Help Hair Algae

[brandon429]

Is it accurate to say you didn't do what we did in that thread? Not once did any example there lift out rocks, scrub with a brush, set them back on dirty sand, then attempt to clean the sand? I'm confused, if those pics prior are the cleaned rocks but we still see algae?

It will make things not work correctly to change up the method we use, it had the order of operations shown for a reason that was meant to help your tank, and each example in the thread clearly shows a completely disassembled reef, with the tank being cleaned out down to the glass

 

[Dburr1014]

OP, I'm going to state the obvious.

Your making a lot of work for yourself doing this "part-time" or half@$$ed.

Ripclean is removing rocks and scrubbing, as you did, but also, remove the sandbed and do a total rinse. Get it all out at once and clean the whole system one time.

I think you have to do it again but taking out the sandbed doesn't take too long. It can even be put back at another time using pvc pipe.

 

[brandon429]

It is 1000% not a rip clean, this is swishing waste around in the tank and then brushing more waste around the rocks


This is the perfect tank for Vette to work back to clean, with no rip cleaning.


Vette how about this deal: you stay and work this thread until the tank is fixed. Stay completely active here until it's fixed using your remote way. Keep posting here for updates if the thread drops down, see it through to no algae, be present the whole time.

You have been wanting to stop some rip cleans in progress to work your way, this is a good one to track for your method.

I'm going to link this post you're in to future posts you make on hair algae, so be sure and fix it don't just cease posting after a while

 

[clownfishlord18]

OP, I'm going to state the obvious.

Your making a lot of work for yourself doing this "part-time" or half@$$ed.

Ripclean is removing rocks and scrubbing, as you did, but also, remove the sandbed and do a total rinse. Get it all out at once and clean the whole system one time.

I think you have to do it again but taking out the sandbed doesn't take too long. It can even be put back at another time using pvc pipe.

I planned on doing in but denied permission by my parents. I might just take out the sand in general and not even put it back.

 

[brandon429]

Hey that's rough, sorry that happened. They don't know they're hurting your reef tank by preventing you from following the thread/ not your fault. The level of cleaning required to win is too scary for some veteran reefers in this thread; its easy to imagine parents firmly saying no as well


That's why this is a perfect thread for Vette to manage fully, he too doesn't want anyone doing rip cleans/ we can now see his method at work.

When a tank gets invaded with algae it's simply more common for people to dig in heels and keep that condition, cleaning it all out just seems too good to be true, despite the examples in the work thread.

 

[brandon429]

Do not take your sand out with the tank still running, full of water. Don't customize any further aspects of the rip clean since you're not allowed to run it fully. You'll mess up the tank further if you continue our cleaning process without doing it correctly

 

[Dburr1014]

Sorry OP, I was only trying to help.
Sounds like your parents don't Really want the tank. You honestly can't fix it without putting in some time and they didn't/won't give you the time. It's a catch 22.

Perhaps now is not the time for you.
Maybe you can dream/plan for your next build when it is your time. 2 years/5 years/10 years from now it will be your time and you will have it all planned out.

I can see it now, it's going to be awesome!

 

[bford]

Been dealing with the same issue. I added the Red Sea roller mat nov 1st, with nitrates around 15-20. A month later my Acans withered away due to nitrates dropping to almost 0. Within that same time GhA starting popping up and got so bad it was covering everything. I ended up using flux rx and and it took awhile to show improvement but I’m on day 12 now and it’s getting much better. I also beefed up my cuc as well. Now I’m starting to ghost feed my sump a few mysis a week to help keep nitrates in the system.

I used Flux Rx as well and had success with it. To help things along, I scrubbed as much algae off the rocks as possible and removed. Then dosed Flux Rx. 2 weeks later tank was essentially cleared of Algae. Of course there are downsides to this and you wind up chasing other issues that result. But, it seems to be a decent way to jump start and realign the balance if other methods or removal aren't working.

 

[brandon429]

It's good to develop non rip clean methods so that large tanks can get help too. The non rip clean methods are the experimental ones Ironically... at least here you can try the alternate ways and fall back on the rip clean if the others don't work


They may be open to it as a last ditch option

 

[clownfishlord18]

Sorry OP, I was only trying to help.
Sounds like your parents don't Really want the tank. You honestly can't fix it without putting in some time and they didn't/won't give you the time. It's a catch 22.

