Help Cyano won’t leave me alone

[Piscean_Introvert]

So I’ve been in the hobby now since September 2020. I started an expensive hobby during the beginning of a pandemic with a canister filter and basic essentials to start me off. Ive always had sand in it.

Fast forward to today and I’ve upgraded tanks to include a sump still with the same sand and the same Cyano.

its a 90g with a 20 gallon sump with a skimmer and running carbon.

I’ve always had high nitrates and phosphates even after dosing adding chaeto changing to filter socks (200 micron). And I’m thinking that my sand wasn’t cleaned properly I read at the time to wash the same of not and considering it was dry sand that I seeded with bacteria I didn’t and I’m thinking that’s where I’m running into issues with the sand leaching the nitrates and phosphates.

as of tonight

nitrates are 38 Hanna checker
Phosphates are .33 Hanna checker

if so can I do a large water change, and remove as much sand as possible (most likely all) and cleaning it with the waste water from the water change and reseed with bacteria to help with any that maybe have been killed off during the cleaning. I have plenty of Rock in the display and the sump as well to house bacteria. And I’d only be removing the sand.

thoughts, help, someone who doesn’t want to give up.

 

[maleks.reef]

Well you said it yourself, those high nitrates and phosphates are definitely the reason behind your cyano. Dead zones or very low flow is another reason. Increased nutrients is either because of very high import or very low export, and only you know which is it for your tank. That being said id bet that you are over feeding. I suggest feeding less, with frozen if possible, 20% WC to decrease nutrients and siphon out cyano. If flow is sluggish or slow, then increase the coverage and/or intensity of flow. If you bacteria laying around, like MB7 or so, then definitely use it as well. Lastly, i suggest you get a whole bunch of clean up crew members, specifically nassarius snails to keep moving your sand and maybe a sand sifting star if you have space for one.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Can you post pic under white lighting ? Not really seeing cyano and while elevated phos and no3 can be a cause, other causes will be:

- Not Enough Air Bubbles: Typically, a protein skimmer fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Too Much Reef Food: Overstocking / overfeeding your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Premature Live Rocks :Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which becomes a breeding ground for red slime algae
- Infrequent Water Changes: If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes will dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Poor water Source: Using water source which contains nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out a welcome mat for cyano
- Slow running water will run Red: Inadequate water flow is one leading cause of cyano blooms as slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for red slime algae development

 

[Lavey29]

Since nitrate and phosphate preferred ratio is 10 to 1 at least you have that working for you. Your numbers are elevated but not drastically high. Dose PNS probio which is a natural bacteria supplement that reduces nitrates and will clean your sandbed up. Run a small bag of phosguard in your sump. It will walk your phosphate down slowly so no drastic changes. As others mentioned, water changes and moderate feeding. No pellets or flakes.

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

All whites

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

I feed about half and ounce a day. Lol I’ve started measuring out my frozen food to be more consistent with the feeding. However looking at my tang everyone is well fed and not missing any meals.

 

[maleks.reef]

Your cyano is very very mild so you got no reason to worry. Try to stick with the tips i gave you and see how it goes.

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

Thank you all I’ve had to tear it down once before due to cladophoropsis so am on high alert.

 

[dthom]

I may have missed it, but
- How often are you doing water changes?
- What percent of the water are you changing?
- Are you using RO filtered water for water changes and for topping off the tank?

Your numbers are not far off and you are getting close, so don't get discouraged.
You would be surprised how long it can takes for a reef tank to get truly established (years).

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

I’ve been doing 20% every two weeks. And yes I have an RODI filter installed in my house for water changes and topping off the tank. I recently ordered some PNS ProBio to help with biodiversity.

 

[sixty_reefer]

All whites

It doesn’t look like Cyanobacteria, can you do a close up under whites?

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

It doesn’t look like Cyanobacteria, can you do a close up under whites?

 

[sixty_reefer]

It seems a mixture of different things, or the mats are not fully formed, could I ask you for some information to try and work out what’s making them thriving? You mentioned that no3 and po4 is always high but have you noticed if they’re stable or slightly raising?

 

[mikeytrw]

A cheap $30-$50 microscope will really help you here. Cyano is very easy to identify and tbh those close up pictures kinda look like dinos or diatoms to me, with maybe some cyano on top.

At least then you'll know what you're dealing with and can make a plan of action based on that. Otherwise you're just guessing imo.

Buying a microscope has made me think that they really are kind of essential equipment in this hobby, people will probably disagree with me on that, particularly as it will scare newcomers off but honestly I'm only into the hobby for 6 months and I've been dealing with cyano and dinos already.

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

It seems a mixture of different things, or the mats are not fully formed, could I ask you for some information to try and work out what’s making them thriving? You mentioned that no3 and po4 is always high but have you noticed if they’re stable or slightly raising?

I’ve been working hard to bring them down they were higher than what was originally posted.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I’ve been working hard to bring them down they were higher than what was originally posted.

What method have you been using to bring them down? Carbon dosing? Water changes?

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

Water changes, adding chaeto and a refugium to my sump. Changing filter socks more frequently

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

Since nitrate and phosphate preferred ratio is 10 to 1 at least you have that working for you. Your numbers are elevated but not drastically high. Dose PNS probio which is a natural bacteria supplement that reduces nitrates and will clean your sandbed up. Run a small bag of phosguard in your sump. It will walk your phosphate down slowly so no drastic changes. As others mentioned, water changes and moderate feeding. No pellets or flakes.

My bottle of PNS ProBio arrives today, I’m excited about adding it to my tank and sump in hopes to bring that additional biodiversity.

 

[dthom]

Nice! I am interested to see the results

 

[Piscean_Introvert]

Ground 0 before introducing PNS ProBio

Day 2 after introducing the product

Day 3
Tested Phosphates: .16ppm; Nitratres ~10ppm

The coral love it and the fish definitely noticed when it was introduced into the tank.

I only used about half the bottle on the initial dosing as I was seeing my sump and refugium. I plan to dose the remaining tonight in the sump (after all they said it’s virtually impossible to overdose the produce seeing as it’s introducing bacteria that both nitrifies and denitrifies)

I also bought the Yellow Sno as a food supplement for the coral and continued addition of the bacteria in the food supplement.

definitely a satisfied customer so far.