Guide to the Triton Method

[HolisticBear]

Oh, I'm so sorry that I took a little part of you precious time Michael. Very sorry ... and such a long message you typed. Very informative also, thanks.
I think it's totally normal asking same questions before you want to spend money on the product, more Tim answer more they'll sell.

"Google it" definitely not the best customer support answer right? But again .... so sorry to bother you with my question.

I'm not part of customer support. I simply replied to your question after seeing it a dozen times this week on the forum, and the previous week. I apologize for coming across rude, I was simply shocked that my news feed is full of the same question. I do not represent Triton so don't take my rudeness as representing them.

 

[Berlibee]

Sure I see you're not from the customer support. It's just you typed so much text but it wasn't a "replied to my question" if you're taking your time to type anyway you could just link me to the right thread. it's good ... don't worry about.

 

[Mortie31]

The difference is the elements required to "turbo charge" the algae refugium as used in the Triton Method are reduced for those not able to have a large refugium. Using the Triton Method version could result in elements accumulating as they are not being taken up quick enough or worse be available for pest algae.

Thanks for this answer...when you say reduced, by how much? Are there enough of these algae boosters left in to benefit a couple of algae reactors? I'm curious as obviously the "other methods" are varied from carbon, zeostones to reactors or small fuges, some with no uptake whatsoever of these elements, so if your running a system with no algae surely these elements will accumulate... Or the flip side is there can't be enough to benefit algae growth...

 

[Berlibee]

It's very interesting I'm just wondering how much it will cost at the end. because if it's 1:1 to the 2 parts dosing and you're dosing around 15ml a day it's $300 a year. + around $300 a year for water tests + additional $ on products to "fix problematic parameters. So It's will be around $700+ a year for a medium size tank hmmm .... even Zeovit wasn't so expensive for me and I was using full line of the products. Or I'm counting wrong ....

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

It's very interesting I'm just wondering how much it will cost at the end. because if it's 1:1 to the 2 parts dosing and you're dosing around 15ml a day it's $300 a year. + around $300 a year for water tests + additional $ on products to "fix problematic parameters. So It's will be around $700+ a year for a medium size tank hmmm .... even Zeovit wasn't so expensive for me and I was using full line of the products. Or I'm counting wrong ....

It is not 1:1 with 2 part.

It is 19500 dKH per litre if that helps with your calculations.

If you can tell me your daily Alk drop (amount Alk would drop in 24hrs with no dosing) and volume I can give you a more accurate potential dose.

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

Thanks for this answer...when you say reduced, by how much? Are there enough of these algae boosters left in to benefit a couple of algae reactors? I'm curious as obviously the "other methods" are varied from carbon, zeostones to reactors or small fuges, some with no uptake whatsoever of these elements, so if your running a system with no algae surely these elements will accumulate... Or the flip side is there can't be enough to benefit algae growth...

Without going into actual concentrations I will say that they are designed not to accumulate with the afore mentioned methods..

 

[Berlibee]

It is not 1:1 with 2 part.

It is 19500 dKH per litre if that helps with your calculations.

If you can tell me your daily Alk drop (amount Alk would drop in 24hrs with no dosing) and volume I can give you a more accurate potential dose.

Thank you, I've read it wrong from the description "Core7 Base Elements uses a 1:1 ratio - for every 1mL of Part 1 you use" I though it's talking about when your switching from your two parts dosing to Triton and it's will be 1:1 of what you've been doing before.
Ok so if my Alk. usage is 0.6 a day, I'm using 11.7ml of each bottle like I understand.

Can I ask you please, really sorry if it was asked before already as well. But how many tests a year is the minimum recommendation ?

 

[Jorge Linares]

I'm interested in this method and have a question. Does an algae rector count as the core7 or other method? I'm starting a 60gal cube with a 15-20 gal sump and will be running a 4100ml algae reactor.
Thanks

 

[Mortie31]

Without going into actual concentrations I will say that they are designed not to accumulate with the afore mentioned methods..

Thx Tim, but in the "other methods" core 7 is there enough of the algae boosters To help with algae growth in a reactor?

 

[Fin]

I have been planning and accumulating equipment for my new 125 for some time now. Already have a Turbo L2 Algae Turf Scrubber new in the box and was wondering if that would work with the system. I see here that I would probably need to go with the Core7 reagents. Thanks for having a presence here on R2R for those of us with questions. Following along...

 

[Scott.h]

It's very interesting I'm just wondering how much it will cost at the end. because if it's 1:1 to the 2 parts dosing and you're dosing around 15ml a day it's $300 a year. + around $300 a year for water tests + additional $ on products to "fix problematic parameters. So It's will be around $700+ a year for a medium size tank hmmm .... even Zeovit wasn't so expensive for me and I was using full line of the products. Or I'm counting wrong ....

I wouldn't say cost is a good way to solely look at it, although for me I'll admit, it was a concern up front. I sucked it up and bought each trace bottle my tank needed according to "spec". The little trace bottles last a long time. Up front my cost: a triton test, the core 7, and 8 or so bottles of trace elements. Probably 300 bucks. Up front considerably more in a month, but since then I havent done squat. Not one water change, no salt, no hundred dollar city water bill. I probably should do another test, as it's been a few months since my last one, but I suspect things are good. My polyp extention is better then I've ever seen, even though some are said not to matter. I can see a difference. If they recommend more trace elements on my next test I'll buy them also. Worst case there are like 14 bottles total. 300 or so bucks. But with no water changes most of those trace elements stay put. I'm happy. Im considering upgrading my second home tank filtration and converting that over as well.

