Randy Holmes-Farley
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My Tank Thread
Hair Algae
- Thread starter chris489
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I was told the same thing about removing the rock- just did yesterday. Of course it was a base rock...I've been battling gha on one rock only. Could the rock be leeching something? I manually remove what I can by hand weekly with water changes. But it comes back just as strong. Pretty frustrating stuff [emoji53]
Tank is resettling, I will let you know how it goes!
Removing the rock is possible compared to that, you'd have to remove it to take it down. We can get that algae out with no recycle or loss of corals
It's one rock at a time, this family isn't a fast spreader like valonia for ex
I know it's daunting, but this is truly the price we all must pay for following old algae advice that says
Leave it in the tank, act only on the water.
2015
Act on the algae, if your water is ok leave it alone. The old ways got me too, I lost a reef to gelidium type takeover
The only reason my original reefbowl from 2001 isn't here is because of red gelidium algae and nobody knew how to beat it in 2006. I dumped in chemiclean, did manual removal constantly and then gave up, I know the hassle you feel. I promise we can beat it but big tanks are big work
You will see that offers to fix your red algae dry up mighty fast, and links showing it being beaten are not easy to find, nothing beats peroxide for it IMO. We predict nearly to the day how long it takes to die but the access of live rock in a dense, large system is many times worse than the algae. We have tons of underwater treatment options for GHA in this type of tank, and it will comply.
But not rhodophyta, must be externally treated it's too strong to respond to in tank dilution.
It's one rock at a time, this family isn't a fast spreader like valonia for ex
I know it's daunting, but this is truly the price we all must pay for following old algae advice that says
Leave it in the tank, act only on the water.
2015
Act on the algae, if your water is ok leave it alone. The old ways got me too, I lost a reef to gelidium type takeover
The only reason my original reefbowl from 2001 isn't here is because of red gelidium algae and nobody knew how to beat it in 2006. I dumped in chemiclean, did manual removal constantly and then gave up, I know the hassle you feel. I promise we can beat it but big tanks are big work
You will see that offers to fix your red algae dry up mighty fast, and links showing it being beaten are not easy to find, nothing beats peroxide for it IMO. We predict nearly to the day how long it takes to die but the access of live rock in a dense, large system is many times worse than the algae. We have tons of underwater treatment options for GHA in this type of tank, and it will comply.
But not rhodophyta, must be externally treated it's too strong to respond to in tank dilution.
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Breakthrough alert
Based on your fts pics from other thread
You can do a drain and treat technique you don't have to take it apart. House the fish and cleaner shrimp elsewhere, drain all water down and hit the spots. You don't attack it all at once you do many drain and treats accessing the spots each time
We aren't getting out of work here in any way but it can be swapped to different work, draining and replacing the water a few times. A drained tank means you can access each spot in the air, but still in the tank. a brute trash can from wal mart will hold your water, and you can use the old or change some out for fresh when inputting.
We must attack that algae in the air first. After searching online around the various forums or formal articles regarding this algae to see how others beat it consider this drain and treat, I do this in my aquarium. The exact way to speed up the fix is to use slightly higher pct peroxide over the typical 3% but we can work with just 3% too if needed.
** I was not intending to make this a peroxide thread if anyone can beat rhodophyta groups using nutrients so he doesn't have to do the dance I'm reco then post alt threads
Consider using algal turf scrubbing renato they claim an ATS can cure any invasion in 100% of tanks every time. Before doing that mode, find an ATS user who beat your kind of algae with it and link it here as you research so we can see
I'm linking your thread here so others can see the great pics and pose another idea
http://reef2reef.com/threads/what-kind-of-algae-is-this.216532/#post-2491541
The key before we begin on your tank renato is for anyone to post any link where invasive red algae was beaten so we can review those options for your tank
The right place for nutrient controls in battling gha or any other algae is never as a reaction. as a proaction
and then if you get algae, you don't redo the water table you fix the algae and stay course.
all the retroactive nutrient chasing advised is whats stripping these tanks of coral from po4 overdoing and whats leaving algae in place for months after re adjustment where it will never go away for the 40%.
Based on your fts pics from other thread
You can do a drain and treat technique you don't have to take it apart. House the fish and cleaner shrimp elsewhere, drain all water down and hit the spots. You don't attack it all at once you do many drain and treats accessing the spots each time
We aren't getting out of work here in any way but it can be swapped to different work, draining and replacing the water a few times. A drained tank means you can access each spot in the air, but still in the tank. a brute trash can from wal mart will hold your water, and you can use the old or change some out for fresh when inputting.
We must attack that algae in the air first. After searching online around the various forums or formal articles regarding this algae to see how others beat it consider this drain and treat, I do this in my aquarium. The exact way to speed up the fix is to use slightly higher pct peroxide over the typical 3% but we can work with just 3% too if needed.
** I was not intending to make this a peroxide thread if anyone can beat rhodophyta groups using nutrients so he doesn't have to do the dance I'm reco then post alt threads
Consider using algal turf scrubbing renato they claim an ATS can cure any invasion in 100% of tanks every time. Before doing that mode, find an ATS user who beat your kind of algae with it and link it here as you research so we can see
I'm linking your thread here so others can see the great pics and pose another idea
http://reef2reef.com/threads/what-kind-of-algae-is-this.216532/#post-2491541
The key before we begin on your tank renato is for anyone to post any link where invasive red algae was beaten so we can review those options for your tank
The right place for nutrient controls in battling gha or any other algae is never as a reaction. as a proaction
and then if you get algae, you don't redo the water table you fix the algae and stay course.
all the retroactive nutrient chasing advised is whats stripping these tanks of coral from po4 overdoing and whats leaving algae in place for months after re adjustment where it will never go away for the 40%.
