Help hard plumbing media filter

[xaflatoonx]

Nim6us.

If I were you I would sell the reactors you have and get the aquamaxx ones

 

[oranngetang]

I'm going to drag this oldish thread up for now. Curious on your thoughts as far as running th AQM lids upside down. Also, deadly info in here.

You will need to remove the o-rings from the Aquamaxx barbed fittings and transfer them over to these adapters. However, since these adapters will not seat down into the recessed area on the reactor top, you will need an extra o-ring per adapter to take up that extra gap. So you will simply have two o-rings per adapter. The o-rings needed are this size: I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32”

Regarding the Aquamaxx reactors, I'm beginning a build of my own XL 525 and will be incorporating a lot of the manifold design that Broadfield and Danny1496 have used in their sumps. Ideally I'll be running my gate valves horizontally as Broadfield has with two reactors instead of three. The third valve will run to the ATO chamber as a refugium, with side exit bulkhead draining to the return chamber to prevent any pods from getting sucked into skimmer or bubbletrap screen on their way to the display tank. I'll likely also be running biopellets in one chamber so that return will dump at the skimmer, with other going to return pump chamber and draining through a filter sock to keep any GFO or carbon debris from ending up in sump or display. Additionally I may run 1/2 unions to allow the assembly behind the gate valves to be removable and serviceable outside of the cabinet.

Anyway, while mocking up the 1/2 MPT/slip adapters I found it may be more beneficial to just flip the lids upside down, leaving the recessed nut to be on the underside of the lid and using a single o-ring between the top of lid and adapter fitting. Since the bottom of the lid only requires the tube retention adapter and locking nut to be installed, I can't see this being a problem. When attempting the double o-ring method as explained, I was getting a slight tilt to the tightened fittings, not sitting flush against the lid. With the single o ring against the smooth circular cutouts, they sit perfectly.

I suppose I feel that one o-ring may be more reliable than two as far as leaks go. Additionally a person could use the existing o-rings that came on the barb fittings from aquamaxx, if they're not damaged. I did order the Neiko o-ring set anyway, and they have about three different rings that would work in either application, but I'm not sure they'll be required at this point.

Any foreseeable problems with this method?

Being up in Canada, I don't have easy access to formufit PVC, so it'll be a while before a shipment arrives from the US with parts. Hopefully I found everything I need. Might go buy some standard sch40 white pipe and mock up a temporary manifold to see how I like it before committing to a design with the purple stuff. I had to go with sch40 electrical adapters as I can't seem to source any sch80 connectors as shown anywhere in the country for under $25 a piece... Same problems with unions, $26 or more a piece here, plus shipping. Oddly enough my main supplier reefsupplies stocks the Spears gate valves but no other sch80 pvc hardware. Projects like this can be weeks just getting some pipe I could otherwise go to homedepot in the US for...

 

[oranngetang]

Hopefully tomorrow I can provide my own feedback to whether the upside down lid method works as good as the double o-ring. Some ugly glue marks on this nice purple pipe, but this manifold should work... Fits like a glove under the cabinet, just not certain on reactor exit flow to the skimmer, etc at this point.

 

[oranngetang]

Zero leaks, I feel the single o-ring is the better approach IMO. May allow for more threads to engage as well. Additionally, if you use a sch40 adapter instead of sch80, they may actually sit perfectly square to the the lid, and parallel to each other. Otherwise it may be necessary to shave the side of the fittings to prevent the from pinching.

Hats off to the photos Broadfield and Danny have posted. Both are a major influence on my sump.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Did you have to use an ad

I'm going to drag this oldish thread up for now. Curious on your thoughts as far as running th AQM lids upside down. Also, deadly info in here.



Regarding the Aquamaxx reactors, I'm beginning a build of my own XL 525 and will be incorporating a lot of the manifold design that Broadfield and Danny1496 have used in their sumps. Ideally I'll be running my gate valves horizontally as Broadfield has with two reactors instead of three. The third valve will run to the ATO chamber as a refugium, with side exit bulkhead draining to the return chamber to prevent any pods from getting sucked into skimmer or bubbletrap screen on their way to the display tank. I'll likely also be running biopellets in one chamber so that return will dump at the skimmer, with other going to return pump chamber and draining through a filter sock to keep any GFO or carbon debris from ending up in sump or display. Additionally I may run 1/2 unions to allow the assembly behind the gate valves to be removable and serviceable outside of the cabinet.

Anyway, while mocking up the 1/2 MPT/slip adapters I found it may be more beneficial to just flip the lids upside down, leaving the recessed nut to be on the underside of the lid and using a single o-ring between the top of lid and adapter fitting. Since the bottom of the lid only requires the tube retention adapter and locking nut to be installed, I can't see this being a problem. When attempting the double o-ring method as explained, I was getting a slight tilt to the tightened fittings, not sitting flush against the lid. With the single o ring against the smooth circular cutouts, they sit perfectly.

I suppose I feel that one o-ring may be more reliable than two as far as leaks go. Additionally a person could use the existing o-rings that came on the barb fittings from aquamaxx, if they're not damaged. I did order the Neiko o-ring set anyway, and they have about three different rings that would work in either application, but I'm not sure they'll be required at this point.

