Hard time

jpontier212

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I lost my Kole tang last week. I lost my purple dottyback 2 days ago, last night i lost my striped goby and today i get home and my maroon clownfish has a white mucusy powdery look to him and so does my coral beauty. As fast as it happened it should've made sense but i believe brook is the culprit. I'm having a hard time catching the inhabitants of the Aquarium. Is there anything i can put in the tank that wont harm my coral or am i going to have to remove all 50lbs of rock outta my tank and catch them all? My other option would be to take out my frags and which would probably be easier and treat all the fish in the Dp, while thefrags are in my QT? @Humblefish @melypr1985
 
Depends on what you treat with might not get it out of display and rocks then whenever you add coral it might always die cause tank is contaminated
 
I'm sorry for ur losses brother I truly am. I'm almost in the same predicament as u. And I wanted to treat the display tank with hypo and put my frags in qt. it's easier to catch a frag then a fish. But seeing that copper has been the only thing that has made my Kole tang look better im going to go scuba diving to get my fish out of the display tank and treat them in qt. I wish nothing but the best for u in whatever u choose to do. But I would recommend going the qt route.
 
I just put the clown, the coral beauty and the engineer goby in the QT and have prazi pro and metronidazole in the QT. Should i do cupramine instead? Does copper work on brook?
 
Why not use a fish trap? I have had success with an inverted water bottle and pellets. There are a number of options for larger fish.. Thats how I got a killer out of my tank. If your tank/fish are larger then up it to a 2L clear soda bottle.
 
My engineer goby is covered in slime and barely moving. Should i fresh water dip him and see if it helps?
 
copper does not work on brook. You'll need acriflavin which can be found in ruby reef rally. I've combined ruby reef rally and metroplex which is an alternative treatment for brook. You'll treat them, then transfer to a sterile QT to prevent reinfection.
 
Brooklynella:

Symptoms – This is most often seen in clownfish, but it can afflict any fish. The fish’s skin will appear to be peeling or sloughing off, oftentimes causing excessive white mucous to form around the affected area(s).

Treatment options - Formalin or acriflavine bath, followed by additional baths (as needed - but give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths). You can use formalin in a QT (at a much lower concentration than the bath), but great care must be taken to provide plenty of gas exchange as formalin will quickly deplete the water of oxygen. For this reason, doing baths is the safer option as the fish can be pulled from the formalin if showing signs of distress. Acriflavine is probably the better option for in-tank QT use.

The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS (preferred), Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus.

Acriflavine can be found in Acriflavine-MS (preferred) and Ruby Reef Rally.

Metronidazole (exs. Seachem MetroPlex, Metro-MS, Hikari Metro+) is considered an alternative treatment for brook. A freshwater dip may provide temporary relief if you are unable to locate any of the aforementioned medications right away. Some even claim total eradication of the disease is possible just by performing multiple FW dips on the fish. o_O
 
Brooklynella:

Symptoms – This is most often seen in clownfish, but it can afflict any fish. The fish’s skin will appear to be peeling or sloughing off, oftentimes causing excessive white mucous to form around the affected area(s).

Treatment options - Formalin or acriflavine bath, followed by additional baths (as needed - but give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths). You can use formalin in a QT (at a much lower concentration than the bath), but great care must be taken to provide plenty of gas exchange as formalin will quickly deplete the water of oxygen. For this reason, doing baths is the safer option as the fish can be pulled from the formalin if showing signs of distress. Acriflavine is probably the better option for in-tank QT use.

The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS (preferred), Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus.

Acriflavine can be found in Acriflavine-MS (preferred) and Ruby Reef Rally.

Metronidazole (exs. Seachem MetroPlex, Metro-MS, Hikari Metro+) is considered an alternative treatment for brook. A freshwater dip may provide temporary relief if you are unable to locate any of the aforementioned medications right away. Some even claim total eradication of the disease is possible just by performing multiple FW dips on the fish. o_O
I've got metronidazole. I'm treating with that and prazi pro. The coral beauty has left behind massive stringy poop
 
well the engineer goby didn't make it. I fresh water dipped the Maroon clownfish and the coral beauty. They look so much better than when they went in
 
Another question, Do i need to leave the tank fallow for any specified time or no?
 
Sorry for ur loss again. I hope u don't get discouraged. Get those last fishies back to health. And I could be wrong about this answer but I'm kinda going thru the same thing and I was told 76 days which seems like an eternity but in the long run its well worth it so we won't have to go thru the same thing again down the road. Keep ur head up
Justin
 
Another question, Do i need to leave the tank fallow for any specified time or no?

I believe it's 6 weeks for brook, but yes 76 days to cover the other parasites that may be possible as well. Might as well go the full monty just to be safe.
 
Thanks guys. Super bummed out but i guess since i can't have fish for now in my DP, time to get my Coral game strong.
 
I believe it's 6 weeks for brook, but yes 76 days to cover the other parasites that may be possible as well. Might as well go the full monty just to be safe.
Can a UV sterilizer and massive water changes speed the process?
 
Can a UV sterilizer and massive water changes speed the process?

I wouldn't feel safe doing that. UV is a good tool to help live with a parasite, but not eradicate it completely from the tank. The problem is this
Like many other protozoan parasites, Brooklynella has a two-part life cycle that includes a free-swimming stage and a feeding stage. However, the feeding stage is unusual in that the parasites are able to multiply asexually through binary fission. Once established on a host aquarium fish, Brooklynella populations can increase extremely rapidly, which is why prompt diagnosis and treatment of the fish is so important.

So even if the UV and water changes miss just one, it can still multiply all by its little self. Trying to speed things up is almost never a good idea in this hobby. Nothing good happens fast here... if it was fast, it made you cry and hurt your wallet.
 
I wouldn't feel safe doing that. UV is a good tool to help live with a parasite, but not eradicate it completely from the tank. The problem is this


So even if the UV and water changes miss just one, it can still multiply all by its little self. Trying to speed things up is almost never a good idea in this hobby. Nothing good happens fast here... if it was fast, it made you cry and hurt your wallet.
I gotcha. You're right. I'm concerned about having the coral beauty, the maroon clownfish and 2 yellow damsels all in a 10g QT. I believe its too small of a space for 76 days. I have a 75g that i was going to wait until after August to set up with my existing rock,sand and equipment but i would have to start from scratch with new sand and rock and Everything else right? New cycle and all
 
I gotcha. You're right. I'm concerned about having the coral beauty, the maroon clownfish and 2 yellow damsels all in a 10g QT. I believe its too small of a space for 76 days. I have a 75g that i was going to wait until after August to set up with my existing rock,sand and equipment but i would have to start from scratch with new sand and rock and Everything else right? New cycle and all

Actually no. you can use everything in your current display to set up the new tank... you just have to let it sit without fish for the full 76 days start to finish. So if you leave your current tank fallow for 30 days, then set up the new tank with all the stuff from the old tank you'd still have to let that tank cycle and what not, but no matter what you still have 46 more days of a fallow period to run through. Luckily, your cycle -no matter how short- will take up some of that time :) This is a great time to upgrade!
 

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