Perhaps now is not the time for you.
Maybe you can dream/plan for your next build when it is your time. 2 years/5 years/10 years from now it will be your time and you will have it all planned out.

I can see it now, it's going to be awesome!

They love the tank and the whole reason I want to do this is because my dad said we could get a bigger tank if I make mine look like the one in the fish store..

 

[vetteguy53081]

It is 1000% not a rip clean, this is swishing waste around in the tank and then brushing more waste around the rocks


This is the perfect tank for Vette to work back to clean, with no rip cleaning.


Vette how about this deal: you stay and work this thread until the tank is fixed. Stay completely active here until it's fixed using your remote way. Keep posting here for updates if the thread drops down, see it through to no algae, be present the whole time.

You have been wanting to stop some rip cleans in progress to work your way, this is a good one to track for your method.

I'm going to link this post you're in to future posts you make on hair algae, so be sure and fix it don't just cease posting after a while

I will not have you tell me what to do EVER- One thing is certain. . . . . . .
People are right- You are Rude and its your way or no way. There is an easy way and a thorough way to do things. Its obvious as Deburr mentioned, OP not willing to do the work required. Knowing this, I gave him an option and you are now trying to tell him what to do.
You apparently did not see this post below I made as your are He*l bent on encouraging every person to tear their tanks apart when you run a flower vase. Ive been quite silent with your insults but you as you do with most people. . . have crossed the line!!
What Erks you is the truth- That not every tank requires a rip clean. Here is my post 2 days ago and note the bold phrases I made in respect and acknowledgement of rip cleaning:

I always have clean tanks and in 40 Years NEVER EVER had to rip my tank apart. To have a simple algae or cyano issue and tear a tank apart so you can go back through the ugly stage and subject tank once again to risk of cyano and dino make absolutely no sense. There is a reason we inherit these conditions and what troubles me is: seldom is the source of the issue which can be corrected discussed, rather it is suggested to tear a tank apart.
Many of these persons have poured their sweat and tears into their tanks especially the larger tanks to be offered a suggestion to tear it apart and start over is troubling.
There are however instances where it is warranted and there are times Ive seen you suggest rip clean and it appeared may be the recourse. There are times Ive disagreed and Never chimed in and contested your recommendation as I respect everyones' opinion but its just not for everyone. Its often an alternative and not a solution and then there are times there is no alternative- it is the solution.

I also see mention of 50 page, 200 page threads mentioned- Is it your work or someone else's recommendations? It needs to be realized when a person makes a thread with an issue and it pertains to their 40g tank as an example, it will apply to a person with a 40, even 50g tank and impractical for a person with a 15g AIO or one like myself with a 400, even 660g tank.
Four years ago my 660g have a dino outbreak (my first and only) and the last thing I was ever going to consider is tearing tank apart. In turn, I fought it the right way and below shows the result.

Dino start:

One week later:

Two months later:

 

[brandon429]

have him read our example thread you were shown

then have him try and search out other threads that show six corrected tanks in one thread, see if this sways his guiding options for your tank fix... show him this actual thread we're posting in for contrast

dad: you're holding up progress that internet nerds can give you. the very thing you're wanting, we can do, but we need the gates of will open v closed.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Phosphates are .03 in the water call, but I tested the water in the same bed and it was above 1. Nitrates are at zero and it is near window maybe gets 2 hours in light I have no white light my tank. I have 10 Caribbean blue like hermit crabs and 6 nassarius snails

Two suspects are apparent. I suspected higher phosphate. This is apparent and needs to be reduced. Reduce amount of food fed and if using TDO pellet foods or reef roids- pull back for a week or two. The window was main suspect based on growth rate and color of algae. Simply grab a piece of black construction paper from Walmart and place it on the side of tank that faces window and you will in a week see a noticeable reduction. The power of UV is very strong and will penetrate shades/blinds/curtains and cause these issues. I found this out the hard way when I had my pet store which the whole front was glass and my FW tanks and pond were suddenly accumulating algae and realized even with tinted glass was the sunlight for 4 hours daily. I placed dark film on the glass and it subsided quickly.
Assuming that you have a sump, add a pouch of chemipure blue or elite which will lower and keep phosphate in check.
I apologize fr the rudeness shown by a certain individual to you but you will get through this. In this hobby at times we cant do the bare minimum to succeed but at the same token you often have to go above and beyond with labor to accomplish what you desire for a saltwater tank

