Hair Algae

agree its very low level, easy. sometimes I worry if they'll post this:

(poster mainsalt in our challenge thread, could quite possibly be a nutrient issue lol)
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factors: you have two peroxide sensitive animals in the tank, the cleaner shrimp and the anemone. none of the fish are a concern nor the other corals.

Cleaner shrimp die in the order of 90% when exposed to any form of peroxide and we list them as the single most sensitive organisms we know to it. so, this is external treaments and work, not easy dumping in tank. we treat hundreds of tanks with cleaner shrimp by working externally. lucky you to have an accessible rock scape, a true factor in being algae free after a few days from now if predictions pan out

no anemones have been lost in our threads to peroxide, but they act mad and shrivel up when people dump peroxide in their tanks so again that precludes the easy job everyone wants of just dump some peroxide in the tank.

The right step here is to see if you even want to do the method, and if not, consider the nutrient options. If that was my tank, I for sure would do the method and still use the nutrient changes but in a different way, as preventative. I wouldn't use further po4 chasing to be the remover here, you have a risk of overstripping the tank. I would separate the two actions based on that pic and details above.
clean up crews and nutrient controls work better, great, as preventatives and never the algae remover, that's such a huge secret in my opinion. all my aquariums are immune to algae problems and this is how I got there

predict your growback to be low to highly acceptable such that you will like the method, you're already employing more nutrient controls than I do, you just have some grazers missing and we are now considering cheating around that.


A simple non committal test w tell us

take the most easily lifted out GHA rock you can get to, lift it out, and pour peroxide from a brand new unopened/not previously half flat bottle from medicine cabinet (run get some fresh 'ide) on the algae parts wet them good. let that rock sit in air for 3 mins, rinse off w clean tank water outside the tank so there is no peroxide, and put back in tank. rinse very well and the shrimp will not die. don't scrub or remove the algae, we watch to see if it responds and we've done nothing large scale or risky to the tank whatsoever. we haven't changed your major course with this specific test. post update pics couple days after a test area

I think it will be white in that test area within 48 hours if you soaked it good or at least clearly dying, and then another few days to fall off or have your CUC attack the treated areas because they love the taste of burnt algae.

this as a perfect candidate for peroxide in spite of my pure bias as there are only a few select areas that want a spot zap.

would keep up nutrient controls, employ better grazers, but I bet we clean that stuff right out over the course of the next week and if it doesn't follow suit you have one heck of an outlier tank.
even if you do not choose peroxide that's so low level its not a real concern, something w eat it eventually. casual viewers prob wouldn't notice that algae, but the owner knows every nuance of the tank and I too would want all algae gone even though its natural and is adapted to sharing space among corals on natural reefs. You could just as easily spot treat with tech M and use no peroxide, my angle is the direct attack and good sustainment one
 
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I did have a couple of hermit crabs but they took way too much interest in my sea hare! They looked like they were gonna tear him a new one!! What other CUC would you recommend? ?
 
I was dealing with the same issue.

It happened RIGHT after upgrading from kessil350s to kessil360WEs

Hair algae just showed up one day, slowly growing more and more as the days progressed.

My phosphates and nitrates had always read zero. Before the outbreak, during, and after.

I was stumped. No clue why there was so much hair algae.

My attempts:
1) Taking the rocks out and scrubbing the algae into a separate bucket and putting them back in.
2) Added 20 hermit crabs, 10 turbos, 5 trochus to my 40 breeder.
3) Black out periods
4) GFO and Carbon
5) Heavy water changes
6) Reduced feeding.

I only had 3 fish, two baby clowns and a baby yellow tang.

Despite all this, it did not go away for over 3 months! I was desperate at this point lol.

One day I stumbled onto a thread about API AlgaeFix on that one reef forum. Lots of reviews saying it worked. This was my last effort. This or give up and start the tank over. I followed their recommendations down to the letter because the stuff is not reef safe if you over do it.

I used it and saw results on like the 6th day. The hair algae fell off. Is it reef safe? Long term = NO. I noticed some corals like my acans having colorless holes in their flesh. I think the thread recommended that the 10th day you should stop dosing. For good reason too. All my other corals were fine, acro, bubble tipped anemone, rockflower, zoas, etc.
 
Zoaddicated that's a great post I agree with it. many chems are great direct assaulters, that just needed to be done as external treatments and not full tank ones and youd have perfect outcome. we have been missing direct treatment options in this hobby, its not always about peroxide that's just a fun tool we command well. When we let algae sit in, there is removal work to be done for the rocks and scape we farmed it on, then it will be dead, then the reapproach to nutrients is only needed to prevent. GHA is optional in 100% of aquariums at all times from cycle day 1 to year 49

its ok to farm them in ATS or try anything someone wants to try, merely stating direct kill was formerly taboo and now it fixes tanks. its sought out now, not on the backburner, its delivering.