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robert
Valuable Member
I don't see how living and growing chaeto could be the problem causing red algae.
No one said it caused the red alage - typical.
But it is a reservoir of nutrients in the system - once it reaches a point of stasis - dying as fast as its growing - it is a constant source of nutrients to other organisms (algae included) in other areas of the system...
To use chaeto as an effective long term export - you have to remove some of it from the system from time to time - clean out the yellow and dying - thin it so what remains is heathy. It should not be packed and optimally should be tumbling to get even light.
If your getting gas bubbles - its too tight and not healthy.
Is this causing red aglae - no - could this be feeding the red algae - yes.
I agree that once established - it is unlikely you can starve the red algae out of the system.
You'll have to find something that eats it faster than it can grow - or attack it directly...
Robert Im curious to know if you think the red algae issue is mediated by nutrients, that we would be able to address and if so, do you have any threads where remedying the nutrients removed gelidium or similar types
the inversion id then ask would be:
can we find evidence of this family being imported into pristine ULNS systems which are nutrient controlled beforehand, and thriving until someone came along and zapped it out
im thinking this type of invader will harvest nutrients from any place where corals reside and it will thrive, these thick bodied reds hold their own nutrient reserves for a while and its really hard to starve them with their canteens in place
the inversion id then ask would be:
can we find evidence of this family being imported into pristine ULNS systems which are nutrient controlled beforehand, and thriving until someone came along and zapped it out
im thinking this type of invader will harvest nutrients from any place where corals reside and it will thrive, these thick bodied reds hold their own nutrient reserves for a while and its really hard to starve them with their canteens in place
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robert
Valuable Member
First to the OP's problem...I have never had this particular algae issue but this may give some encouragement and direction.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-12/nftt/index.php
@brandon429 - first, i too have found h2o2 extremely useful for many many situations. For everything from alage over-growth to run-away aptasia. With a little care and practice - its awsome and comparatively safe...I have "reset" tanks on several occasions with it.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cleaning-old-rock.205953/page-3#post-2359017
But to your questions, yes - ultimately everything is mediated through nutrients, but often, maybe usually, it not as simple as getting N and P to zero.
Many marine red algaes, especially those like the gelidiums, that are used to make agar, consume sulphate to produce polysaccarides as a potential protection for extened periods of N depletion. Further it seems that N limitation may be a triggering factor for these algaes to produce these compounds. While this is uncommon interrestrial fauna, this is aparently quite common in many marine algaes.
Ultimately N starvation will set in - but as you point out, these algaes are designed to weather such shortages and it may not be possible to starve these algeas into submission in our tanks. Indeed episodic N starvation may only serve to toughen them up.
There could potentially be other ways to get at this algae...but speculation will only get me flamed...absent a predator - your direct approach seems reasonable.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-12/nftt/index.php
@brandon429 - first, i too have found h2o2 extremely useful for many many situations. For everything from alage over-growth to run-away aptasia. With a little care and practice - its awsome and comparatively safe...I have "reset" tanks on several occasions with it.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cleaning-old-rock.205953/page-3#post-2359017
But to your questions, yes - ultimately everything is mediated through nutrients, but often, maybe usually, it not as simple as getting N and P to zero.
Many marine red algaes, especially those like the gelidiums, that are used to make agar, consume sulphate to produce polysaccarides as a potential protection for extened periods of N depletion. Further it seems that N limitation may be a triggering factor for these algaes to produce these compounds. While this is uncommon interrestrial fauna, this is aparently quite common in many marine algaes.
Ultimately N starvation will set in - but as you point out, these algaes are designed to weather such shortages and it may not be possible to starve these algeas into submission in our tanks. Indeed episodic N starvation may only serve to toughen them up.
There could potentially be other ways to get at this algae...but speculation will only get me flamed...absent a predator - your direct approach seems reasonable.
Hi guys...
Some body tell me plz what's reason of phosphate.?? I m New in this hobby after the complete cycling I check phosphate reading is on 3... I ad two clown fish with in 4 days both of fish dies...I also ad 2 blue leg crabs crabs r fine salinity reading is 23 temp 28 and also tell me about velvet disease?? And reasons of this disease ??
Some body tell me plz what's reason of phosphate.?? I m New in this hobby after the complete cycling I check phosphate reading is on 3... I ad two clown fish with in 4 days both of fish dies...I also ad 2 blue leg crabs crabs r fine salinity reading is 23 temp 28 and also tell me about velvet disease?? And reasons of this disease ??
Randy Holmes-Farley
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My Tank Thread
I strongly doubt the fish died from phosphate. 3 ppm phosphate (if that is what you mean) is VERY high for a reef, but it doesn't generally harm fish that I've heard of. This article tells all you'd want to know about phosphate:
Phosphate In The Reef Aquarium
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/?p=3184
For velvet, you should search on it as there are tons of articles and threads on such fish diseases.http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php
