15 gallon qt for them for the 72 days?

Thanks for all your help.

You always have a choice (even bad choices are still choices ); but FWIW I think you are making the right choice by treating/going fallow.

Corals/inverts can remain in the DT while going fallow. Only all fish need to be removed. Continue to maintain your reef tank as you normally would. Feed your corals/inverts occasionally and throw in a pinch of flake every 2-3 days to maintain bacteria levels.

The 15 gal QT should work, but you are going to need to either do WCs or use a small HOB with seeded bio-media to control the ammonia. What kind of HOB filters do you have on hand?

 

[RMS18]

You always have a choice (even bad choices are still choices ); but FWIW I think you are making the right choice by treating/going fallow.

Corals/inverts can remain in the DT while going fallow. Only all fish need to be removed. Continue to maintain your reef tank as you normally would. Feed your corals/inverts occasionally and throw in a pinch of flake every 2-3 days to maintain bacteria levels.

The 15 gal QT should work, but you are going to need to either do WCs or use a small HOB with seeded bio-media to control the ammonia. What kind of HOB filters do you have on hand?

I don't have anything at the moment, petsmart has has a line of small filters from 10gallon-30 gallon there branded as National Geographic , 2 stage filter with third for carbon which I know not to use. I'll get a heater stick, thermometer, Ammonia alert, and maybe a small LED light for the tank and some Pvc from homdepo. I also plan on doing weekly water changes.

How do I maintain the bio media? Won't the copper kill it?

 

[miyags]

With water changes.How are you filtering your DT, can use any thing from there. Pick up alot'a salt. Petco might have there 1$ a gallon tank sale till the end of Aug?.

 

[Humblefish]

I copy & pasted this from my "How to QT" article:

The use of “seeded” bio-media can help to break down ammonia. I personally use an Aquaclear HOB power filter, utilizing the “foam insert” i.e. sponge it comes with. I “seed” the sponge (or multiples) in a high flow area of my DT’s sump (or you can put it behind your rocks) for at least one month prior to QT. This one month allows time for enough beneficial bacteria to transfer onto the sponge, so that it may be used as biological filtration once placed back in the power filter and used in QT. An alternative (albeit expensive) way to instantly seed your sponge is to pour some Bio-Spira, Seachem Stability or Dr Tim's Nitrifying Bacteria over it just prior to use. Below is a pic of the Aquaclear HOB power filter and correlating “foam” sponge (you can buy additional sponges cheaply):

 

[RMS18]

I copy & pasted this from my "How to QT" article:

The use of “seeded” bio-media can help to break down ammonia. I personally use an Aquaclear HOB power filter, utilizing the “foam insert” i.e. sponge it comes with. I “seed” the sponge (or multiples) in a high flow area of my DT’s sump (or you can put it behind your rocks) for at least one month prior to QT. This one month allows time for enough beneficial bacteria to transfer onto the sponge, so that it may be used as biological filtration once placed back in the power filter and used in QT. An alternative (albeit expensive) way to instantly seed your sponge is to pour some Bio-Spira, Seachem Stability or Dr Tim's Nitrifying Bacteria over it just prior to use. Below is a pic of the Aquaclear HOB power filter and correlating “foam” sponge (you can buy additional sponges cheaply):

Got it, thought seeding meant something else. Yes I can take filter media out of my current system on my dt. Well I want to thank you all for your help, will get this qt set up hopefully tomorrow and in about 3 months all should be over with. Thanks again.

 

[Humblefish]

Good luck to you. Just let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

[RMS18]

Good luck to you. Just let me know if you have anymore questions.

Just an update.. unfortunately the green goby didn't make it. Right before the qt transfer he broke out with ich again and this time it was worse. After battling the first breakout he just wasent strong enough to hang on untill the qt was ready. Unfortunately one of my designer clowns just came down with ich. I noticed 3 spots today, all 4 fish should be in the qt tank by tomorrow or Wednesday the lasted with copper. First loss to a diease and it sucks. I was treating with Dr. Medicated food in the meantime while in dt and he was eating and became more active then bam next day spots all over him and he stopped eating, lost color, started to turn brown. [emoji17]

 

[Humblefish]

Sorry to hear of your loss. Yes, losing fish to disease does suck. But you are figuring out what to do about it and moving forward, QT'ing all future fish purchases will greatly diminish the chance of this ever happening again in your DT. I say "greatly diminish the chance" because I do not believe in 100%. Not in anything.

 

[RMS18]

Sorry to hear of your loss. Yes, losing fish to disease does suck. But you are figuring out what to do about it and moving forward, QT'ing all future fish purchases will greatly diminish the chance of this ever happening again in your DT. I say "greatly diminish the chance" because I do not believe in 100%. Not in anything.

Hey Humblefish sorry one more question came to mind as I read and re-read your posts. You stated that you can test the water for ammonia as long as it's not medicated? So since I'll be using a copper medication will my ammonia tests be inaccurate? I do have a ammonia alert badge also in there but was also planning on testing the water once - twice a day.

 

[Humblefish]

Hey Humblefish sorry one more question came to mind as I read and re-read your posts. You stated that you can test the water for ammonia as long as it's not medicated? So since I'll be using a copper medication will my ammonia tests be inaccurate? I do have a ammonia alert badge also in there but was also planning on testing the water once - twice a day.

Most ammonia test kits will not work in the presence of copper. You will get nothing but false positives. Best bet is to watch the ammonia alert badge, as that will still measure ammonia even if copper (or any other med) is present.

 

[RMS18]

Most ammonia test kits will not work in the presence of copper. You will get nothing but false positives. Best bet is to watch the ammonia alert badge, as that will still measure ammonia even if copper (or any other med) is present.

QT is up and running... everyone is still getting used to the tank. The 2 cardnialfish are still hiding and haven't explored much. The 2 clowns are exploring more. When I was transfering the fish their fins were down and looked scared in the qt tank. Then once they saw eachother in the new tank everyone swam over to eachother stayed close and fins were back up. I am using Won Marine blue copper, directions list a 21 day use period.

 

[Humblefish]

I am using Won Marine blue copper, directions list a 21 day use period.

Is that this stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Power-Endich-ACP0016B-Treatment/dp/B00BUFXFP6