Hanna phosphorus ulr ppb help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sam22
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I would trust the Hanna kit over Red Sea
Never trust this crap, i have the hanna kh it is great ,but the i also have the hanne ul phosphat reading zre never accurate i sent it back to hanna two times already ,they say it work what is wrong i compared it two 3 other test ,all show me similar result even my fish storr show me similar results so does the icp test ,but the hanna show all time between 0,12 ans 0,4 more! A the beginning i trust the hanna and during two months changed two times per week the rowa phos and changed water,ge still showed me high phosphate when in real i had 0!near crashed my tank because of this crap
 
Im not sure the hanna will work for ro water as it is designed to be used for saltwater, so i would check first before reading ro water.
 
So my reagent pack number is H1736-0 I’ve looked online and all the reagent packs are labelled h1736-25 could this make any difference?
 
Think the 25 is just the number in a packet might be wrong tho
 
Ye looks like it so mine is labelled with a 0 as there the ones that came in the box with the checker
 
You may already be doing this. Cap on checker must be closed every time you press the button, to move to the next step. You must get all the granules out of the sachet, not just most of them. When mixing/shaking, I do it more vigorously than gently.

It is also possible that the reagent packs are bad. I've never had this happen (I use the ulr ppm checker), but I've read about it on here.
 
So I’m gonna have the lfs test it they use salifert and I’m going to buy the nyos test kit whilst I’m there and fetch my Red Sea pro with me and use all 3 of those to test if they are all similar I may buy some new reagent if that still come back at 200 I may just return it and carry on guessing between colours better that than thinking I have 0.7 phosphate and crash my tank trying to get it down to 0.1 or lower. Like I’ve said everything in the tank is doing well it my first tank I’ve had no coral loss and have 2 acors and Millie in there all doing well
 
I’ve been using the Red Sea phosphate pro yet kit for months with a constant reading of between 0.08 and 0.12 so I’ve alway thought my phosphate sits around 0.1 today I bought the Hanna phosphorus ulr checker and tests my water and it flashed 200 I did another test and got the same I then diluted the 10ml reading with 5ml tank water and 5ml rodi and it read 120 which would mean my phosphate is 0.735 if correct. I use the Hanna alk so vile is clean inserted in with the 10ml facing forward each time and have used a brand new syringe to put the water in the cuvette. After the 3 tests I used my Red Sea pro kit again and it read 0.08 any ideas what’s going on. Hanna ulr is brand new and the sachets are in date
Test a batch of fresh salt water with the Checker and Red Sea tests. What are the results?
 
Just tested using tropic Marin pro came out at 7ppn 0.02 phosphate
 
So I’m sure the Hanna is right and my Red Sea is way off just used the Red Sea to test the fresh batch and is showing between 0.08 and 0.12. So all this time I’ve thought that was my range I’m actually at 0.7 so I need to safely start to bring it down like I’ve said I already run rowaphos I’ve just put new in and usually use 2 tea spoons and just upped that to 4. How quickly can I safely get this down and is something like quantum phosphate remover a god idea?
 
I’ve been using the Red Sea phosphate pro yet kit for months with a constant reading of between 0.08 and 0.12 so I’ve alway thought my phosphate sits around 0.1 today I bought the Hanna phosphorus ulr checker and tests my water and it flashed 200 I did another test and got the same I then diluted the 10ml reading with 5ml tank water and 5ml rodi and it read 120 which would mean my phosphate is 0.735 if correct. I use the Hanna alk so vile is clean inserted in with the 10ml facing forward each time and have used a brand new syringe to put the water in the cuvette. After the 3 tests I used my Red Sea pro kit again and it read 0.08 any ideas what’s going on. Hanna ulr is brand new and the sachets are in date
I experienced something similar when I first purchased the hanna phosphorous ulr kit. Here are a couple of things I learned, I now have absolutely no problems getting accurate readings every time (it's the best and most important test kit I own tbh):

1.) The phosphorous ulr kit seems to be the most sensitive to not filling it precisely on the fill line. Always ensure you are filling it smack dab on the fill line everytime, that means the meniscus as well. The kit often gives crazy readings when you don't fill it appropriately. This is the first thing I'd check and fix.

2.) Be sure to remove ALL air bubbles, every time. When I use the kit, I initially fill the cuvet and then tap the top/bottom multiple times to get the immediate air bubbles out. I then tilt it on it's side and slowly roll it which tends to get rid of the larger bubbles. I perform this before I fill with reagent and after I shake (before inserting the cuvet into the kit for the final reading).