Any foreseeable problems with this method?

Being up in Canada, I don't have easy access to formufit PVC, so it'll be a while before a shipment arrives from the US with parts. Hopefully I found everything I need. Might go buy some standard sch40 white pipe and mock up a temporary manifold to see how I like it before committing to a design with the purple stuff. I had to go with sch40 electrical adapters as I can't seem to source any sch80 connectors as shown anywhere in the country for under $25 a piece... Same problems with unions, $26 or more a piece here, plus shipping. Oddly enough my main supplier reefsupplies stocks the Spears gate valves but no other sch80 pvc hardware. Projects like this can be weeks just getting some pipe I could otherwise go to homedepot in the US for...

Did you need to use an adapter from the 1/2” ? I see you have gray on top. I’m using 3/4” piping and have the same media reactor . I was wondering how I can successfully do the same build. Your help is appreciated

 

[jmichaelh7]

From the 1/2” adap

The Aquamaxx reactors are cake. Simply remove the barbed fittings and save the retaining nuts from each. The inlet uses a "cupped" retaining nut... it's for the acrylic tube to seat into. But it will unthread just like the other one. Then you will purchase two 1/2" PVC adapters to take their place:


https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-005-1-2-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html

You will need to remove the o-rings from the Aquamaxx barbed fittings and transfer them over to these adapters. However, since these adapters will not seat down into the recessed area on the reactor top, you will need an extra o-ring per adapter to take up that extra gap. So you will simply have two o-rings per adapter. The o-rings needed are this size: I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32”

I purchased this kit because it's nice to have o-rings on hand around the house:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Construction

from the 1/2 adapter, what part is needed for 3/4 piping? I appreciate it

 

[oranngetang]

From the 1/2” adap

from the 1/2 adapter, what part is needed for 3/4 piping? I appreciate it

3/4 to 1/2 reducer / bushing. Anywhere that sells PVC pipe and couplings will have reducers to change size.

 

[HD_Reefer]

The Aquamaxx reactors are cake. Simply remove the barbed fittings and save the retaining nuts from each. The inlet uses a "cupped" retaining nut... it's for the acrylic tube to seat into. But it will unthread just like the other one. Then you will purchase two 1/2" PVC adapters to take their place:


https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-005-1-2-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html

You will need to remove the o-rings from the Aquamaxx barbed fittings and transfer them over to these adapters. However, since these adapters will not seat down into the recessed area on the reactor top, you will need an extra o-ring per adapter to take up that extra gap. So you will simply have two o-rings per adapter. The o-rings needed are this size: I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32”

I purchased this kit because it's nice to have o-rings on hand around the house:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Construction

I wish I would have found this 2 days ago! Hours of my life and countless different o-ring configurations later, right before I was ready to smash both reactors on the concrete, I stumbled upon your post. I didn't have the exact o-ring you noted, so I used 2 17X2.5 metric rings instead. They were a little tight to stretch on the fitting, but the leaking problem is solved! Thanks a million!

 

[AquaLifeStudio]

The Aquamaxx reactors are cake. Simply remove the barbed fittings and save the retaining nuts from each. The inlet uses a "cupped" retaining nut... it's for the acrylic tube to seat into. But it will unthread just like the other one. Then you will purchase two 1/2" PVC adapters to take their place:


https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/836-005-1-2-schedule-80-pvc-male-adaptor.html

You will need to remove the o-rings from the Aquamaxx barbed fittings and transfer them over to these adapters. However, since these adapters will not seat down into the recessed area on the reactor top, you will need an extra o-ring per adapter to take up that extra gap. So you will simply have two o-rings per adapter. The o-rings needed are this size: I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32”

I purchased this kit because it's nice to have o-rings on hand around the house:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Construction

I just wanted to share our recent ability to modify the Spears 1/2" Pipe Adapter fittings for use with hard plumbing the AquaMaxx Reactors without having to stack o-rings like we've been doing for the past few years. This was possible thanks to our X-Carve Pro CNC.

We reshaped the exterior of the fitting and removed the nut so it can be easily hand tightened and seats within the recessed o-ring area of the reactor lid.

 

[HouseofStark]

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this thread from 2 years ago, but are you guys still running the double oring setup? I originally did this with some luck, but after a few years Im getting a leak due to cracked orings. I was thinking of just replacing the double rings again and moving on, but wanted to see if anyone came up with a better solution. I do like the shaved down "nut" on the coupler, but with my piping already glued and installed, not an option.

 

[LiquidSpace]

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect this thread from 2 years ago, but are you guys still running the double oring setup? I originally did this with some luck, but after a few years Im getting a leak due to cracked orings. I was thinking of just replacing the double rings again and moving on, but wanted to see if anyone came up with a better solution. I do like the shaved down "nut" on the coupler, but with my piping already glued and installed, not an option.

I am interested as well. I’m ready to purchase the Aqua Ready reactor and want to hard plumb it like this, but leaks don’t sound good.