Help choosing ro/di

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Be102

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I currently have a marine depot 4 stage Rodi that has the brs upgrade kit ( flush valve and tds meter.)

Instead of buying all new filters I figured I would just buy a new brs Rodi and need help to chose

I was planning on a 4 stage as I have decent city water where I am and was looking at getting a larger gpd model to help limit my waste water production ( if this is even worth it in the long run)

I typically make 40 gallons of ro at a time and figured I would get the 200gpd model that has the upgrades ( tds meter and flush kit)

Can someone explain to me the difference between rejection rates? Brs grid says the 200gpd has a lower rejection rate but still has a 1.5:1 ration of waste water whilst the 150gpd has a 99 rejection rate..

What would be more worth it? For $20 would I be smarter getting the 200gpd model?
 
Choosing which model and how many gallons per day really depends on how far in advance you plan your water changes and how much you plan on changing.
Are you really going to need 150-200 gallons of water on a days notice?

I would look more at a water saving model/rate than overall gpd model.

I use a 100 gallon gpd that was a 5 stage originally, but went with a 3 stage di system.
With water temps in the winter and a pressure pump I get about 65-70 gallons per day, which is more than enough for a water change on my 233.
 
Choosing which model and how many gallons per day really depends on how far in advance you plan your water changes and how much you plan on changing.
Are you really going to need 150-200 gallons of water on a days notice?

I would look more at a water saving model/rate than overall gpd model.

I use a 100 gallon gpd that was a 5 stage originally, but went with a 3 stage di system.
With water temps in the winter and a pressure pump I get about 65-70 gallons per day, which is more than enough for a water change on my 233.

It’s less about the size of the production but if I understand correctly if I got a larger gpd system I would be producing less waste water daily.
I wouldn’t really need a huge amount of water honestly but I figured if I bought the 200 gpd system and ran it for 2 and a half hours I’d have 20+ gallons of water which would be sufficient for me rather than currently running mine for I’d say 5+ hours at a time now

like I said for less than $100 extra bucks I’d rather invest that now and save $$ on water and whatnot in the long run... unless I don’t understand how it works correctly..

I do not know if I would want a 150gpd or 200gpd as I don’t understand how the flow restrictor thing works
 
I will second the good spectrapure filters. Maybe add a second di if you don't have one. I'd call them after sending them an email with your city tap water report, they will help you choose the best options. I went with their 180 gpd mega Max cap/enduro unit plus added the .2 micron pre filters and order 3 extra sets of filters. I'm remote and on well. I have not had to replace any filters in 6+ months. I do have to degas before the fi stage. Water is still 0 TDS after RO membrane and zero between di stages. Could not be happier. It's saved me a few hundred so far, so it's pretty much paid for itself.
 
It’s less about the size of the production but if I understand correctly if I got a larger gpd system I would be producing less waste water daily.
I wouldn’t really need a huge amount of water honestly

Sounds like you are more concerned with efficiency over volume.
Spectrapure seems to have the most efficient membranes, but then I believe BRS still has water saver units.
Double membrane units, etc.

My rodi was originally from melvesreef. I added a spectrapure membrane and went with the triple di resin at the end.
 
Sounds like you are more concerned with efficiency over volume.
Spectrapure seems to have the most efficient membranes, but then I believe BRS still has water saver units.
Double membrane units, etc.

My rodi was originally from melvesreef. I added a spectrapure membrane and went with the triple di resin at the end.
I’ll take a look and check them out.. I just liked brs because it’s simple enough lol I do think they do use similar sized canisters and whatnot
 
Rejection rate is how much bad stuff gets through the filter. It has nothing to do with waste water.
The 1.5:1 ratio of waste water to product means the same amount goes down the drain. So you make 40 gallons 60 goes down the drain in both cases. 1.5 to 1 seems very good. I thought most ran at 4:1.
 
The way the BRS water savers work is by running the 80% waste water into a second membrane that also has a 4:1 rejection to good ratio. So if you ran say 1000g of tap water in, the first membrane would give you 200g of RO and reject 800g which then the second membrane pulls another 160g of RO water out of. So 1000g in gives you 360g of RO and 640g goes down the drain. About 1.8:1 Ideally.
 
+1 on no need to buy a new unit. You can do whatever upgrade/change to you current one.
My "base" unit is a whirlpool brand 4 stage intended for drinking water only, and over the years I have been adding more options and upgrades.
My last upgrade (waiting to be installed) is a second membrane for more water production and less water rejection.
 
+1 on no need to buy a new unit. You can do whatever upgrade/change to you current one.
My "base" unit is a whirlpool brand 4 stage intended for drinking water only, and over the years I have been adding more options and upgrades.
My last upgrade (waiting to be installed) is a second membrane for more water production and less water rejection.
The only reason I really want a new one is because I am unsure about the flow restrictor I have inside of my Rodi. I currently have the marine depot 4 stage and I figured instead of buying a bunch of additive parts to just get the brs one .
if not the one I have will need new filters, new ro membrane,

shutoff Kit

doesn’t sound like
Much but I figured for another $100 I get the setup from brs with everything needed and whatnot.
Sounds silly I know and I will most likely be fine with my current setup.. just saving myself from headaches and problem solving with my rodi
 
That is true, if you plan to upgrade it in just one shot, it will be expensive. If this unit includes most of what you are looking for and is cost wise, then go for it.
You can always sell the first unit or use it for another purposes, included drinking. ;)
 
That is true, if you plan to upgrade it in just one shot, it will be expensive. If this unit includes most of what you are looking for and is cost wise, then go for it.
You can always sell the first unit or use it for another purposes, included drinking. ;)
What’s the preferred filter setup for drinking water?
I don’t have bad water pre Rodi I’m thinking like 100> tds I think that’s why my filters lasted so long too!
 
For drinking I use only RO water and a pressurized tank to feed fridge and a faucet.
For reefing I use the DI stage.
In my house I can use same unit for both purposes, but in many cases is not possible, so a second unit may be needed.
 
Sounds silly I know and I will most likely be fine with my current setup.. just saving myself from headaches and problem solving with my rodi


Sounds like your best bet would be to call BRS and talk to them on the phone.
Ask to speak with someone who is familiar with all of the ro/di systems and which would work best for you.
Take notes and think about what is said and then make the choice.

If you don't get the answers you feel are what you are looking for, maybe try Buckeye Hydo, or Spectrapure.
 
I have a 75 gpd BRS system. Since my RODI storage is a 44 gallon Brute trash can, it does not make sense to go with a higher capacity system. Even if I stored water in 2 cans, my Current system would Fill up 88 gallons fast enough.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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