Help hard plumbing media filter

[nim6us]

So I've been hard plumbing my Reefer 425, I got the manifold built, and everything's dropping into place. But I've hit a real road block with my media reactor; Somatic UF-1. The in and out pipes on the reactor are barbs, but the pipe running to the valve on my media reactor is straight.

I've seen tons of hard plumb setups (like the above picture) and it's all straight pipe, there's no barb to hose connections. The only thing I can think of is maybe they're just gluing the coupler pieces around the barbs, or maybe sawing the barbs off? Either way the only way I can see to make the above work is to glue the coupler flush to the top of the reactor.

If this is how it's done, so be it, I'll figure it out. But all the other parts of my build have super tight connections. Either threaded pipe screwing into one another, or straight pipe that slides into the next joint, really solid! But if I just stuck a straight pipe coupler on top of my media reactor and smeared glue around the bottom, it just seems kinds sloppy.

Am I missing something?

 

[xaflatoonx]

Excellent question. I have wondered that too. Broadfield may be able to guide on this. His awesome plumbing is similar to what you wanting to do.

 

[Broadfield]

Can you take a picture of the underside of the reactor lid?

 

[JoshH]

You could cut the barbs off, clean the holes and install bulkheads to hard plumb the reactors. Depending on what's under the lid that is/\

 

[mjlash22]

I've seen a similar reactor before and the barbs were a molded part of the top. If that's the case for your situation, cutting them off would be your best bet and go from there. You could use a small amount of vinyl/silicone tubing to connect to you manifold. You would have to have a barb end on your manifold though.

 

[Steve P]

Not to make it look kludgy, but if you don't have the room to install bulkheads in the cap, maybe you can combo a few fittings. Tubing over the barb, slip x fpt adapter, then mpt x compression adapter over the tubing. ;Nailbiting

 

[nim6us]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

@Broadfield

Here's a picture of the underside of cap...

 

[Steve P]

I'm going to let others with more experience chime in on this one. To me it doesn't appear that the offset barb/hole can accept a bulkhead without obstructing the o-ring.

 

[nim6us]

dang.. maybe need to make my peace with having to run some tubing?

 

[xaflatoonx]

No no. Wait.
I am sure someone can explain.
I also plan to do what you are wanting to.

We need help guys! lol

 

[nim6us]

HahHa! Thanks xaflatoonx... I'll hold on a bit longer. Maybe bump the thread over the weekend when people have some free time.

 

[xaflatoonx]

Yes please. The clean look is worth the wait. Trust me. If you have even an ounce of OCD it will bother you later.

 

[Steve P]

Yes please. The clean look is worth the wait. Trust me. If you have even an ounce of OCD it will bother you later.

Exactly... that's why I cringed to make the suggestion I did.

 

[[Cameron]]

Some reactors come with standard plumbing ports such as the one @Broadfield used. They come with barbed fittings but a person can unscrew those and screw in any standard plumbing fittings of that size. Your lid is molded with the barbs.

Best I can tell you will have to break out the drill or buy another reactor with standard plumbing ports if you want to hard plumb this reactor.

 

[Broadfield]

What size of fittings are you hoping to use with this? I assume smaller than 1/2" since that would be overly large compared to those stock barbed nipples. I say cut the nipples flush and tap out the openings for a 3/8" threaded PVC nipple. You can then convert that to 1/2" if needed. You will need to glue the threaded nipples in place. You will also need to make sure you leave the "cup" in place on the bottom side for the clear hose to mate up to. Another reason why I would use the 3/8" size. But I'm just going by a picture here. You need to make sure that a 3/8" threaded nipple isn't a larger diameter than that "cup". As for the threaded nipple, you can cut down the threads so it doesn't protrude into the reactor lid. This will allow you to bottom it out on the threads so there are not any threads exposed on the outside... it will look better cosmetically. I doubt the reactor lid is very thick, so it will probably only catch a couple of threads anyway. Again though, I do not have this reactor in my hands... I might change everything I just said if I saw it in person. You could always send it to me and I'll try to make it happen for you!

https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/fittings/schedule-80-pvc/nipples.html?size_in_inches=28

 

[xaflatoonx]

Broadfield - I have the same aquamaxx reactors that you used. But my inlets and outlets are both barbed - so I was confused how you did it as well.

 

[Broadfield]

Broadfield - I have the same aquamaxx reactors that you used. But my inlets and outlets are both barbed - so I was confused how you did it as well.

The Aquamaxx reactors are cake. Simply remove the barbed fittings and save the retaining nuts from each. The inlet uses a "cupped" retaining nut... it's for the acrylic tube to seat into. But it will unthread just like the other one. Then you will purchase two 1/2" PVC adapters to take their place:


https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-005-1-2-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html

You will need to remove the o-rings from the Aquamaxx barbed fittings and transfer them over to these adapters. However, since these adapters will not seat down into the recessed area on the reactor top, you will need an extra o-ring per adapter to take up that extra gap. So you will simply have two o-rings per adapter. The o-rings needed are this size: I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32”

I purchased this kit because it's nice to have o-rings on hand around the house:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Construction

 

[xaflatoonx]

Much thanks Broadfield.
And THATs why you have all those badges

 

[Broadfield]

Much thanks Broadfield.
And THATs why you have all those badges

No problem, glad I could help.

 

[nim6us]

Awesome, thanks!