Guide to the Triton Method

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@Tim@Triton
I've been experiencing an issue in one of my non triton systems. I sent in a sample, and upon the results I don't have a water issue at all. I have a year old trash can for water changes (when new cleaned with alcohol and dish soap separately) I'm wondering if there could be a mold release coming out of the plastic leaching something non detectable to triton. Have you ever heard of this? It has to be related to that or coral chemical warfare.
 
I am about to move and reset an established 280 Gallon tank and am considering the Triton method, I have read this thread start to finish, I have found some very interesting comments and learned quite a bit thanks to all who have contributed. The one thing no one will put in writing is even the approximate cost of anything such as each test or even a bottle of supplement everyone knows there are variables to cost but i think most would like to see an approximate baseline for some costs rough estimates would be appreciated.
 
Ok did a little research on cost. If you are using Quality salt plus having to make RODI where I am water usage adds double to your sewer bill $$ plus spend more time doing water changes unless I am missing something, after initial test period it about evens out. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. I doubt you would need all of the supplements available to begin with, if ever also i may already have some of the boosters in another brand
 
The test and the base elements are reasonable. I'm dosing 5 MLs a day in a 6 month old 425L tank. So I'm getting 180 days out of my elements and I do an ICP test every three months. I've needed no boosters, but I've had to do a few water changes (due to Aluminum)

Cheers,
Jason
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Thanks for the replies I think I was a little frustrated after reading 7 pages and no answer to cost looked for two minutes and found what i was looking for. but I did get a lot more useful info than I originally was looking for.
 
@Tim@Triton
I've been experiencing an issue in one of my non triton systems. I sent in a sample, and upon the results I don't have a water issue at all. I have a year old trash can for water changes (when new cleaned with alcohol and dish soap separately) I'm wondering if there could be a mold release coming out of the plastic leaching something non detectable to triton. Have you ever heard of this? It has to be related to that or coral chemical warfare.
Hmm no normally with plastics breaking down we would pick something up such as Antimony or Silicates.

Are you seeing bacterial film or anything like that?
 
Hmm no normally with plastics breaking down we would pick something up such as Antimony or Silicates.

Are you seeing bacterial film or anything like that?
Nothing noticeable. But the saltwater is only in the can the night before a water change with a powerhead.

Silicates are lower then the setpoint. 6 months ago I was worried my star polyps we're going to get out of control. Even consuming my palythoa. They have completely melted away along with my Xenia. I was hoping to see something out of line, but with pro reef and 17% weekly water changes my numbers are surprisingly awesome with the exception of the real trace elements not being present. It's a old mature tank, never dosed trace. If it's not the trash can it has to be paly toxins. Or a ton of grape calurpa. I'll get to the bottom of it.
 
@Tim@Triton when to i start dosing the core 7, during cycle or after the cycle??!
Once you have consumption, if you are not consuming elements then there is no point adding them.

Generally once the cycle is complete and you have added some of your first hardy corals.
 
Hi guys, I have been trying to get the Triton method going but I have a complicated system that I don't know if it meets the guidelines for it. System consists of a 100 gal display, as well as 2 frag tanks (one is 45 gal and the other is 40 gal), as well as a 30 gal smaller display, all are feeding into a 120 gal hydroponic tub which houses some macro algae in a separated compartment, the pump (Vectra L1), skimmer (Reef Octo), and a dual gfo/carbon reactor from BRS, also in a separate compartment within the tub. Macros include chaeto inside a 5 gal tank that overflows into the tub (to minimize loose pieces), to where 2 of the 4 overflows empty to, some rooted mangroves that are buried in a plastic bin within the tub, and some other different macros I cannot recall the names of. I know the method calls for a 10% fuge and at this point I feel like I have used up around that much of the tub for the fuge. However, I am still unsure if this constitutes "a fuge" so that I can run the system correctly. I am ordering it this weekend and want to know if I should order the core 7 or the other methods. Any input would be appreciated.
 
Hi guys, I have been trying to get the Triton method going but I have a complicated system that I don't know if it meets the guidelines for it. System consists of a 100 gal display, as well as 2 frag tanks (one is 45 gal and the other is 40 gal), as well as a 30 gal smaller display, all are feeding into a 120 gal hydroponic tub which houses some macro algae in a separated compartment, the pump (Vectra L1), skimmer (Reef Octo), and a dual gfo/carbon reactor from BRS, also in a separate compartment within the tub. Macros include chaeto inside a 5 gal tank that overflows into the tub (to minimize loose pieces), to where 2 of the 4 overflows empty to, some rooted mangroves that are buried in a plastic bin within the tub, and some other different macros I cannot recall the names of. I know the method calls for a 10% fuge and at this point I feel like I have used up around that much of the tub for the fuge. However, I am still unsure if this constitutes "a fuge" so that I can run the system correctly. I am ordering it this weekend and want to know if I should order the core 7 or the other methods. Any input would be appreciated.
If you aren't for certain if your fuge volume is sufficient you could start with "core 7 -non triton". If your fuge size isn't sufficient, your fuge lighting isn't sufficient, or your tank in general is immature, you'll see excess algae growth in the display from the added macro elements contained in the "full method" core 7. If you are able to keep chaeto now without adding elements to keep it alive, the non full method core would be fine.
 
@Tim@Triton

My tank just finished cycling. Started seeding pods. Plan is to wait a month or so before adding fish and corals. Right time to purchase the test kit or wait?
 
Read through the whole thread. Can't find the answer.

What is the difference between the Core7 Base Elements 1000mL Set - Triton Method and
Core7 Reef Supplements 1000mL Set - Triton (Other Methods)
?
Well I talked to the guys at Triton and got that answer. Basically the differece is there are elements in the regular core system that promotes increased algae growth for your fuge. If you want to use the regular core system you want to stick to Tritons guidelines for how your system should be ste up. If you are working outside their guidelines like your fuge is not the size they suggest or your using other additives or still doing water changed you would use other methods. Thats the general answer hope it helps.
 
Well I talked to the guys at Triton and got that answer. Basically the differece is there are elements in the regular core system that promotes increased algae growth for your fuge. If you want to use the regular core system you want to stick to Tritons guidelines for how your system should be ste up. If you are working outside their guidelines like your fuge is not the size they suggest or your using other additives or still doing water changed you would use other methods. Thats the general answer hope it helps.

Thank you!
 
Why is the 10x turnover recommended? That seems like an awful lot.
 
Why is the 10x turnover recommended? That seems like an awful lot.
From what the guys told me at MACNA it has to do with the nutrient uptake in the fuge and the uptake of co2. Everything is really base on the fuge. With the core 7 your fuge will grow really really fast and will take a lot of nutrients and co2 out of the system. Basically you need a lot of turnover to feed the fuge.
 
Hi there Triton, love the new method, but was hoping to get an educated response.

Besides the Triton concept of filtration(fuge), testing(ICP) and corrective dosing of needed elements, what are the differences when it comes to chemistry from the balling method, so common in Europe?
 

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