 

[clownfishlord18]

Two suspects are apparent. I suspected higher phosphate. This is apparent and needs to be reduced. Reduce amount of food fed and if using TDO pellet foods or reef roids- pull back for a week or two. The window was main suspect based on growth rate and color of algae. Simply grab a piece of black construction paper from Walmart and place it on the side of tank that faces window and you will in a week see a noticeable reduction. The power of UV is very strong and will penetrate shades/blinds/curtains and cause these issues. I found this out the hard way when I had my pet store which the whole front was glass and my FW tanks and pond were suddenly accumulating algae and realized even with tinted glass was the sunlight for 4 hours daily. I placed dark film on the glass and it subsided quickly.
Assuming that you have a sump, add a pouch of chemipure blue or elite which will lower and keep phosphate in check.
I apologize fr the rudeness shown by a certain individual to you but you will get through this. In this hobby at times we cant do the bare minimum to succeed but at the same token you often have to go above and beyond with labor to accomplish what you desire for a saltwater tank

Thank you for the info and fyi I am willing to put In as much work as necessary.

 

[nuxx Verified Sponsor]

Had a hair algae outbreak once, no idea why...

Ended up getting six fat nudibranch and did the trick in a few days. Never saw the hair algae of the nudibranch every again...

 

[clownfishlord18]

I am

Thank you for the info and fyi I am willing to put In as much work as necessary.

Two suspects are apparent. I suspected higher phosphate. This is apparent and needs to be reduced. Reduce amount of food fed and if using TDO pellet foods or reef roids- pull back for a week or two. The window was main suspect based on growth rate and color of algae. Simply grab a piece of black construction paper from Walmart and place it on the side of tank that faces window and you will in a week see a noticeable reduction. The power of UV is very strong and will penetrate shades/blinds/curtains and cause these issues. I found this out the hard way when I had my pet store which the whole front was glass and my FW tanks and pond were suddenly accumulating algae and realized even with tinted glass was the sunlight for 4 hours daily. I placed dark film on the glass and it subsided quickly.
Assuming that you have a sump, add a pouch of chemipure blue or elite which will lower and keep phosphate in check.
I apologize fr the rudeness shown by a certain individual to you but you will get through this. In this hobby at times we cant do the bare minimum to succeed but at the same token you often have to go above and beyond with labor to accomplish what you desire for a saltwater tank

running chemis pure in my tank it is a aio

 

[ReeferCO]

You’re doing great and don’t get discouraged with all of this.

I was dealing with hair algae myself from some poor tank husbandry through the summer. I treated it in the tank by using a stiff bristled brush to scrub it off the rocks while in the tank. I also completely cleaned out my sump with a shop vac as I was concerned the the extra detritus there was feeding the problem with likely raised phosphate(testing was showing low phosphate but I assume the algae was consuming it). The hair algae has been in check for over two months. I am now noticing some bryopsis algae showing up. I believe the hair algae was out competing the bryopsis previously, or I inadvertently introduced it on a frag plug. The bryopsis is very minimal at this point but I don’t want to allow it to get out of control. It’s much more difficult to remove.

I’m going to give the product flux rx a try to see if that works. I have read about several people having success with it, along with some people not having it work. I’ll let you know how that goes. If that doesn’t work I’ll give the full “rip clean” method a go. I have a 75 gallon full of two large glued together islands and a lot of coral. The rip clean will be last resort for me.

I ran an AIO for over a couple years and when my phosphate would start to rise I would clean out the AIO chambers. I was always amazed at how quickly detritus and “crud” would collect back there. Might be worth checking if you haven’t already.

Again keep up the good work and hang in there! I’m sure we’ll both get it sorted out over time!

 

[reeftankdude]

Walmart distilled water only and a tuxedo sea urchin.