help choosing a phosphate and nitrate test kit

[mta_morrow]

So, I want to purchase an accurate and easy to perform test for phosphates and nitrates.

I currently use an API for these as well as Ph. Worked for me fine for 2 1/2 years on my first tank which was zoa's and softies.

With my new tank / build, It's going to be a mixed reef, so its a bit more important to me now.

I'm not into chasing numbers, but I do want accuracy.

I used Red Sea for the big 3, but I'm hoping for something a bit simpler than that.

I don't mind if its 2 different brands either.

Thanks all!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I don't have a nitrate kit preference, but if I were getting a phosphate test, I'd get the Hanna ULR (HI736).

 

[mta_morrow]

I don't have a nitrate kit preference, but if I were getting a phosphate test, I'd get the Hanna ULR (HI736).

Thank you.

I will heed your advice on the phosphate test kit.

Since you don't have a preference on nitrate, can I have your opinion on which one is quicker / simpler to use?

 

[lbacha]

Hanna for Phosphate and nyos for nitrate. Both are easy to use and read

 

[Jerett83]

I use a Hanna URL for phosphates and Salifert for Nitrates. I have zero complaints with either. I looked into both RedSea and Salifert when I replaced my nitrate kit and went with the Salifert for ease of use.

 

[mta_morrow]

Hanna for Phosphate and nyos for nitrate. Both are easy to use and read

Thanks Ibacha

I use a Hanna URL for phosphates and Salifert for Nitrates. I have zero complaints with either. I looked into both RedSea and Salifert when I replaced my nitrate kit and went with the Salifert for ease of use.

Thanks Jerett83


Sounds like Hanna is tops for phosphates, and a matter of preference for nitrates.

 

[Reef Jeff]

Red Sea for Nitrates and Hanna ULR for Phosphates. Just be aware these are hobby kits and although they are better than many they still have issues. For example, you can run the Hanna Phosphate ULR with two samples taken from the tank at the same time and get 5 ppb on one test and 11 ppb on the second even with meticulously following instructions, making sure you reset the device to zero with each sample curvette, and making sure the sample is clear of bubbles and debris and all finger prints wiped off. The Red Sea Phosphate Test is very good in terms of consistency between two back to back tests, but always reads higher that Hanna ULR after making the conversion of ppb P to ppm PO4. Guess it’s better than no tests.

 

[PatW]

I use Red Sea Pro for nitrates. It has a very low detectable limit of .25 ppm.

For phosphates, I have good results with Hanna ULR. It goes into ppb.

It seems that everyone agrees on Hanna ULR. There seems to be a variety of nitrate tests employed.

 

[lbacha]

I use Red Sea Pro for nitrates. It has a very low detectable limit of .25 ppm.

For phosphates, I have good results with Hanna ULR. It goes into ppb.

It seems that everyone agrees on Hanna ULR. There seems to be a variety of nitrate tests employed.

Pat

I have the Red Sea nitrate kit that comes in their basic set. It's really hard to tell colors does the pro make it any easier?

The basic test kit is fine for knowing if my nitrates are detectable or if they are getting high but the exact number is pretty much a guess (the pink all kinda looks the same)

Len

 

[Gareth elliott]

I use salifert for nitrate. As with all of saliferts color charts not the easiest to discern color changes. At least imo. But get similar results when used in the same lighting from test to test.

 

[ReefAddiction34]

Red Sea algae control test kit is pretty sweet. Has both nitrate and phosphate and a great color wheel that makes reading the results pretty easy.

 

[PatW]

The Red Sea Pro handles the range from .25 ppm to 4 ppm. The test calls for 16ml. You look down to see the color. If you are dealing with higher ranges you just use 8 ml of sample and 8 ml of RODI and multiply by two. Or even higher with more dilution like 1 to 15.

 

[Pmj]

Salifrt nitrate, Hanna URL po4. Didn't like Red Sea in any test kit imo.

 

[Lazys Coral House]

Red Sea for Nitrates and Hanna ULR for Phosphates. Just be aware these are hobby kits and although they are better than many they still have issues. For example, you can run the Hanna Phosphate ULR with two samples taken from the tank at the same time and get 5 ppb on one test and 11 ppb on the second

That is parts per billion. 5 vs 11 is insanely consistent.

 

[lbacha]

That is parts per billion. 5 vs 11 is insanely consistent.

5 vs 11 ppb is .02-.03 ppm so pretty close

 

[mta_morrow]

That is parts per billion. 5 vs 11 is insanely consistent.

Thanks. Hi Brian!

 

[Reef Jeff]

That is parts per billion. 5 vs 11 is insanely consistent.

5 vs 11 ppb is .02-.03 ppm so pretty close

I do agree that it is better than any other test out there and I do use the test for that reason. I disagree that it is insanely consistent...its not. It is pretty close, but not close enough. When you are trying to maintain ultra low phosphate levels or even low targets, it is inadequate. I get it...its a hobby test kit and only costs $49, but let's call a fish a fish. Truth is, it is better than what was available when I started reefing, but it is still inadequate for scenario's where accurate PO4 measurement is needed (i.e., ULNS, and even the recommended PO4 targets like .02-.03 ppm).

For example:
If your target is .01-.02 ppm PO4 which translates to 3 - 7 ppb P and two tests run side by side are off by 6 ppb, as I have found repeatably with the test, then you still have a lot of room for error based on the result of the test. If you get a result of 3 ppb, and it can be off by 6 ppb in either direction, it could actually be 0 - 9 ppb of P which is 0 - .028 ppm of PO4. If it is 0 ppm, that's problematic for its own reasons, plus you are below target. If it is .028 ppm you are over your target. The intervention for zero is to feed more or dose PO4. The intervention for .028 is to export more or feed less. The test cannot provide enough information to really know what to do, so to be sure of the correct intervention you have to wait and test for several days to see the trend and then intervene accordingly. By then you can be days into a 0 reading or days into a higher reading.

Similarly, if your target is the widely recommended .02 - .03 ppm PO4, this translates to 7 - 10 ppb of P. Let's assume the test comes out to 7 ppb (.021 ppm of PO4). You think, "Great, I'm right on target". However, since that can be off by 6 ppb in either direction, this means you are at somewhere between 1 - 13 ppb which translates to .003 ppm PO4 (below target) to .040 ppm PO4 (above target). This is not insanely close or even pretty close.

Again, not knocking Hanna or their test. Just pointing out that accuracy remains pervasive, even with this test. People rely on these numbers with too much confidence and it can get you into trouble if you are not aware of this issue.

 

[Lazys Coral House]

Well to be perfectly honest, in my humble opinion, of course without offending anyone who thinks differently from my point of view, but also by looking into this matter in a different perspective and without condemning of one's view's and by trying to make it objectified, and by considering each and every one's valid opinion, I honestly believe that I completely forgot what I was going to say.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I agree that better accuracy at the low end is still needed.

 

[Reef Jeff]

Well to be perfectly honest, in my humble opinion, of course without offending anyone who thinks differently from my point of view, but also by looking into this matter in a different perspective and without condemning of one's view's and by trying to make it objectified, and by considering each and every one's valid opinion, I honestly believe that I completely forgot what I was going to say.

Lol...I like that. Wasn’t trying to be adversarial. I just find PO4 levels to cause issues and keeping them under control is important. Testing results remain a frustrating part of this hobby.