As far as which product to start with, I feel if you have a fuge, you are getting more value for the dollar using the full method. Unless your coral demand is high and your fuge is small it shouldn't be a big deal. ( referring to the build up). - Small coral demand, small dosing, small amount of macro balances pretty well in my experience.

Hope that can aid some assistance in real world application.

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

Thank you, I've read it wrong from the description "Core7 Base Elements uses a 1:1 ratio - for every 1mL of Part 1 you use" I though it's talking about when your switching from your two parts dosing to Triton and it's will be 1:1 of what you've been doing before.
Ok so if my Alk. usage is 0.6 a day, I'm using 11.7ml of each bottle like I understand.

Can I ask you please, really sorry if it was asked before already as well. But how many tests a year is the minimum recommendation ?

So your system consumes 0.6 per day? How many Gallons or Litres is the system?

As far as testing regularity goes it is really up to you, I would say a good guide would be every 3 months or so, if you suspect something might not be right then test anyway, we have customers who test once a year all the way to customers who test every week!

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

I'm interested in this method and have a question. Does an algae rector count as the core7 or other method? I'm starting a 60gal cube with a 15-20 gal sump and will be running a 4100ml algae reactor.
Thanks

I would use the other methods with an algae rector.

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

Thx Tim, but in the "other methods" core 7 is there enough of the algae boosters To help with algae growth in a reactor?

Yes it will work fine.

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

I have been planning and accumulating equipment for my new 125 for some time now. Already have a Turbo L2 Algae Turf Scrubber new in the box and was wondering if that would work with the system. I see here that I would probably need to go with the Core7 reagents. Thanks for having a presence here on R2R for those of us with questions. Following along...

You're welcome, again I would go with the Core7 Reef Supplements for "Other Methods".

 

[Jorge Linares]

Thank you. Is the other method also "no water changes "?

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

Thank you. Is the other method also "no water changes "?

Thats is not for us to say as it is no longer our method so not under our control if that makes sense.

What I would say is regular ICP testing will tell you if your chosen method is working and if/when you do need to do water changes..

 

[Xclusive Reef]

Tim... Sorry If this has already been answered 100 times but I am pretty new to all this and wanted to know for a beginner after tank has been cycled, what you recommend to get started? when do you send in the water to get tested as water parameters will change as you add fish etc. As far as Refugium does it matter where it goes? I am asking in case Triton does not work out I would not want to rebuild my sump all over again. thanks..

 

[Scott.h]

Tim... Sorry If this has already been answered 100 times but I am pretty new to all this and wanted to know for a beginner after tank has been cycled, what you recommend to get started? when do you send in the water to get tested as water parameters will change as you add fish etc. As far as Refugium does it matter where it goes? I am asking in case Triton does not work out I would not want to rebuild my sump all over again. thanks..

I can answer this until tim chimes in.

Are you using dry rock or live rock? This would matter as dry rock can potentially leach things until it's cured. If that's the case I'd do a test after the tank is cycled. if you used cured live rock and the tank is cycled, you could do a test now.

No matter what salt you use you'll find things need to be adjusted. If you have things living in the tank you'd use the recommended guidelines for dosing each element. If not you could manipulate a little faster, but really that's not a big deal if you started with a good salt. Most of my dosings were originally done over 2-3 days with fish and coral.

The reason the fuge is the first chamber - the design of the full method is no filter socks. That allows the stuff to go in the first chamber for the macro to use up. I moved my fuge chamber from the second chamber to the first (where the skimmer was), as that was my biggest chamber anyway. If I wasn't using the full method I wouldn't change it back, as it really wouldn't matter to me anyway.

And with starting the tank use the non method core. You can convert over after the system (fuge) is mature. This would help with unwanted algae in the display.

Hope that helps until tim has a chance to chime in.

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

I can answer this until tim chimes in.

Are you using dry rock or live rock? This would matter as dry rock can potentially leach things until it's cured. If that's the case I'd do a test after the tank is cycled. if you used cured live rock and the tank is cycled, you could do a test now.

No matter what salt you use you'll find things need to be adjusted. If you have things living in the tank you'd use the recommended guidelines for dosing each element. If not you could manipulate a little faster, but really that's not a big deal if you started with a good salt. Most of my dosings were originally done over 2-3 days with fish and coral.

The reason the fuge is the first chamber - the design of the full method is no filter socks. That allows the stuff to go in the first chamber for the macro to use up. I moved my fuge chamber from the second chamber to the first (where the skimmer was), as that was my biggest chamber anyway. If I wasn't using the full method I wouldn't change it back, as it really wouldn't matter to me anyway.

And with starting the tank use the non method core. You can convert over after the system (fuge) is mature. This would help with unwanted algae in the display.

Hope that helps until tim has a chance to chime in.

Pretty much covered it there Scott I think!