Guide to the Triton Method

[Mark Gray]

I can answer this until tim chimes in.

Are you using dry rock or live rock? This would matter as dry rock can potentially leach things until it's cured. If that's the case I'd do a test after the tank is cycled. if you used cured live rock and the tank is cycled, you could do a test now.

No matter what salt you use you'll find things need to be adjusted. If you have things living in the tank you'd use the recommended guidelines for dosing each element. If not you could manipulate a little faster, but really that's not a big deal if you started with a good salt. Most of my dosings were originally done over 2-3 days with fish and coral.

The reason the fuge is the first chamber - the design of the full method is no filter socks. That allows the stuff to go in the first chamber for the macro to use up. I moved my fuge chamber from the second chamber to the first (where the skimmer was), as that was my biggest chamber anyway. If I wasn't using the full method I wouldn't change it back, as it really wouldn't matter to me anyway.

And with starting the tank use the non method core. You can convert over after the system (fuge) is mature. This would help with unwanted algae in the display.

Hope that helps until tim has a chance to chime in.

Interesting Thanks for the info, I think I will give it a try. I think it may end up after I buy everything saving me some money, My water bill is like 150 mto 175 a month unles I do not do water changes then its 55 lol

 

[Xclusive Reef]

I can answer this until tim chimes in.

Are you using dry rock or live rock? This would matter as dry rock can potentially leach things until it's cured. If that's the case I'd do a test after the tank is cycled. if you used cured live rock and the tank is cycled, you could do a test now.

No matter what salt you use you'll find things need to be adjusted. If you have things living in the tank you'd use the recommended guidelines for dosing each element. If not you could manipulate a little faster, but really that's not a big deal if you started with a good salt. Most of my dosings were originally done over 2-3 days with fish and coral.

The reason the fuge is the first chamber - the design of the full method is no filter socks. That allows the stuff to go in the first chamber for the macro to use up. I moved my fuge chamber from the second chamber to the first (where the skimmer was), as that was my biggest chamber anyway. If I wasn't using the full method I wouldn't change it back, as it really wouldn't matter to me anyway.

And with starting the tank use the non method core. You can convert over after the system (fuge) is mature. This would help with unwanted algae in the display.

Hope that helps until tim has a chance to chime in.

Thanks Scott.. Can you post a pic of your sump? I want to see how the first chamber looks like? Does it matter if I place some small pieces of rock in the sump?

 

[zoanutty]

I'm confused! What is this "non method" or "other method" you guys speak of? I'm trying to start using the Triton method and these terms are whack

 

[Scott.h]

Thanks Scott.. Can you post a pic of your sump? I want to see how the first chamber looks like? Does it matter if I place some small pieces of rock in the sump?

I also have some rock in the sump. That pic was right after I switched sump chambers. I may eliminate socks soon which will give me more room. I started this particular system with dry rock in the display. I'm still getting a bit of debris from that. After the stuff settles I'll probably remove those too. This sump, made from a 70 gal is for my 90 sps dominant display

 

[Xclusive Reef]

I also have some rock in the sump. That pic was right after I switched sump chambers. I may eliminate socks soon which will give me more room. I started this particular system with dry rock in the display. I'm still getting a bit of debris from that. After the stuff settles I'll probably remove those too. This sump, made from a 70 gal is for my 90 sps dominant display

What give light you using? Is it led?

 

[Xclusive Reef]

I'm confused! What is this "non method" or "other method" you guys speak of? I'm trying to start using the Triton method and these terms are whack

From what I understand the other method in a nutshell are for people who don't have space for a fuge. Also the elements are less than the full triton 7 dosing.

 

[Scott.h]

What give light you using? Is it led?

yes, with all plant growth pods installed. Right now I'm keeping my algae small as I'm having to daily dose no3 and po4. 3a and b are combined so I can use the 4th dos head for no3. Depending on how the system plays out I may eventually get the 300 dollar Kessel, but for now everything is balanced great.

From what I understand the other method in a nutshell are for people who don't have space for a fuge. Also the elements are less than the full triton 7 dosing.

yes, the full method core has extra elements for macro. The standard would be for people with fuge less sumps.

 

[bif24701]

yes, with all plant growth pods installed. Right now I'm keeping my algae small as I'm having to daily dose no3 and po4. 3a and b are combined so I can use the 4th dos head for no3. Depending on how the system plays out I may eventually get the 300 dollar Kessel, but for now everything is balanced great.

yes, the full method core has extra elements for macro. The standard would be for people with fuge less sumps.

This could be just what I need to take full advantage of my cheato fuge. Right now my cheato isn't doing well.

 

[Scott.h]

This could be just what I need to take full advantage of my cheato fuge. Right now my cheato isn't doing well.

It would definitely benefit. I haven't experienced problems with macro in any of my tanks prior. Before I started daily dosing the n and p, it wasn't dying, it would just be stunted. It's definitely growing now, as well as the hairy stuff on my rocks in there with the macro. I tend to believe the reason for my macro surviving prior may be the increased iron from my salt choice too.