3.) Never handle the cuvet directly to ensure that you are never leaving fingerprints on the cuvet. Fingerprints will cause crazy readings. I use a paper towel every time I interact with the cuvet and also wipe to remove any potential fingerprints/other embeddings on the cuvet before and after use.

4.) Place the cuvet in the same position for both the C1 and C2 readings.

5.) Maintain the same process every time you use the test kit. Here is my exact procedure every time I test:

A.) Pre-cut the reagent and fold it, working the reagent to the bottom of the package for a very quick pour.
B.) Remove the cuvet with a paper towell, wiping the sides in the process.
C.) Fill the cuvet until the meniscus is smack dab on the fill line of cuvet, DO NOT rush through this.
D.) Remove all bubbles from the cuvet by both tapping the top/bottom and then rolling the cuvet.
E.) I use my phone to have a timer ready as soon as the test kit is done with c1. I do this to know exactly how long I need to shake for to not get past the 3 minute turnoff.
F.) I immediately pour the reagent that I pre-prepared which allows me to do this in under 5-10 seconds.
G.) I shake violently for 1 minute and then slowly for the remaining minute.
H.) Since I'm only at 2:30 seconds after shaking for two minutes, I use the time to tap the top/bottom again and roll to remove all air bubbles.
I.) Place the cuvet back in and get your final c2 reading.
J.) Be sure to quickly clean out the reagent in under 2 minutes after getting your ready to avoid staining the cuvet. I typically fill several times with tap water and then one last time with ro/di water. Also be sure to wipe off all the sides and the water from the cuvet once complete.

I do this exact procedure like clockwork every time I read phosphate and it's very accurate.
 
I’ve been using the Red Sea phosphate pro yet kit for months with a constant reading of between 0.08 and 0.12 so I’ve alway thought my phosphate sits around 0.1 today I bought the Hanna phosphorus ulr checker and tests my water and it flashed 200 I did another test and got the same I then diluted the 10ml reading with 5ml tank water and 5ml rodi and it read 120 which would mean my phosphate is 0.735 if correct. I use the Hanna alk so vile is clean inserted in with the 10ml facing forward each time and have used a brand new syringe to put the water in the cuvette. After the 3 tests I used my Red Sea pro kit again and it read 0.08 any ideas what’s going on. Hanna ulr is brand new and the sachets are in date
Mine was doing the same thing, I think I got a bad set of packets
 
Mine was doing the same thing, I think I got a bad set of packets
Defiantly getting more tomorrow as used all 6 that came with the tester this evening all tho I think with testing again being really careful I don’t think I’m at 200 but deffo higher than I should be
 
Going to cut back on feeding do a few larger water changes about 30% maybe 2 a week for a couple weeks? And have doubled the amount of rowaphos in my reactor
 
Going to cut back on feeding do a few larger water changes about 30% maybe 2 a week for a couple weeks? And have doubled the amount of rowaphos in my reactor
After mixing the reagent, place against something solid white. If you are reading .7 then the treated sample should have a blue tint to it. Is it blue? If it is not blue, something is wrong and I would hold off on the Rowa or lanthanum until you are certain about a reading.
 
After mixing the reagent, place against something solid white. If you are reading .7 then the treated sample should have a blue tint to it. Is it blue? If it is not blue, something is wrong and I would hold off on the Rowa or lanthanum until you are certain about a reading.
Ye once I shake it it’s blue, blue enough to not need to hold it to a white background tbh will defiantly be trying a new batch of reagent first but pretty sure I’m gonna get the same results. Hopefully can get some advice on safely lowering the phosphate in my tank ok this same thread will be getting lfs to test as well but Hanna has got to be the most accurate
 
I also trust the Hanna meters. As far as lowering the PO4 levels go, there's no need to do anything drastic as long as things are looking alright. I've been using a lanthanum chlodride based product (Brightwell's Phosphat-E) and have really been liking it. I was in a similar position and have been able to slowly work the levels down over a period of 6 weeks. In my case, I started noticing some cyano and hadn't been testing PO all that often. Everything else was fine and I didn't want to screw anything up so I did it slowly by upping my water change volume and dosing the lanthanum chloride with great success.
 
I also trust the Hanna meters. As far as lowering the PO4 levels go, there's no need to do anything drastic as long as things are looking alright. I've been using a lanthanum chlodride based product (Brightwell's Phosphat-E) and have really been liking it. I was in a similar position and have been able to slowly work the levels down over a period of 6 weeks. In my case, I started noticing some cyano and hadn't been testing PO all that often. Everything else was fine and I didn't want to screw anything up so I did it slowly by upping my water change volume and dosing the lanthanum chloride with great success.
Is this something you continually see or now you’ve reached your target are you able to keep it in range
 

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