I use an 800 barrel for my system. Has 2ea 150gpd membranes. It was a 75gpd 5 stage unit. I aded the water saver kit. Decided I wanted water faster so I got 2ea 150gpd membranes.
Help choosing ro/di
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Be102
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Wait does that mean you make 300 gpd??!
you confused me with the 800 barrel. You still use one barrel flow restrictor right?
So
it’s like
sediment carbon carbon di and 2 150 gpd ro membranes?
Wow interesting.. I thought the membrane size only went up to 100 as the 150gpd water saver is 2 75ro right? And then the 200 is 2 100gpd?
So here is my system in order; water goes to
Solenoid (so I can control water on / off with my apex )
Booster pump (my house has low pressure) this can also be on / off with my apex
1 sediment - 1 micron 2.5"x10" (std size canisters)
1 sediment - same as above
1 carbon - .5 micron
1 ro membrane 150 gpd that the waste water exits into the next membrane ( water saver option)
1 ro membrane 150 gpd
800 ml restrictor and flush valve on waste water exit of the above ro membrane
Then the water goes to 3 DI resin canisters.
I can make 65 gallons pretty fast for water changes. I dont think it makes 300 gallons a day. Prob more like 150 to 180 in reality. Never measured it. Depends on water pressure, age of membrane, TDS....ect...
I use the water saver option because im on rain water collection for my house. If no rain then no water, no shower..ect. Every drop counts.
What they say is "150gpd water saver" is not really true, but it sounds like it should be.
It also refills my ATO container with 5 gallons everyday via the apex. Thats about what my tank loses in a day.
Rain water is about 15 to 30 TDS depending on the time of year.
The reason I run 3 di resins is if I run out of rain water and have to have 2000 gallons delivered it will be treated well water and burn thru my resin in a flash.
Hope this helps.
Solenoid (so I can control water on / off with my apex )
Booster pump (my house has low pressure) this can also be on / off with my apex
1 sediment - 1 micron 2.5"x10" (std size canisters)
1 sediment - same as above
1 carbon - .5 micron
1 ro membrane 150 gpd that the waste water exits into the next membrane ( water saver option)
1 ro membrane 150 gpd
800 ml restrictor and flush valve on waste water exit of the above ro membrane
Then the water goes to 3 DI resin canisters.
I can make 65 gallons pretty fast for water changes. I dont think it makes 300 gallons a day. Prob more like 150 to 180 in reality. Never measured it. Depends on water pressure, age of membrane, TDS....ect...
I use the water saver option because im on rain water collection for my house. If no rain then no water, no shower..ect. Every drop counts.
What they say is "150gpd water saver" is not really true, but it sounds like it should be.
It also refills my ATO container with 5 gallons everyday via the apex. Thats about what my tank loses in a day.
Rain water is about 15 to 30 TDS depending on the time of year.
The reason I run 3 di resins is if I run out of rain water and have to have 2000 gallons delivered it will be treated well water and burn thru my resin in a flash.
Hope this helps.
Last edited:
Bra says to shoot for 75lbs if pressure so a booster pump on a 75gpd filter would produce more than that wouldn’t it. So doesn’t getting a booster pump make a better option than adding another membrane or the water saver kit?
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Be102
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Never mind!!! Didn’t realize I was wrong and membranes come in 150... lol ignore my last post..
Still trying to figure everything else tho. I currently have about idk say 90 total water volume so an extreme amount of water isn’t necessary... just something I feel if I can spend an extra $10 or $20 here in the long run and it pays off
MTBake
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Good advice above. I would just replace your filters versus buying a whole new unit. And then add what you need/want as far tds meters and auto shut offs.
I assembled this over the years. Kept adding to my original 4 stage unit over the years. Works great for what I need.
The ro line goes to the pressure tank and then to my fridge and a faucet at the sink. The di line is for my tanks.
I also highly recommend going through Russ @Buckeye Hydro. He really knows his stuff about water purification. He can answer any questions and explain why some systems work better than others. I have never been let down by his advice over the years. My original 4 stage system came from him before he changed the company name to Buckeye Hydro
And it's still in use.
I assembled this over the years. Kept adding to my original 4 stage unit over the years. Works great for what I need.
The ro line goes to the pressure tank and then to my fridge and a faucet at the sink. The di line is for my tanks.
I also highly recommend going through Russ @Buckeye Hydro. He really knows his stuff about water purification. He can answer any questions and explain why some systems work better than others. I have never been let down by his advice over the years. My original 4 stage system came from him before he changed the company name to Buckeye Hydro
And it's still in use.
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Be102
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That does look very interesting and proves I do not need to upgrade!Good advice above. I would just replace your filters versus buying a whole new unit. And then add what you need/want as far tds meters and auto shut offs.
I assembled this over the years. Kept adding to my original 4 stage unit over the years. Works great for what I need.
The ro line goes to the pressure tank and then to my fridge and a faucet at the sink. The di line is for my tanks.
I also highly recommend going through Russ @Buckeye Hydro. He really knows his stuff about water purification. He can answer any questions and explain why some systems work better than others. I have never been let down by his advice over the years. My original 4 stage system came from him before he changed the company name to Buckeye Hydro