 

[GOSKN5]

I see the recommended refugium size is 10-20%.. let's say I can get about 6% water volume... would you still use the "triton" method or the "other methods" approach?

 

[Tim@Triton Verified Sponsor]

I see the recommended refugium size is 10-20%.. let's say I can get about 6% water volume... would you still use the "triton" method or the "other methods" approach?

If you do not think you can achieve the recommended specs then I would go for the Core7 Reef Supplements for Other Methods.

 

[Oberst Oswald]

Depending on how the system plays out I may eventually get the 300 dollar Kessel, but for now everything is balanced great

I have the Kessel 380 light and (I think) because of it I'm having success with SPS on 67 gallons total water with a mixed planted 'frug of only 4 1/2 gallons using the full Triton Method. The light is not without issues though on such a small 'frug with heat from the light beam itself (the light unit does not get very hot) because of the height under the tank to the water surface. I float a small pirex (sp?) bowl to allow light to the bottom center and defuse the light beam a little. The surface is covered all around the bowl with some kind of floating plant about the size of a large marble. This light is "really something" and you would be amazed, if bought, on your plant growth. Word of warning though you might get more than you bargain for with different plants taking over your 'frug.

 

[Scott.h]

I have the Kessel 380 light and (I think) because of it I'm having success with SPS on 67 gallons total water with a mixed planted 'frug of only 4 1/2 gallons using the full Triton Method. The light is not without issues though on such a small 'frug with heat from the light beam itself (the light unit does not get very hot) because of the height under the tank to the water surface. I float a small pirex (sp?) bowl to allow light to the bottom center and defuse the light beam a little. The surface is covered all around the bowl with some kind of floating plant about the size of a large marble. This light is "really something" and you would be amazed, if bought, on your plant growth. Word of warning though you might get more than you bargain for with different plants taking over your 'frug.

I don't doubt it's an awesome light. I'd like to try one. The led fuge light that I have has plant spectrum growth pods in it reaching 200 par, which should be sufficient, but the tech geek in me knows how cool that light is and I want it.

 

[bif24701]

How can I use Triton while using Kalk and plane 2 part?

 

[Scott.h]

How can I use Triton while using Kalk and plane 2 part?

You wouldn't. You'd stop what you are using and substitute the four core 7 bottles instead. Unless you periodically did a triton test and added the other trace elements aside from the two part you are using. But technically it wouldn't really be the triton method. You'd really just be utilizing the triton tools along with your method

 

[ChromaticCorals]

Really interested in starting this method on my next tank. The lack of water changes is very appealing!

 

[BigHildy53]

I have a 180g DT with a Trigger Systems Emerald 39 sump. This sump doesn't lend itself to the Triton Method; not enough space for the recommended refugium. The only way I could do the Triton method it is add a 40g tank as a separate refugium sump. The refugium sump would have to be outside the stand because I couldn't fit it underneath, in the stand. I currently battle phosphate and nitrate, I'd say in the medium high range (.10 and 17 respectfully). Plus the idea of no water changes is real appealing. A question for existing Triton users. Is the hassle of a second refugium sump worth the benefits of the Triton method?

Thanks.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

I have a 180g DT with a Trigger Systems Emerald 39 sump. This sump doesn't lend itself to the Triton Method; not enough space for the recommended refugium. The only way I could do the Triton method it is add a 40g tank as a separate refugium sump. The refugium sump would have to be outside the stand because I couldn't fit it underneath, in the stand. I currently battle phosphate and nitrate, I'd say in the medium high range (.10 and 17 respectfully). Plus the idea of no water changes is real appealing. A question for existing Triton users. Is the hassle of a second refugium sump worth the benefits of the Triton method?

Thanks.

I am by no means knocking Triton and I love the whole idea behind "no water changes" BUT do your homework, search and search more before you decide to do triton, AF or any other methods. D2Mini has a posting on his experience. Good luck on what you choose to do.

 

[Scott.h]

I have a 180g DT with a Trigger Systems Emerald 39 sump. This sump doesn't lend itself to the Triton Method; not enough space for the recommended refugium. The only way I could do the Triton method it is add a 40g tank as a separate refugium sump. The refugium sump would have to be outside the stand because I couldn't fit it underneath, in the stand. I currently battle phosphate and nitrate, I'd say in the medium high range (.10 and 17 respectfully). Plus the idea of no water changes is real appealing. A question for existing Triton users. Is the hassle of a second refugium sump worth the benefits of the Triton method?

Thanks.

Just out of curiosity, have you skipped a water change or two and seen if your nutrient levels plateaued from going much higher?

 

[Berlibee]

So your system consumes 0.6 per day? How many Gallons or Litres is the system?

As far as testing regularity goes it is really up to you, I would say a good guide would be every 3 months or so, if you suspect something might not be right then test anyway, we have customers who test once a year all the way to customers who test every week!

Sorry missed your answer last day. Yes 0.6 per day consumption. It's 54g main display, 10 sump, 7.5g Refugium.
Thanks for the answer about the testing. This is my fear, the method sounds super interesting. But so scary to fall in the trap of constant tests and spending tons of money on tests ....