Guide to the Triton Method

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i'm using red sea reef care in my other tank, sent the water sample and on the process of converting it to triton "other method"...do i still need to use reef energy a and b for coral food? i know i will be using triton supplements and won't be using the red sea colors a b c d.
 
i'm using red sea reef care in my other tank, sent the water sample and on the process of converting it to triton "other method"...do i still need to use reef energy a and b for coral food? i know i will be using triton supplements and won't be using the red sea colors a b c d.
If you are not going full Triton then you may need to add additional food for the corals, careful consideration needs to go into picking your foods if you are planning on reducing the amount of water changes you do however.
 
If you are not going full Triton then you may need to add additional food for the corals, careful consideration needs to go into picking your foods if you are planning on reducing the amount of water changes you do however.
i'm also in the process of building full triton set up, does it mean, i don't need to feed the corals?
 
Full Triton with algae bed no you don’t need to feed the corals, fish food and fish waste are enough when put with what is released with the algae.

However if you are running very low nutrients some LPS may benefit from additional feeding
 
@Tim@Triton have you experienced what shows up from super glue gel in a test? I had everything in spec and I glued more then 20 frags.. used a big tube of seachem gel. Just curious as to what I could expect in a test from this?
 
@Tim@Triton have you experienced what shows up from super glue gel in a test? I had everything in spec and I glued more then 20 frags.. used a big tube of seachem gel. Just curious as to what I could expect in a test from this?
Depends on what type you used. I once sampled immediately after using glue and had a terrible set of results! That was a liquid type glue and not cyanoacrylate which is generally ok.

The bad one contained Cadmium, Tin, Arsenic, Molybdenum, Zinc to name a few, a proper cocktail of nasty elements!
 
Quick question. I have a fuge with 5% of the needed volume, but I also have an algae scrubber to supplement. Should I go with the "other" methods?
 
Hi guys I have tried and read me up to this and I really want to start with Triton but I have some questions about progress.


im not a noob in the reef hobby but in this case I am: P

okey here goes.


I understand that if you do not have 10% -20% refugium then you recommend and use the Other method right ?

I have a 600 liter aquarium an first chamber is only 20L so that's not an altarnative i guss ?

But when you run other method what does this mean? What products should I use then and what's the difference ?

What do you use for and get down no3 po4?
 
Hi guys I have tried and read me up to this and I really want to start with Triton but I have some questions about progress.


im not a noob in the reef hobby but in this case I am: P

okey here goes.


I understand that if you do not have 10% -20% refugium then you recommend and use the Other method right ?

I have a 600 liter aquarium an first chamber is only 20L so that's not an altarnative i guss ?

But when you run other method what does this mean? What products should I use then and what's the difference ?

What do you use for and get down no3 po4?
You can use carbon dosing and gfo to control nutrients. But can you truely achieve the correct levels of N and P without water changes? These are the things you have to consider. You definitely want the core 7 bottles labeled "other method". You can still Change some water with this method too, but you aren't getting the real value of the system if you are doing water changes. That's why focus on filtration is key. The "other method" bottles lack elements designed to help the fuge grow and be more functional. With a fuge that size you'd almost certainly have unwanted algae in the display, so stick to the "other method".
 
You can use carbon dosing and gfo to control nutrients. But can you truely achieve the correct levels of N and P without water changes? These are the things you have to consider. You definitely want the core 7 bottles labeled "other method". You can still Change some water with this method too, but you aren't getting the real value of the system if you are doing water changes. That's why focus on filtration is key. The "other method" bottles lack elements designed to help the fuge grow and be more functional. With a fuge that size you'd almost certainly have unwanted algae in the display, so stick to the "other method".


Thanks for the answar Scott :)

i using today a rollermatte but i saw BRS did take it away do i need to do the same ? like i cant use it
 
Thanks for the answar Scott :)

i using today a rollermatte but i saw BRS did take it away do i need to do the same ? like i cant use it
I've tried it both ways. Personally I feel like not having a filter makes a mess of the sump. It really depends on if you are able to have the macro thrive. The reason behind not having filter and having the fuge be the first chamber is so the junk can feed the macro. Imo just don't let the N and P get too low, and provide the fuge with proper lighting and flow and it's not an issue.
 
I have an established system and was interested in switching to the Triton system to maintain an easier dosing method. I have a reguvium that is roughly 15% of my DT volume. My fuge has approximately 2 inches of miracle mud. If I switch will this have undesired effects when using the system? Would this probibit me from using the full system and fall into the other methods category? I have a lot of established life in my fuge that help feed some picky eaters. I'm on the fence aboht giving that up.
 
I have an established system and was interested in switching to the Triton system to maintain an easier dosing method. I have a reguvium that is roughly 15% of my DT volume. My fuge has approximately 2 inches of miracle mud. If I switch will this have undesired effects when using the system? Would this probibit me from using the full system and fall into the other methods category? I have a lot of established life in my fuge that help feed some picky eaters. I'm on the fence aboht giving that up.
Personally I'd leave it alone and not disturb it. Sounds like you'd be able to do the full method.
 
Personally I'd leave it alone and not disturb it. Sounds like you'd be able to do the full method.
Thanks I thought so. Everything else in my setup is in line with their recommendations except that. I has just weary because miracle mud is supposed to add trace elements yo the system and I was affraid it would interfere with dosing triton core elements.
 
@Tim@Triton I have Cheato in my sump with an H380 hanging over it. The cheato doesn't rotate because the entire chamber is packed the algae.

This is the goal right? and then I just let it die off naturally over time?

Also flow is 8 to 10 times tank volume right?
 
@Tim@Triton I have Cheato in my sump with an H380 hanging over it. The cheato doesn't rotate because the entire chamber is packed the algae.

This is the goal right? and then I just let it die off naturally over time?

Also flow is 8 to 10 times tank volume right?
Yes you let some of the algae die off which releases "foods" for the corals to feed on, the amount and regularity that you harvest depends on your nutrient situation, if they are higher then you can harvest more often and larger amounts etc

10x system volume turnover per hour.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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