Nutrients and grazers as algae preventers work well and best of any option




we used to be constrained to the only rules of *only treat the water, leave the algae*
I too would have no trouble using AFM on my tank as direct treats, peroxide and kent w burn algae just fine as external treatments. in my tank I cannot treat externally but its small enough I can drain the whole tank, zap a spot two years ago when I had to concern about it, then do another water change and fill up the tank with clean water. I never simply dump a chem in.


Chris on the CUC
They are so hit or miss im not sure what to recommend other than the standard fare, that seems like enough fish bioload for our purposes so I wouldn't go lawnmowers blennies (have read good about them) id prob use margarita snails and hermit crabs

that tang w begin the attack on that white algae, watch
 
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I've been battling gha on one rock only. Could the rock be leeching something? I manually remove what I can by hand weekly with water changes. But it comes back just as strong. Pretty frustrating stuff [emoji53]

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I've been battling gha on one rock only. Could the rock be leeching something? I manually remove what I can by hand weekly with water changes. But it comes back just as strong. Pretty frustrating stuff [emoji53]

It could be releasing phosphate so it is higher locally. Or it may like that rock for other reasons.
 
This is in balance imo, that's right where a grazer might hone in on a natural reef. whether or not it stays is optional
 
I have been dealing with this algae. Looks like GHA but its red. Very hard to remove. Its taking over slowly and I cant figure out yet what is the problem. I do have a 20g refugium half full with cheato. Its always yellow at the top and thousands of microbubbles on top of it. Should I remove the cheato? Here is a pic of the red algae between the acans. Could the cheato be the problem?
Btw I have 0 po4

image.jpeg
 
I can say that generally macroalgaes and corals are competitors on the reef. Studies have shown that macroalgaes generally are net producers of specific forms of dissolved organic carbons which shift the balance of bacteria living in the corals in such a way as to inhibit the growth of corals (on average about 40%) and in some cases result in the death of the corals they contact. Not all algaes were equally proficient in retarding or destroying corals - but all that were studied did to a greater or lesser extent.

Elevated nitrogen and phosphates - the control of which your probably growing the chaeto in the fisrt place - have experimentally not been found to lead to coral mortality. While it has been long suspected that elevated N and P might ****** coral growth - Other studies of corals raised in the shadow of fish farms suggest the opposite., N and P in these seemed to improve coral growth.

At any rate - based on personal experience and general husbandry practices - the dying chaeto can only be contributing to the nutrient load in the system and should go...stagnant lumps of chaeto are not healthy for the system...and while I can't say they are a cause of your red algae - I can say that the chaeto is likely working against you at this point.
 
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If the rock is leeching phosphate could it be stopped or what could I do for that rock? Unfortunately my caps are really taking a likening to that rock lol

It will eventually stop on its own, but the only thing you can do is remove it and keep it in very low phosphate water for a while to accelerate the process.
 
I have been dealing with this algae. Looks like GHA but its red. Very hard to remove. Its taking over slowly and I cant figure out yet what is the problem. I do have a 20g refugium half full with cheato. Its always yellow at the top and thousands of microbubbles on top of it. Should I remove the cheato? Here is a pic of the red algae between the acans. Could the cheato be the problem?
Btw I have 0 po4

image.jpeg

I don't see how living and growing chaeto could be the problem causing red algae. :)
 
I don't see how living and growing chaeto could be the problem causing red algae. :)
I dont know if its a problem or not... I wish I could resolve this problem. They are taking over... I have crabs, snails, se hare, sea urchin, fox face , and nothing do the job... Everytime I scrape some corals get ruined. I vroke my atached candy cane yesterday :/
 
rhodophyta are requisite hitchhikers renato and I know of probably 1000 posts online regarding gelidium invasions or various cousins and I do not know one instance where further po4 or no3 restriction removed the offender. If anyone can find a link, I'm sure one exists somewhere, post up



gHA certainly has a massive correction rate given enough time and balance by altering nutrients.

But this group of reds encompassing several species in our tanks are just amazing harvesters of feed to the point I can't recall starvation working, and we purposely solicit these kinds of invaders for our correction threads


In my opinion that will either be grazed out, left in place, or simply manually killed it has a nine day death phase upon direct spot treatment



so far, I see not one nutrient balance issue in any post here, just some low level growths that would require grazing or direct disallowance to be free of the minor eyesore
 

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