Hammer coral experts I need some input

Alex's Nano Reef

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Based off of these pictures and parameters what kind of conclusions do you come to. i cant figure out why this frag isnt doing well aswell as another euphyllia. It seems one side is inflated more than the other the right side.
Running Protien skimmer
Running UV Sterilizer
chemipure blue
Params
PH 8.0
AMMONIA 0
NITRITE 0
NITRATE 5
SALINITY 1.025
PHOS .03
CALCIUM 450 PPM
MAG 1240
ALK 8.5

IMG_0977.jpg
IMG_0978.jpg
IMG_0980.jpg
 
To be honest, just seems like a newish frag. Looks fine to me. Just give it some time to get used to it's new home.
 
To be honest, just seems like a newish frag. Looks fine to me. Just give it some time to get used to it's new home.
Had it for about 2 weeks so far it came in damaged as hell i nursed it back it was doing great then had an alk swing and it looks like this now. can a water change hurt?
 
Had it for about 2 weeks so far it came in damaged as hell i nursed it back it was doing great then had an alk swing and it looks like this now. can a water change hurt?
In my opinion no, water changes never hurt as long as they match your existing parameters etc. IMO 2 weeks is a very short time still. Some frags just take more time to adjust than others. And you said this one has been improving so you are doing something right. As long as you don't see it deteriorating I would say leave it be for now
 
I wouldn't worry. It's not fully retracted to start, so that's good. Nothing seems notably off base with your parameters, and you're doing the right thing keeping it on the sandbed to start before putting it in a higher light area. I'm assuming you keep other corals successfully so it seems like light probably isn't an issue either. If you really wanna be picky you can give it a look to see if any of that algae growing around it might be growing near the head and ticking it off, but it seems unlikely. If I were you I'd let it be for now unless you get several days of it being fully closed up
 
In my opinion no, water changes never hurt as long as they match your existing parameters etc. IMO 2 weeks is a very short time still. Some frags just take more time to adjust than others. And you said this one has been improving so you are doing something right. As long as you don't see it deteriorating I would say leave it be for now
see thats the thing the state the coral is in now is worse than what it was a week ago technically deteriorating at least in my opinion i could be wrong but i was thinking of doing a maybe 3 gallon water change just in case something got in the tank i cant test for.
 
I wouldn't worry. It's not fully retracted to start, so that's good. Nothing seems notably off base with your parameters, and you're doing the right thing keeping it on the sandbed to start before putting it in a higher light area. I'm assuming you keep other corals successfully so it seems like light probably isn't an issue either. If you really wanna be picky you can give it a look to see if any of that algae growing around it might be growing near the head and ticking it off, but it seems unlikely. If I were you I'd let it be for now unless you get several days of it being fully closed up
Maybe the alk sking threw it for a real ride
 
It looks fine to me, only thing I will say though is Euphyllia tend to do better and “look” better with higher nitrates. I’m also curious as to how much flow they’re getting as well as par.
 
my alk got down to 6.4 and i corrected over the period of like 5 hours the night of. that was maybe 3-4 days ago but i think im gonna wait it out if it gets any worse im gonna do a water change because i caught my cat jumping up onto the screen top getting soaked and getting my couch wet so im worried about some litter or poop coming off hit feet or something.
 
WC probably isn't a bad idea, won't do any harm. That alc swing does seem pretty significant, might be ticked off about that. But don't worry too much. As a fellow neurotic reefer, as hard as it is, sometimes the best thing to do is be patient and not mess with too much :D
 
It looks fine to me, only thing I will say though is Euphyllia tend to do better and “look” better with higher nitrates. I’m also curious as to how much flow they’re getting as well as par.
flow.PNG

This is my flow check my buildthread the last page got a full tank shot w the position of the powerhead its a Mp10
This is my kessil shedule Kessile a360w
12-1 10% clr 20% int
1-2 40% clr 35% int
2-5 50% clr 45% int
5-7 40% clr 35% int
7-9 10% clr 20% int
9-11 10% clr 20% ramp to 0
 
is this too much light or to little or should be fine
What test kits are you using ? Many zero reading while not impossible is questionable.
Regarding your hammers . . . . Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
 
What test kits are you using ? Many zero reading while not impossible is questionable.
Regarding your hammers . . . . Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Im using hanna checkers. then i went to the lfs where they used salifert hanna checkers and a spin test
 
Based on your low Mg maybe your salinity is not what you think. How do you measure it? Many refractometers are not that accurate. As mentioned by others stability is a prerequisite for euphylias especially KH. I see no reason for WC.
 
your mag is low, may not be the exact cause but i would retest a few hours after the water change and dose accordingly. it doesnt look too concerning to me, possibly adjusting to light and flow.
 
Based on your low Mg maybe your salinity is not what you think. How do you measure it? Many refractometers are not that accurate. As mentioned by others stability is a prerequisite for euphylias especially KH. I see no reason for WC.
salinity is stable at 1.025 it was tested by two different hanna salinity checkers at least one was calibrated recently.
 

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