Heaters

[BeanAnimal]

OK, so based on your back ground, knowledge and experience, in your opinion, what would be your specific choice/choices for heater/heaters and controller combo?

You stated a controller earlier but that was in comparison to the Inkbird unit. What would be your choices if you were building a new tank right now?

For a basic setup I prefer the Ranco ETC or similar industrial controllers with titanium thermostatless heaters.
They use mechanical power relays for output switching. The drawback being the +/- 1 degree hysteresis.

I don't care for the inkbird, but it is certainly better than most other "hobby" options and always better than using the on-board type thermostat or "hobby" heaters with external controllers that look "commercial" but are just cheap aquarium junk.

The Helios units are very interesting given they way they operate. They (in theory) can't overheat the tank. That said, I am not sure about the supporting circuit topology and how robust it is. It could certainly fail OFF and allow the tank to get too cold.

As for resistance heaters 2-4 smaller heaters are better than 1 larger heater.
Never submerge heaters - they are in the intake of the sump where they water level is always constant. The element in a resistive heater can reach 800F - That is why it is so important that the envelope remains submerged and the head never allowed to leak.

 

[fodsod]

For a basic setup I prefer the Ranco ETC or similar industrial controllers with titanium thermostatless heaters.
They use mechanical power relays for output switching. The drawback being the +/- 1 degree hysteresis.

I don't care for the inkbird, but it is certainly better than most other "hobby" options and always better than using the on-board type thermostat or "hobby" heaters with external controllers that look "commercial" but are just cheap aquarium junk.

The Helios units are very interesting given they way they operate. They (in theory) can't overheat the tank. That said, I am not sure about the supporting circuit topology and how robust it is. It could certainly fail OFF and allow the tank to get too cold.

As for resistance heaters 2-4 smaller heaters are better than 1 larger heater.
Never submerge heaters - they are in the intake of the sump where they water level is always constant. The element in a resistive heater can reach 800F - That is why it is so important that the envelope remains submerged and the head never allowed to leak.

Is there a brand of non thermostat titanium heater you prefer or use?

I'm curious, you've stated several times that one should not submerge the heater head (even on advertised submersible heaters?). This is approach is completely adverse to every aquarium I've ever seen anywhere regardless of brand. If it's submersible then I've never seen anyone not do so. Even the manufactures advise to place the submersible heaters completely underwater. Is there a reason, in your opinion this is advised if it increases failure rates?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Is there a brand of non thermostat titanium heater you prefer or use?

I'm curious, you've stated several times that one should not submerge the heater head (even on advertised submersible heaters?). This is approach is completely adverse to every aquarium I've ever seen anywhere regardless of brand. If it's submersible then I've never seen anyone not do so. Even the manufactures advise to place the submersible heaters completely underwater. Is there a reason, in your opinion this is advised if it increases failure rates?

-They advise submerging them because if you hang one on the side in the wrong place, it will expose the hot envelope...

-The path of least resistance when writing instructions wins.

-Heaters are treated as disposable to an extent and they have no qualms selling you a new one every year or two, especially when everyone knows that they fail regularly.

You are correct I would assume 99% or more of aquarists just drop them in the sump. Ignorance is bliss

As I mentioned above. Resistive heating elements approach 800F and the thermal cycling of the dissimilar materials is significant. Water usually finds its way in. Even a few drops over months can end up eventually creating enough steam to pop the cork

 

[n2585722]

My JBJ 65 currently has a Fluval 150w heater. It's pretty terrible. It'll hold 77.7F for a week and then it'll struggle to hold it at 76. I'll turn it up 1 notch and now it's frying the tank at 80 degrees. I have an inkbird which is regulating it between 77 and 78. I'd like to eliminate that high low temp swing.

Will an Eheim Jaeger be able to hold the temp a little more steady? I'm thinking of going to a 200w.

Thoughts?

Have you thought of using two 100 watt heaters that have their own thermostats that you can set about 3 degrees higher than what you set your controller at. It looks like you may have an Apex if it is like my Hydros you can set it for a lower hysteresis'. The Hydros is .2 degrees. My cooling fans are set to come on at 78.1 and go off at 77.9. My first heater is set to come on at 77.4 and go off at 77.6. My second heater is set to come on at 77.3 and go off at 77.6. That seems to keep the tank at a stable temp between 77.5 and 78. I am not sure how close the Apex can get but I would imagine it would be a lot closer than 1 degree.

 

[Dr4gula.f32]

Have you thought of using two 100 watt heaters that have their own thermostats that you can set about 3 degrees higher than what you set your controller at. It looks like you may have an Apex if it is like my Hydros you can set it for a lower hysteresis'. The Hydros is .2 degrees. My cooling fans are set to come on at 78.1 and go off at 77.9. My first heater is set to come on at 77.4 and go off at 77.6. My second heater is set to come on at 77.3 and go off at 77.6. That seems to keep the tank at a stable temp between 77.5 and 78. I am not sure how close the Apex can get but I would imagine it would be a lot closer than 1 degree.

I have read in a few places to NOT use the Apex to do this, as it will significantly wear out the contactor inside the energy bar. I appreciate your input though.

 

[n2585722]

I have read in a few places to NOT use the Apex to do this, as it will significantly wear out the contactor inside the energy bar. I appreciate your input though.

A 100 watt heater only draws 833ma of current so the current should not be an issue. When you get into the high wattage heater it may be an issue. Even then it would depend on the quality of the relay in use.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I have read in a few places to NOT use the Apex to do this, as it will significantly wear out the contactor inside the energy bar. I appreciate your input though.

I would hope not, but if that is the case, more Evidence that they are junk.